I need gaiters for my 1944 lorry rear axle swivel joints,

[Smallfry]

Does it have to look like the original ?

If not, what about something like a Unimog torque tube seal ? Plenty of images on the net.

 

[500e]

Is @mrsbruce no longer with us ?

 

[OJCar]

Is @mrsbruce no longer with us ?

MrsBruce has not logged into the forum since June 2025.

 

[500e]

Noticed that, is she OK or having a break, nice person whatever

 

[Matchless]

Ok, plan F, I am thinking to machine a male and female mould out of Acetal / Delrin / Nylon / plastic so I can cast them in a two part "rubber" , I need 8 for my truck and a new best friend also needs some so a plaster mould may not last, wood is a possibility but it would need to be close grained, seasoned hard wood, and very messy to turn on my Colchester,

So has anyone got any "nylon" type material, thinking of round bar min 230mm dia and say 60-75mm deep, and a second piece say min 200mm dia and min 60mm deep, happy to pay (a modest amount) plus postage!

 

[Matchless]

This is why they have to be split, and the flanges they fit over,

 

[Agroshield]

...it would need to be close grained, seasoned hard wood

I am not sure wood choice would need to be so restrictive. A stack of MDF might do, cover with a 3mm layer of epoxy or polyester resin, and turn to final profile. Plastic in that size is very expensive, probably very similar in cost to aluminium.

Wood is not messy to turn if you rig up a hoover nozzle near to the tool point.

Do you have a sketch of the profile? How are you to turn the curve on a metal lathe? It might be easier to rig up a tool rest and use some wood turning chisels.

One of the moulds would appear to need to be two piece as the gaiter has a bulge in it. You would have to assemble the outer two piece one over a solid inner one or assemble a collapsible inner one inside a solid outer.

A drawing of the profile would be most useful as then those who do metal casting could tell you what is the best option.

 

[Brad93]

Aluminium would be cheaper than a quality plastic at those sizes

 

[daedalusminos]

The moulds could easily be 3D printed, I've done a fair bit of this.

Generally the liquid rubbers are polyurethane, not particularly strong in tear resistance and vacuum degassing normally required.

 

[Matchless]

I am not sure wood choice would need to be so restrictive. A stack of MDF might do, cover with a 3mm layer of epoxy or polyester resin, and turn to final profile. Plastic in that size is very expensive, probably very similar in cost to aluminium.

Wood is not messy to turn if you rig up a hoover nozzle near to the tool point.

Do you have a sketch of the profile? How are you to turn the curve on a metal lathe? It might be easier to rig up a tool rest and use some wood turning chisels.

One of the moulds would appear to need to be two piece as the gaiter has a bulge in it. You would have to assemble the outer two piece one over a solid inner one or assemble a collapsible inner one inside a solid outer.

A drawing of the profile would be most useful as then those who do metal casting could tell you what is the best option.

I will do a hand sketch, have never mastered CAD, except for the cerial packet and scissors type, I am dyslexic and cannot get past the set up page for Fusion! I don't think the bulge is necessecary or maybe even original as I will not be moving the axles to their full limits, my body will be mounted lower and so I will probably move the bump stops down a bit,

 

[Matchless]

Aluminium would be cheaper than a quality plastic at those sizes

I may look into bonding some MDF into a suitable lump, I don't fancy turning that amount out of an alloy billet, ...............

 

[oldbikedavey]

Aluminium would be cheaper than a quality plastic at those sizes

Might even be cheaper to sandcast the things, out of something of no particular grade of alloy....

 

[Agroshield]

I will do a hand sketch...

If you can make something work with a purely circular arc, that will be a lot easier.

You have to make a concave version and a convex version, both with the same curve, separated by the maybe 3mm thickness of the material (if not the wall thickness will vary). Doing that freehand will be mighty difficult. With a circular curve, a radius turning method will assure the curves are parallel.

 

[Matchless]

Might even be cheaper to sandcast the things, out of something of no particular grade of alloy....

Can you cast something 9 1/2" round with a 4" hole, 3" deep, if so what sort of cost, I have alloy wheels and other alloy scrap suspension parts, some new, best I do a sketch, between nursing duties!

 

[RichardM]

Buy a sheet of MDF and cut it out with a jigsaw, glue / screw together, finish turn in the lathe. Then varnish and polish to seal the mold.

 

[dave h 2]

Buy a sheet of MDF and cut it out with a jigsaw, glue / screw together, finish turn in the lathe. Then varnish and polish to seal the mold.

Wax polish a lot, certainly works for GRP moulding. I painted my moulds with celly hi build primer.

 

[OJCar]

@Matchless
What is the diameter of the axle tube where the gaiter fits?
What is the diameter of the hub carrier where the gaiter fits?
If there is any offset between them how much?
What is the maximum articulation of the hub carrier wrt the axle tube?

 

[Fintray]

Would a Fenaflex coupling be any use?

 

[oldbikedavey]

Can you cast something 9 1/2" round with a 4" hole, 3" deep, if so what sort of cost, I have alloy wheels and other alloy scrap suspension parts, some new, best I do a sketch, between nursing duties!

Volume needs to be below 1.5 litres, ideally.
I'll give you a shout over the next day or so, and have a chat.
As for price, it'll be mates rates, as well you know.....

 

[Dozzer]

@Matchless if you get really stuck, if you can give me all the important dims, i could design & print some moulds, just the cost of the filament as the part is really easy 3D swept volume, shouldn't take more than an hour to design.