Rust converter/direct to rust paints

[BrokenBiker]

Noticed a small section (50mm round) patch of surface rust on the car, paint has flaked off around it but I've wire brushed it back and around it seems solid. Wanting to give it a coat of probably black paint as it's in under the wheel arch so out of site.

Any good products to stop the rust patch growing/coming back? I will sand back to as clean as possible before it gets painted, probably when I do the side steps in a fortnight when I'm off

 

[Cobbler]

If it’s under the car & completely out of sight, I would suggest Hammerite underseal containing Waxoyl. I won’t use any Hammerite paints, but I’ve found their underseal really good & lasts, it stays slightly tacky for a while, but doesn’t come off.

 

[BrokenBiker]

If it’s under the car & completely out of sight, I would suggest Hammerite underseal containing Waxoyl. I won’t use any Hammerite paints, but I’ve found their underseal really good & lasts, it stays slightly tacky for a while, but doesn’t come off.

its in the rear wheel arch so out of site and usually dirty. will have a look see if i can get it locally

 

[MetalMonkey]

Treat it with a phosphoric acid based convertor and some epoxy mastic.

 

[steveo3002]

clean it best you can then epoxy

 

[marlinspike]

There's a few that people like like Fertan and Hydrate 80 but I only use them as a last resort. BH Deox gel is good for getting ridden of pitted rust before using a converter. Epoxy definitely the best primer.

 

[steveo3002]

^ but do you get the benefit of epoxy when its on top of a converter ?

never been impressed with converters myself , unless its a seam or somewhere untouchable then why not give it a try

 

[richie00boy]

Whilst epoxy is undoubtedly the best, for a small bit here and there it's not that convenient to buy and use. I have used Bonda Rust Primer in the past which I've always had good results with (and I've tried many different rust paints).

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Smallfry]

I use No Nonsense red oxide primer from Screwfix. I have found it pretty good.

I do use Fertan if I have the time, at least it looks like it does SOMETHING. I wire brush it off, despite what it says on the instructions. If it truly is a converter, it should have had some effect, but I believe most of the paints cum treatments are an encapsulator , rather than anything else.

 

[arther dailey]

i second no nonsense from screw fix, but apparently they no longer stock it ? need to find original maker and find where its now sold.

 

[steveo3002]

yeah bonda isnt too bad , thats what i used before i found epoxy

agreed epoxy is expensive to get if you just need a dab here n there , BUT since its 2 part it wont go off in the tin so can be used over a few years if you like tinkering with cars etc

 

[GRW]

I've been using Fertan, and once that is cured, been overcoating my Sill & Jack point repairs and painting the cabin steps under the plastic step inserts) with Jotun 90 Epoxy (both on recommendation from Members on here).
Never used an Epoxy before, but it does seem to seal well & water just sits on it or runs off, so hopeful of it being the way to go.

 

[Smallfry]

i second no nonsense from screw fix, but apparently they no longer stock it ? need to find original maker and find where its now sold.

Oh. Thats a bummer. I know it comes from France, but don't know who the manufacturer is.

 

[Onoff]

I am astounded as to how well the box section arch I made for the pub has stood up. The box section had quite a lot of surface rust akin to "car rust".

https://flic.kr/p/2oqKaMe

I bare metalled it all with strip discs in the angle grinder then gave it a wash with phosphoric acid. Rinsed, then did it again and left on to dry. Can't remember if it was the 24 or 48% strength solution. It's not any proprietary rust remover but industrial scale remover.

I've always rated anything with phosphoric in right back from using Jenolite on my Capri in the 80s. It was my Dad's go to.

I finished the arch with rattle can primer filler over my dodgy welding then, again rattle can etch primer before rollered on, Lidl's finest, Baufix black metal paint. Inside, and I think this is important, I shot ACF-50 up all the box sections. I'd do the same with anything car related if I could get behind it.

https://flic.kr/p/2oydggR

https://flic.kr/p/2oyokr9