What mig under £150

[rallynut]

I have an old suzuki jimny that needs a bit welding. Quite thin panels.
What would you guys recommend I don't want to spend a load and can't see myself using it for much more than this Jimny maybe use to weld a nut of a snapped off stud at some point.

Is this a good machine, I want gasless I know results won't be as good but will do for me

Professional 140A Gasless MIG, TIG and MMA 3-in-1 Welder Non Live Torch model 230V No Gas with Mask & Welding Wire

This model has 3 functions, working as MIG, TIG and MMA welding PRODUCT NAME; * 140 Welder 140A With Accessories. For greater welding control the wire is only live when trigger is used Cheaper models have permanent live feed wire making it difficult to set the wire in the correct starting...

dirtyprotools.co.uk

 

[Mark 5]

I have an old suzuki jimny that needs a bit welding. Quite thin panels.
What would you guys recommend I don't want to spend a load and can't see myself using it for much more than this Jimny maybe use to weld a nut of a snapped off stud at some point.

Is this a good machine, I want gasless I know results won't be as good but will do for me

Your link generated a Fake Site Warning.

 

[eddie49]

Hello and welcome to the Forum.

I have one of those funny little boxes....!
It is actually a surprisingly good machine. It offers a lot of features in a very small, light, and very cheap package, being the size of a shoebox and costing 100 Quid. It has a short permanently-attached torch, not a Euro-torch, but that does have a narrow gas shroud, which is good for access into confined spaces.
When using flux-core gasless wire, the shroud can be removed anyway.
It is a synergic MIG. This means that both the DC output voltage and the wire speed are controlled by a single dial, which is calibrated from 0.5mm to an optimistic 5mm of material thickness. The pre-programmed wirespeed/voltage ratio is quite accurate and usable, but it can also be fine-tuned or "trimmed" with a -1 / 0 / +1 voltage control. In addition. the welder has full manual control, with dials for wirespeed and volts. In case you get fed up with the shabby results of gasless and take the plunge into getting a proper gas cylinder, this welder can do both gasless and gas.
It can also be used for Arc ( MMA ) welding. This option allows thick material, such as chassis, angle iron, shelf brackets, engine stands, etc. to be welded using stick electrodes.

 

[Jackimus]

None

But honestly, I've heard good things about that machine you linked and also the Parkside machine from Lidl which was I think £75 the last time it was in stores?

I almost got a Dirty Pro myself but decided to make more of an investment - ordered a SIP Weldmate, heard horror stories immediately after pressing purchase, cancelled it, wanted to save up for the R-Tech 180, ended up getting a great deal on a used machine on here.

Keep an eye on that used section!!

 

[bourbon]

Welcome to the forum. Remember to budget for gloves, auto darkening mask (game changer) Maybe a grinder, Get some steel to practice with, before you even think about attacking the car.

 

[Jackimus]

In fact, Machine Mart are currently having a price crash on welders and a couple of welding masks, go check that out. You can't go wrong with Clarke!

 

[rallynut]

Cheers guys for the fast replies, sounds quite positive then, will also have a quick look at Machine Mart I have a auto darkening mask and gloves so all good there

 

[bourbon]

In fact, Machine Mart are currently having a price crash on welders and a couple of welding masks, go check that out. You can't go wrong with Clarke!

thanks for that. I've been on holiday for a week and didn't know that!!!

 

[winchman]

Up until we bought an Rtek we had a few different brands, all bought ether spares or repairs or just cheap used.
A better machine is worth the money as other wise its 50% of the time welding the other 50% fixing it!
A good used mig could weld the vehicle then be sold again so basically free

 

[BrokenBiker]

What part of Wales are you in?

 

[rallynut]

Hi guys, just received this, so looking to have a play I have 1mm sheet steel and 2mm to hand.
What settings do you recommend is a good base to start from glasless mig

 

[eddie49]

Use your 2mm steel first, just laying straight beads, then lap, butt, and fillet joints later, and after that try the 1mm.

Set the buttons for MIG, Flux, and Synergic.
Start with the Voltage Trim dial at Zero ( i.e. centred ), later try Plus and Minus to see the effect.
Turn the right-hand Current dial to 2mm and off you go!

( On my machine it actually has to be set higher to get good penetration, e.g. set at 2.5mm )

N.B. With fluxcore, the torch should be plugged in to the negative and the work return cable & clamp ( "Earth Clamp" ) to the positive socket.

 

[rallynut]

What part of Wales are you in?

West Wales

 

[BrokenBiker]

Hi guys, just received this, so looking to have a play I have 1mm sheet steel and 2mm to hand.
What settings do you recommend is a good base to start from glasless mig

thicker steel is the ideal starting point.

3mm or above if you can. gasless runs hot as it is, trying to learn to use it on 1mm is just asking for a headache. i use it in my mig at the moment as i cant be bothered to go get another bottle of gas and even on 2mm with a relatively good quality welder and 15 years experience it can still get away from you if you arent paying attention.

you want to be able to get steel thick enough that blowing holes isnt a concern, that way you can focus on things like arc length, travel speed and figuring out the settings and what not.