VW Beetle Class 11 Build

[John_aero]

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2023 8:53 am Post subject: The Irish Bug
Good morning, this is a topic I have on another site however taught maybe of interest to people on here too. Sadly this project started 2 years ago and I am only getting back to it now. So far I have tack welded in the new heater channel, rear patch panels and will start work on front quarter next. It was a gift from my dad to Mam for here 50th as they always had a beetle when were younger. So after 3 years sitting idle taking up space, the beetle was transferred over to me and parents agreed its better let me make a project out of it rather than sit doing nothing. Mam was happy let em do what ever i wanted, Dad wanted it stock and kept vintage. So first points: 1 - Body bracing, father in law says leave doors in, he has rebuilt a good few beetles and getting lot advice off him. I was going to take doors off once i know body is free from pans and then weld in some braces before fully lifting it off. 2 - Body repairs. The car was restored 17-20 years ago, however there is some rust where i think the restorer just fitted int he small pin holes instead welding them. Then rust got worse. The whole underside was "shutz'd" and I think this is what saved it from serious rust while in the machinic's field. So i know the following is required 1 - Repair to front nose where old body filler fell off with hammer and rotten through 2 - Left side arch has same, rusted hole where filler was put in. I hope its not gone into the pillars as same me some work. 3 - Loads small paint bubbles, specilly down the pillars where heater hoses go. If luck is on my side these are just minor bubbles and i dont need to weld in here. 4 - Few area surface rust where water lodges, around seals and bonnet lids. So what do I hope to achieve. Future Discussion points and thinking points - Adventure bug in the class 11 style. We don't have places to race bugs here and I want this to be a my backup car when don't want use my motorcycle - Lift suspension - Bigger tyres of course - May even look led lights instead bulbs - Custom tube bumpers instead original ones - No side steps, maybe fit a long tube as a crash/bump bar to protect side of pans - Roof rack or some form spare tyre storage - Make sure nothing isn't reversible. So not going chop the hell out of the body work. - IRS suspension conversion. - Roll cage, don't need one really but a simple 4 point one might help in a crash as added support - Not sure what exhaust to fit - 1300 twin port engine (dad thinks this is a new one from brazil) might build it to a 1600 as the engine was stamped as a 1600 and re stamped as a 1300 from factory. Looks like a 1600 with 1300 barrels.

 

[MysterG]

Love the look of what you are planning

 

[John_aero]

Love the look of what you are planning

Cheers, ya essentially making a hatchback into an SUV

 

[John_aero]

Also all hidden areas with any surface rust i have cleaned and then treated with Fertan before closing them in

 

[Gareth J]

Looks like not too crusty an example. And that you're starting a tidy job.

Regarding the doors/body bracing, before you fully weld the a pillars, it might be worth putting the body back on the pans and the doors back in, then checking door alignment. Now's the time to make adjustments to get door gaps as nice as possible.

The beetle I did, I made braces that were adjustable so I could line everything up as best as possible before committing to welding in the A pillars. However, yours looks a lot more in one piece than mine was so hopefully things aren't so far off as it was.

 

[John_aero]

What I did notice as it sat for 2 years with braces in hat to use a ratchet strap to pull them in slightly to allow heat channel fit.

The rust is minor but so many small bits its easier i feel just replace full front quarters. Otherwise be a multitude of patches joined up.

I have measure up the gaps so before front pillar is fully welded ill remeasure the gaps.

The Lower rotisserie bars are drilled to match the original heater channels. so all i did was line up the new ones using the original mounting holes.

 

[John_aero]

didn't realise i hadn't shown the rotisserie

Its an old pic before i cut everything out. Can see the lower steels where heaters were bolted onto. I then cut out old heater and put new ones in using original hole locations to fix them in place

 

[John_aero]

Anyway did some work on the front 1/4. not a perfect fit so will need more tweaking.

Need get the bonnet down from attic and refit it to see how well it lines up. If gaps are good i will cleco the 1/4 into place and done some more checks before welding it up.

 

[John_aero]

Well got quarter panel tacked in.

Next is the nose section. Once hapy will then fully weld it all in and work ont he center section.

Slow pace but its progress. Everytime i touch it i find another tiny rust patch

Also fitted (but forgot to screw in) a stainless exhaust repair section for the heater channel uprights

Everything was hit with weld through primes. All areas were treated with Fertan a week ago to kill any rust before priming)

 

[Migmac]

Nice project, I do like a Beetle

 

[Gareth J]

Jees, the heater channel offerings nowadays are so ugly. Make sure you attempt to treat them internally.

Poo tye bonnet on too at various points when fitting up the front. Welding the front clip on to mine pulled it a bit and now the bonnets a bit tight to shut.

 

[John_aero]

Jees, the heater channel offerings nowadays are so ugly. Make sure you attempt to treat them internally.

Poo tye bonnet on too at various points when fitting up the front. Welding the front clip on to mine pulled it a bit and now the bonnets a bit tight to shut.

I have it one to check as I go. So far gaps are equally on both sides.

Ya and these were the better channels from research

I spray inside it with primer every time I weld..

I have the 12" straws with 360deg head on that goes into a spray can. That way can feed it in through few holes and treat it once finished

 

[John_aero]

The offerings In the states are but better and come with a proper treatment

However makes little or no difference when weld it as burns off. Need treat it again post welding

 

[John_aero]

Plan is also leave a few opening with rubber covers in the heaters at pillars where rust. That was I can open to inspect them. Also can take covers off andet any moisture dry out instead rotting them

 

[Gareth J]

When finished, I sealed all gaps I could and filled with diluted cavity wax and sloshed around as best as is possible in a 1200 beetle. Then drained.

 

[John_aero]

When finished, I sealed all gaps I could and filled with diluted cavity wax and sloshed around as best as is possible in a 1200 beetle. Then drained.

i hope do same. beetle is on a rotisserie so can get a nice side to side rotation

Ill be opening up some the closed areas to spray wax in when its all done.

Bit like a small inspection panel and then can open it when ever i want.

Was thinking doing one at the rear of each heater, a circular panel sealed closed but can pru it open if wanted each year

 

[John_aero]

Back into it again today

The second heater channel is a little bit more of a fiddle to fit as not using new pillar posts so trying make old ones fit. Might be easier cut out old part weld in new on as guaranteed fit.

Rear is also in a lot worse condition, looks like had a bad dent in the corner and about 1/4" bondo over it.

 

[Gareth J]

Was thinking doing one at the rear of each heater, a circular panel sealed closed but can pru it open if wanted each year

I'd be more inclined to fit a plate held on with captive nuts/bolts. But bear in mind that you probably shouldn't, from a historic status or mot/roadworthiness perspective. (As mad as that sounds)

Also worth bearing in mind that, in spite of the greatest intentions, you'll probably never look in there again!

Back into it again today

The second heater channel is a little bit more of a fiddle to fit as not using new pillar posts so trying make old ones fit. Might be easier cut out old part weld in new on as guaranteed fit.

Rear is also in a lot worse condition, looks like had a bad dent in the corner and about 1/4" bondo over it.

If it's easier to make fit/work, if the original pillar to channel joints are sound, you could leave the originals in situ and replace the bottom portion of the channel there.

Like a madman, when I did mine, I repaired the lower 1-2" of channel all the way around instead of buying replacement channels. I was time rich but cash poor.

 

[John_aero]

I'd be more inclined to fit a plate held on with captive nuts/bolts. But bear in mind that you probably shouldn't, from a historic status or mot/roadworthiness perspective. (As mad as that sounds)

Also worth bearing in mind that, in spite of the greatest intentions, you'll probably never look in there again!


If it's easier to make fit/work, if the original pillar to channel joints are sound, you could leave the originals in situ and replace the bottom portion of the channel there.

Like a madman, when I did mine, I repaired the lower 1-2" of channel all the way around instead of buying replacement channels. I was time rich but cash poor.

Agree with keeping original, replaced the left lower pillar as it was rotten, right side is lot better (only a small bit that rusted on inside) and trying keep it and fit new heater in. so there is a lot tweaking and adjusting to get the new &old to mate up.

I am fitting all new heaters so its the interface between them and old pillars.

slow but will ge there.