Stihl Ms 361 straight piped by itself

[Norsk]

Apparently they are not they look fine to me

I'm tempted but it's kinda hard to do that...
There's no spark arrestor for sure on mine, but the internal baffle is pretty complex to remove cause the muffler is not welded but the sheet metal is bent around one each other of the two halves of muffler.
So it's going to be a PITA to remove it .
Although it would be great for the ignition module as it seems that if you don't let the saw idling for at least 30 second before to shoot it off, it will fail.
At least that's what I've read here and there on the net.
I've already ported my little Jonsered and she was a little beast for having 40cc only (it was born as 36cc but I've put an husky 140 cylinder in it)

Yes I think they are two actually, one on each side of the heat shield

Cut the front of the muffler in a square "U" shape. Cut the baffle out,you likely have a spark arrester but maybe not,they are a type of heavy gauze.

Bend the flap back so it forms a type of chute,use the baffle as material to cover each side of the chute as you weld it in. Blank off the original exhaust hole.

There always seem to be a few types of muffler for each saw,its been yonks since I used a 361 but that's how we used to do 361,044,046 back in the day.

Sounds peculiar re your ignition module,I have honestly never heard of that but your saw is getting on a bit

 

[mtt.tr]

Just tighten it back it back up.

They do occasionally fall off

 

[Memmeddu]

Cut the front of the muffler in a square "U" shape. Cut the baffle out,you likely have a spark arrester but maybe not,they are a type of heavy gauze.

At this point I might even cut the rear cause it's more of a flat ish surface, it's hidden behind so it wouldn't be seen outside.

Bend the flap back so it forms a type of chute,use the baffle as material to cover each side of the chute as you weld it in. Blank off the original exhaust hole.

I can't understand exactly this passage.
Why should I blank the original exhaust outlet

Sounds peculiar re your ignition module,I have honestly never heard of that but your saw is getting on a bit

I've read about that on the Arborist Forum when I've got it.
What's happens it's that somehow if exposed too much to heat they'll drop the rev limiter (Wich is 14000rmp OEM) sometimes to 10000 RPMs still usable I believe some others to 4500 RPMs which is just embarrassing
I'm pretty sure my saw has a rev limited ignition module.
Cause it would not go over 14000 RPMs no matter what but honestly it reaches 14500 RPMs and does the spark hard cut no matter what.
Now it reaches 13500 RPMs with the 25" bar but that's its maximum bar and chain length capacity

 

[Memmeddu]

The C coil kits are great quality and worth the £ IMO

I was looking at them I'll probably going to try them out

 

[Kram]

I was thinking about that option too but V-coil are pretty expensive I'm buying them as I need them
Unfortunately they don't sell the taps only otherwise I'll be fully covered already

This sort

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0963LBSSY

My set was £18 a few years ago. I have used it many times since.

 

[JOEPRO]

This sort

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0963LBSSY

My set was £18 a few years ago. I have used it many times since.

Those generic kits can be hit and miss quality wise. V coil are very good quality I moved away from the generic kit and have been slowly building up my V coil kits as I need them

 

[Memmeddu]

This sort

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0963LBSSY

My set was £18 a few years ago. I have used it many times since.

Those generic kits can be hit and miss quality wise. V coil are very good quality I moved away from the generic kit and have been slowly building up my V coil kits as I need them

I've got a V-COIL set in M6x1, they are very good quality made by Völkel.
And I'm now getting the M5 size.
As @JOEPRO I'm slowly building up my set .
We use them at work, as well as Helicoil.
We have odd sizes like CC Life M14x1.25 and Recoil M12x1.5, they work but honestly I'm a machinist, I already use enough garbage at work I won't get stuff that might not work, as happened to dig out a coil cause it snapped while inserting it place and has not been a pleasant job to do cause the thing elongated through the threads and essentially got stuck in there

 

[Kram]

In what sense? Have you had the coils break in use or corrode excessively?

I mentioned in a previous thread, theres a trick to inserting them. If you wind them in fast, the tension will wind them up like a spring and it'll get small enough to jump the threads. When i insert them, I release the tension every half turn or so, so it can fully expand, and prevent any thread jumps.

 

[JOEPRO]

In what sense? Have you had the coils break in use or corrode excessively?

I mentioned in a previous thread, theres a trick to inserting them. If you wind them in fast, the tension will wind them up like a spring and it'll get small enough to jump the threads. When i insert them, I release the tension every half turn or so, so it can fully expand, and prevent any thread jumps.

The cheap sets just dont have much precision - they can come undone too easily. Also, the tabs can be difficult to knock off sometimes removing the coil before they break. Whereas on the V coil no such issue.

Anyways- enough said on it. People choose what they wish and works for them

 

[Memmeddu]

In what sense? Have you had the coils break in use or corrode excessively?

I mentioned in a previous thread, theres a trick to inserting them. If you wind them in fast, the tension will wind them up like a spring and it'll get small enough to jump the threads. When i insert them, I release the tension every half turn or so, so it can fully expand, and prevent any thread jumps.

It snapped while putting it in, cause the coil jumped a tread halfway in.
A nightmare cause it was a blind hole big enough fortunately but it has been a PITA cause I couldn't damage the threads, it was a one attempt only type of repair, you do it wrong you're going to throw the part in the scrap bin

Edit I've read you mentioned the thread jump problem.
V-Coil and genuine Helicoil are bigger than the tap hole so it will not wound off

 

[Kram]

Nope that is 100% user error. You cant blame that on the coils.

Drill and tap some test holes and try what I said, and winding it in as quick as you can. The same will happen with v coil and helicoil brands

 

[Memmeddu]

Nope that is 100% user error. You cant blame that on the coils.

Drill and tap some test holes and try what I said, and winding it in as quick as you can. The same will happen with v coil and helicoil brands

I don't know sounds weird cause they usually go in easily.
They are coils so they shrink winding them clockwise, when you're installing.
They get stuck in cause they expand if turned counterclockwise.
Don't take me wrong your method makes sense.
I don't think my "accident" happened because of that.
Most likely happened due to a faulty coil or mismatching pitch (maybe picked up an put back in the wrong place)