Thanks Everyone,

[redwine300]

Not much in the way of welding I'm afraid. What with the damp weather and the family being unwell, I could only spend a limited time in the garage. I have had some rusty items that are needed to re assemble the front bumper etc' that were in need of some attention, so i turned my efforts to them in the little time i had available.
Once I had removed the old paint with elbow grease and paint stripper, I followed up with Bilt-Hamber rust treatment. As soon as that had worked it's magic i set about getting the primer on. Only managed to top coat 1 piece before time run out, but it did give me a chance to do some masking off for the first time.
Back to cutting and welding the other rear arch soon, Promise

 

[Will1983]

nice work mate, i always love seeing old manky bits cleaned up and repainted to look like new!

 

[Will1983]

just out of interest what paints did you use for this?

 

[redwine300]

Hit a really low point today,
Decided to get started on the near side rear arch, wish i hadn't bothered.
I new it would need work, but did not anticipate just how much. I am a little unsure as to how to tackle it to be honest, being close to the fuel filler pipe makes me a little nervous to say the least, especially as it is in the bl**dy way!
My first thoughts are to remove the filler pipe completely, but this leaves with at least 2 major problems,
(1) gaping hole in fuel tank.
(2) I need to move the car under it's own steam each time I work on her.
I know I will have to figure it out one way or another but would seriously appreciate thoughts and advice from anyone who has previously tackled a similar task.
If I get this wrong with regards to a fire I will be devastated to say the least.
Sorry Will1983, I forgot to note the paints you asked about. I'll post them next time.

 

[keith19]

Redwine, if that white metal we see is the side of the tank, and that gaping hole we see is the entry hole into the tank, you really have no alternative to draining and dropping the tank, let alone the pipe. There is no way you can work that close safely. In the old days we would have tried to shove a thick sheet of steel or alloy between the outer skin and the tank in your situation, but I would not advise it. A proper resto should see the tank dropped and its brackets inspected and repaired/replaced anyway.

I've seen some odd things done to avoid moving tanks, because often they hide more rust to be repaired, and I've seen them covered in asbestos (!) fire sheets when welding nearby. The mercifully few times I've welded near them my hair stood on end, like working near an unexploded bomb. Talk about heightened awareness! The Maharishi had nothing on me welding near a petrol tank!

Figure a way to remove it safely after draining it, and take it away someplace down the garden, covered up securely from kids and weather. Then take your time and continue to make a good restoration. The bits we can't see are often more important than the bits we can see, and I've rarely dropped a petrol tank without finding more to do under there.

Cheer up, you've done exceptionally well so far; continue to do the job properly, and you'll thank yourself when its done.

 

[redwine300]

Keith19, I think my initial photo's are a bit misleading with regards to the filler pipe. the pictures I have previously uploaded are of the filler cap end adjoining the inner wing with the rubber grommet removed. The white area is the outside of the rear wing. I have taken a few more pictures from a little further back to show a more realistic position of the fuel tank entry end.

I wondered if it was a safe alternative to make a blanking disk at the same point using the the same fixing where the pipe meets the tank? thus giving me clear access to the arch and sealing off the tank at the same time? I guess venting might be a problem though?
All that said, I have to agree with all that you have said. I guess I am just trying to kid myself, and I take your point. if it is worth doing, it may as well be done right. I will have to get my mind right with respect to removing the tank etc' Many Thanks.
While I was getting over my "toys out of the pram" moment, I tackled a bit of the lower arch while I got my head around the inevitability of the tank coming out.

By the way Will1983, added a picture of some more painted bits along with the paints I've been using.

 

[keith19]

Hi Redwine,

Thanks for the recent pics, makes it much clearer, and doesn't look so bad as I thought.

Nonetheless, might be a good idea to drop the tank if possible, disconnecting the filler/vent pipes from their brackets and wiggling them down and out underneath. Parts of the tank might be rusty too, and those pipes look like they could do with derusting carefully, and maybe 'cold weld' metal/resin mix coating on to help preserve what metal is left.

Don't forget most of that excellent work you've done so far is the more glamorous part of the job, it's been done well and looks good, and will be seen by everyone. There's always quite a lot of work underneath that has to be good, but is never seen by anyone but you and the MOT mechanic. But it's good to know, when you're bombing along the road, that it's been done properly as well.

Know how you feel about the tank job. Even now there's certain jobs on vehicles I have to 'psyche myself up' to do. Usually the more unpleasant ones which lurk underneath. I don't have room for a rollover rig, or the cash, but years ago I bought a proper high lift welder's jack, and some commercial axle stands. These help a lot because the front, rear, or even the side of a car can be lifted really high so you can sit or kneel to cut or weld instead of lying down and getting burnt (been there, done that!).

Take your time, figure out how the tank's coming out, where to store it safely, etc before you start. Figure if you might need a mate to give a hand for some parts of the job. Always safer to have a mate around when you're working underneath, dismantling stuff.

You've done great stuff so far, probably the best resto on here. Keep up the good work!

 

[Chickenjohn]

I would second the advice to drop the tank as you are welding close to the area. You can always get help to push the car while it is immobile. ANd I agree- carefully de-rust the pipes and see what you are left with. Best to strip it all out and do the job properly while you are in there!

Also, I'm impressed you are welding in the snow as well!!!! This cold weather makes me think twice even about getting out in the garage.

 

[Sphinx]

You've come this far, dropping the tank is the least of your problems!
I understand it's a pain if you need to be able to move the car and it is a bit daunting removing something that big but you're obviously very capable at these things so stop worrying and just crack on sometimes it's best to not over-think things (I do it a LOT!).

When you say you need to be able to move the car uinder it's own power, I take it your drive is on a slop or something so it's tricky to move in and out of the garage without driving it?
This might sound crazy but if the wife and kids can't help push it (understandable) could you rig up some kind of ratchet and pulley in the garage?

 

[katbloke]

keep it up mate, i need to crack on with mine this year too, time to learn the thin metal technique

 

[redwine300]

Having read through the recent comments and given it some serious thought,
I have to say I agree with you all.
The tank will be coming out. As you say,
I have come this far, lets do it right.
I suppose I felt I was nearing completion and did not want to go back wards but I was wrong.
After all, it's been 3 years since I started the project so what is a couple of more months? I am just eager to drive the bl**dy thing again.
That said, I have started to re build what I can until the day comes when I have to remove the tank.
There is a little more rust this side so I should be busy for the time being. I will figure out what is entailed as regards removing the tank as I go.

 

[WindWalker]

You've really got the hang of this restoration lark now redwine

Good move regarding dropping the tank, you know it makes sense

Just think of the summer sun to come, the open road and no nagging doubt in the back of your mind about what lurks beneath

 

[Chickenjohn]

Redwine, I'm truly impressed by your workmanship and attitude! Keep us posted, I for one will be keeping an eye on your posts.

 

[keith19]

Some nice delicate work there, Redwine, all properly done. We're proud of ya!

 

[redwine300]

I know what you mean WindWalker,
Things do seem to be getting easier and as you say, "Bring on the summer" hope I get her ready in time.
Cheers Chickenjohn,
To receive such praise is truly motivating, lets hope I continue to impress.
Keith19.
Thanks also for your praise, I know sometimes my attention to detail will not be seen once covered by subsequent panels, but where they are visible I feel makes a big difference. I drive myself mad trying to match every radii and curve.
I made some good progress today, Diving in and out of the weather.
I know I have touched on this before, but I maintained my attention to placing the welder so as to give a smooth curve when welding at different areas. remarkable difference.
Although I was welding outside, I even manged to reduce the gas flow without affecting the weld.
I think I am getting close to welding continuously rather than the stitch approach, may try it on an easy section next.

 

[Sphinx]

Awesome!

I mean, mango.

 

[Chickenjohn]

Redwine, don't worry about trying to weld continuously on car bodywork. I only know of one welder who can do this on thin steel, at high power with good penetration, without blowing through and he has been a professional welder and fabricator for 30 years!!! Tack it in as you are and run at most one inch of continuous weld. That minimises the danger of the steel warping which may happen if you put too much heat into bodywork at one time. The welding you are doing now looks very neat and strong, so if it aint broke.........

It is only gas welding that I'm happy to do longer continuous welds on, but then gas welding leaves no filler wire in the weld (or very little) and is a much softer weld than mig so the distortion can be planished down again.

 

[anto]

Once the tank has been dropped can you not rig up a temporary tank from some plastic container to allow you to move the car?

Ive done this on a diesel, perhaps its not possible on a petrol?

Your project is very well done, id love to tackle my own car this way i just wouldnt have the time between work and other commitments.

Keep up the good work!

 

[schnappi]

I'd love to tackle my own car this way i just wouldnt have the time between work and other commitments.

Let me guess... You're married.

 

[anto]

haha, no, not married yet but i do have a girlfriend who takes up a lot of time.
Between her and all the sport i play it leaves very little time for my hobbies.
Saturday is about the extent of getting any hobby time!