Battery drop testers

[fizzy]

I've watched them put a mould between the adjacent cell terminals then melt lead into it to connect them.

Some of @gaz1 youtube videos show that as well. Casting new terminals in place. Awesome.

 

[fizzy]

Richmand Services (with an a). Think they are Newport based

Tried ringing they called me back. Will get an engineer to pop in. I warned them I am broke they said never mind

 

[Turbo]

I've watched them put a mould between the adjacent cell terminals then melt lead into it to connect them.

We used a hole saw without the pilot drill to cut the lead links off the battery posts then used plumbers solder to reconnect them.

 

[Melvyn Best]

I've watched them put a mould between the adjacent cell terminals then melt lead into it to connect them.

They would also recast the terminal posts

 

[zzr1200]

I've watched them put a mould between the adjacent cell terminals then melt lead into it to connect them.

We used to use a spring electrode holder with a short cable and a cheap earth clamp, > earth clamp one of the cells terminal, a carbon rod held in the electrode holder, then short the carbon rod to the other terminal and fill/melt/solder the other terminal connection with lead. Reverse the connections and solder the other terminal/strap link with the battery cells own power/voltage.......

 

[Turbo]

We used to use a spring electrode holder with a short cable and a cheap earth clamp, > earth clamp one of the cells terminal, a carbon rod held in the electrode holder, then short the carbon rod to the other terminal and fill/solder the other terminal connection with lead. Reverse the connections and solder the other terminal/strap link with the battery cells own power/voltage.......

As a bit of fun we tried stick welding using a pallet truck battery. It sort of worked but didn't have enough amps to hold an arc.

 

[zzr1200]

As a bit of fun we tried stick welding using a pallet truck battery. It sort of worked but didn't have enough amps to hold an arc.

Use a forklift battery 48 volts+.......

I was once called to a FOER 9 4500lbs lift, operator didn't put the battery covers on properly the covers shorted the battery pack, melted the metal covers set fire to the seat and destroyed the battery cells.

A complete new battery, a set of metal battery covers, a seat and some battery cable, worked out to be about £2500.00 , but that was back in 1985. So would be considerably more today...

 

[knighty]

if the batteries haven't needed filling then they defiantly haven't been charging properly

 

[fizzy]

if the batteries haven't needed filling then they defiantly haven't been charging properly

Well it was fine for years. Not a lot of use mind. Say 1 charge every 3 months. Cells bubbling like crazy but never had to top them up. Until now.

 

[knighty]

Well it was fine for years. Not a lot of use mind. Say 1 charge every 3 months. Cells bubbling like crazy but never had to top them up. Until now.

the batteries were probably slowly dying, just didn't use it enough to notice

do you leave them on the charger? best to leave it plugged in when you're not using it, charger should keep them at float voltage

 

[fizzy]

the batteries were probably slowly dying, just didn't use it enough to notice

do you leave them on the charger? best to leave it plugged in when you're not using it, charger should keep them at float voltage

No but never let the batteries drop be4low 20% charge.

 

[zzr1200]

Fizzy, my method for testing traction batteries:-

1. Top up and fully charge the batteries overnight and allow battery to degas/settle.

2. I then used to draw the layout of the battery pack, and record the 4 readings in each cell in order.

3. Check and record each cell voltage/sg reading, before the "on load" test.

4. Now check and record the cell voltages on full load (max lift/hydraulic relief pressure valve open for at least 3 to 4 seconds for each cell or until the voltage stops falling).

5. Recheck sg readings and record.

Now compare your figures:-

The "off load cell voltages" should be above 2.2+ volts (certainly 2.0) ideally after charging with an sg reading of 1280/1300 (lowest 1250)

While on load testing, cell voltage should stay about 1.8/1.9 volts, 1.6/1.7 volts absolute min, if it drops below this the cell is dead/replace.



If you have good/fair voltages, but with low sg readings, you could have the electrolyte liquid sg adjusted/replaced, which would help depending on the other readings for that cell.

show these figures to the battery tech....


Depending on the latest specs used for lead cell technology (I've been out of this side of the game for several years), this will give you a good basic idea of where your battery is condition wise.

 

[fizzy]

Fizzy, my method for testing traction batteries:-

1. Top up and fully charge the batteries overnight and allow battery to degas/settle.

2. I then used to draw the layout of the battery pack, and record the 4 readings in each cell in order.

3. Check and record each cell voltage/sg reading, before the "on load" test.

4. Now check and record the cell voltages on full load (max lift/hydraulic relief pressure valve open for at least 3 to 4 seconds for each cell or until the voltage stops falling).

5. Recheck sg readings and record.

Now compare your figures:-

The "off load cell voltages" should be above 2.2+ volts (certainly 2.0) ideally after charging with an sg reading of 1280/1300 (lowest 1250)

While on load testing, cell voltage should stay about 1.8/1.9 volts, 1.6/1.7 volts absolute min, if it drops below this the cell is dead/replace.



If you have good/fair voltages, but with low sg readings, you could have the electrolyte liquid sg adjusted/replaced, which would help depending on the other readings for that cell.

show these figures to the battery tech....


Depending on the latest specs used for lead cell technology (I've been out of this side of the game for several years), this will give you a good basic idea of where your battery is condition wise.

Thanks for that. Voltages all checked. Will dig out the hydrometer next.
Funny to think these batteries are still in use in most cars around the World and yet first came out in 1860. Not bad for 165 years old

 

[zzr1200]

Thanks for that. Voltages all checked. Will dig out the hydrometer next.
Funny to think these batteries are still in use in most cars around the World and yet first came out in 1860. Not bad for 165 years old

You can't beat Old School Tech, just like old machines.....

 

[fizzy]

You can't beat Old School Tech, just like old machines.....

My 1932 surface grinder is sp accurate i can't measure any changes. Even down to 5 decimal places

 

[zzr1200]

Will dig out the hydrometer next.

Use a decent one.....

 

[GRW]

Fizzy, my method for testing traction batteries:-

1. Top up and fully charge the batteries overnight and allow battery to degas/settle.

2. I then used to draw the layout of the battery pack, and record the 4 readings in each cell in order.

3. Check and record each cell voltage/sg reading, before the "on load" test.

4. Now check and record the cell voltages on full load (max lift/hydraulic relief pressure valve open for at least 3 to 4 seconds for each cell or until the voltage stops falling).

5. Recheck sg readings and record.

Now compare your figures:-

The "off load cell voltages" should be above 2.2+ volts (certainly 2.0) ideally after charging with an sg reading of 1280/1300 (lowest 1250)

While on load testing, cell voltage should stay about 1.8/1.9 volts, 1.6/1.7 volts absolute min, if it drops below this the cell is dead/replace.



If you have good/fair voltages, but with low sg readings, you could have the electrolyte liquid sg adjusted/replaced, which would help depending on the other readings for that cell.

show these figures to the battery tech....


Depending on the latest specs used for lead cell technology (I've been out of this side of the game for several years), this will give you a good basic idea of where your battery is condition wise.

I used to make up charts in box layout for recording off-grid pack values in much the same way.
The post-charge cell volts and SG's should all be pretty close.... but if you have a duff cell the volts & SG might well be lower from the off (or youll see a higher voltage on yhe other celks as they overcharge to bringthe overall pack volts up to Float volts... but if not putting a load on will quickly reveal the duff un, as the volts on that cell will plummet fast.
Normal full charge about 2.4vdc per cell. (Equalise Charge about 2.58v/cell
Really you don't want to discharge below 1.8vdc per cell I'd say on traction Lead-Acid.
SG's are harder to know as some packs seem happier at lower SG than others- you just won't get them up to 12+. Again it's them being even as well as a reasonable value that seems the best indicator IMO

 

[zzr1200]

I used to make up charts in box layout for recording off-grid pack values in much the same way.
The post-charge cell volts and SG's should all be pretty close.... but if you have a duff cell the volts & SG might well be lower from the off (or youll see a higher voltage on yhe other celks as they overcharge to bringthe overall pack volts up to Float volts... but if not putting a load on will quickly reveal the duff un, as the volts on that cell will plummet fast.
Normal full charge about 2.4vdc per cell. (Equalise Charge about 2.58v/cell
Really you don't want to discharge below 1.8vdc per cell I'd say on traction Lead-Acid.
SG's are harder to know as some packs seem happier at lower SG than others- you just won't get them up to 12+. Again it's them being even as well as a reasonable value that seems the best indicator IMO

The last time I really talked to our Exide traction battery guy in depth (2000-ish) he said "Exide" were testing some new formulation plate pastes, that they expected to work with sg's of 1350 to 1400, I never saw those cells, we did have a couple of others sets of "Test Batteries" on loan for a while...

Also had a mate who worked in quality control for Exide Batteries in Chequers Lane, Dagenham.

 

[knighty]

No but never let the batteries drop be4low 20% charge.

20% is a bit low, they're best left/kept fully charged... if you don't want to charge all the time try to keep them above 50%

once they're charged the charger will use naff all power if it's left connected up

 

[fizzy]

I used to make up charts in box layout for recording off-grid pack values in much the same way.
The post-charge cell volts and SG's should all be pretty close.... but if you have a duff cell the volts & SG might well be lower from the off (or youll see a higher voltage on yhe other celks as they overcharge to bringthe overall pack volts up to Float volts... but if not putting a load on will quickly reveal the duff un, as the volts on that cell will plummet fast.
Normal full charge about 2.4vdc per cell. (Equalise Charge about 2.58v/cell
Really you don't want to discharge below 1.8vdc per cell I'd say on traction Lead-Acid.
SG's are harder to know as some packs seem happier at lower SG than others- you just won't get them up to 12+. Again it's them being even as well as a reasonable value that seems the best indicator IMO

Yuasa are still making car batteries up the valleys - Ebbw Vale I think. Mate often takes a 26 tonne load of ingots up there from London and Immingham.