Battery drop testers

[fizzy]

The good old fashioned type. Auto electrician mate used to swear by the old type.
I need to test my forklift battery. Huge 2v cells.
I found this but no longer made.

https://www.durite.co.uk/052475-single-cell-discharge-b.html

Made for traction type batteries. 2v 375 amp.

Quite a few on Ebay. Mainly for testing 2v cells on car batteries up to 200 amps. But there are several that go up to 300 amps. Would that be enough for big traction cells? And if not does it go pop

This kind of thing.

 

[Turbo]

You need to find out the Ah of the cells before you go testing them with a random tester. You don't want to overload it.
Car testers are normally for 12v so I'm not sure how you work that on a 2v cell.

 

[zzr1200]

The good old fashioned type. Auto electrician mate used to swear by the old type.
I need to test my forklift battery. Huge 2v cells.
I found this but no longer made.

https://www.durite.co.uk/052475-single-cell-discharge-b.html

Made for traction type batteries. 2v 375 amp.

Quite a few on Ebay. Mainly for testing 2v cells on car batteries up to 200 amps. But there are several that go up to 300 amps. Would that be enough for big traction cells? And if not does it go pop

This kind of thing.

View attachment 507604

They're pointless for a traction battery single cell test.

You're better off topping up and fully charging the battery, then test each cell for it's charged status with a hydrometer (reading should be 1280sg >1250sg min), before load testing, using a multi-meter to monitor each cells voltage drop, while load testing.

This is done by holding the lift function valve, fully open at full travel height for several seconds, this will force the hydraulic maximum relief pressure (2800psi usually) valve to open, thus causing max load/drain on the battery cell.

You will be looking for the on load cell voltage not to drop below 1.6/1.7 volts, if they fall below they should be replaced, ideally they should hold above 1.8/1.9+ volts.

Repeat test for each cell

Note:- Don't use the tilt function as the hydraulic pressure setting may well be as low as 1500psi and will not load the system/battery enough....

 

[Turbo]

They're pointless for a traction battery single cell test.

You're better off topping up and fully charging the battery, then test each cell for it's charged status with a hydrometer (reading should be 1280sg >1250sg min), before load testing.

Then using a multi-meter to monitor the cells voltage drop, while load testing.

This is done by holding the lift function valve, fully open at full travel height for several seconds, this will force the hydraulic maximum relief pressure (2800psi usually) valve to open, thus causing max load/drain on the battery cell.

You looking for the on load cell voltage not to drop below 1.6/1.7 volts, if they fall below they should be replaced, ideally they should hold above 1.8/1.9+ volts.

Repeat test for each cell

Note:- Don't use the tilt function as the hydraulic pressure setting may well be as low as 1500psi and will not load the system/battery enough....

I used to see some of the other fitters testing the forklift batteries like that but I forgot about it.

Mind you it was a good few years ago.

 

[premmington]

Lead acid battery testing - you can make a bus bar up of glowplugs with a known amp value - and measure the volt drop under load with a multimeter.

But the "goldern nirvana" is internal resistance for lead acid battery testing - and then you gotta spend some money on testing equipment...

 

[zzr1200]

I used to see some of the other fitters testing the forklift batteries like that but I forgot about it.

Mind you it was a good few years ago.

Fully charging the battery and then full load/max load testing is the only way.

Hydrometer testing (where possible) and voltage meter measuring voltage drop across the cell or battery.

These modern electronic battery condition/voltage monitor things are crap and don't work because the load isn't high enough, nice print out but meaningless...

A proper 12v dead short/drop voltage tester:-

Nolten Spark-Arresting Discharge Battery Tester 12V 250A, 0-524-19

Nolten Spark-Arresting Discharge Battery Tester 12V 250A, 0-524-19 Battery Tester with Spark Arresting Feet 250 amp 12 volt Bx1 For use on 12 volt lead-acid automotive batteries up to 120 amp hours, discharging them at 250 amps at 9 volts. Legs feature

www.pfjones.co.uk

 

[fizzy]

They're pointless for a traction battery single cell test.

You're better off topping up and fully charging the battery, then test each cell for it's charged status with a hydrometer (reading should be 1280sg >1250sg min), before load testing, using a multi-meter to monitor each cells voltage drop, while load testing.

This is done by holding the lift function valve, fully open at full travel height for several seconds, this will force the hydraulic maximum relief pressure (2800psi usually) valve to open, thus causing max load/drain on the battery cell.

You will be looking for the on load cell voltage not to drop below 1.6/1.7 volts, if they fall below they should be replaced, ideally they should hold above 1.8/1.9+ volts.

Repeat test for each cell

Note:- Don't use the tilt function as the hydraulic pressure setting may well be as low as 1500psi and will not load the system/battery enough....

I have tested each cell with a hydrometer. All good. I think it's the charger. Stupid electronic one that is password protected. Seems to be in a stupid cycle. If I turn it off after say 4 hours there will be a good charge. Leave it to run it's full cycle the battery is flat again! Battery gets pretty warm as well.
Today though my Ebay bargain arrived. A dumb 48v forklift charger. Only £5
Will try that out next.

 

[zzr1200]

I have tested each cell with a hydrometer. All good. I think it's the charger. Stupid electronic one that is password protected. Seems to be in a stupid cycle. If I turn it off after say 4 hours there will be a good charge. Leave it to run it's full cycle the battery is flat again! Battery gets pretty warm as well.
Today though my Ebay bargain arrived. A dumb 48v forklift charger. Only £5
Will try that out next.

Theoretically an electronic charger warms the battery up for a while to accept the main charge, then applies fully charge power and then switches over to a degassing charge rate.

However I been out of the forklift side of things for many years and ended up in access equipment, which really only works on a 5 hour day machine operating cycle.

Sometimes a dumb old school charger is best, usually max power then when a set battery voltage is achieved the voltage timer changes over to a 4 hour degassing cycle.

Fizzy what make/model of forklift and charger?

 

[fizzy]

Yale reach truck. Gets very little use but never run the batteries right down. Charger has an air compressor in in to stir the cells

 

[zzr1200]

I've never seen a compressor in a charger, i can only think it's there to force vent the hydrogen from the batteries while charging, and I can't find a manual online for your charger, but:-


There's a password on page 14 of this manual for a Hawker charger the chances are it's a universal password but who knows, that part is at your own risk.....

https://www.hawkerpowersource.com/contentassets/627f3e47ff694e5fb1b2588627c7b80c/am-hltm1-om-rev-aa-dec-2017.pdf

PS. I'll have a work with a few old mates and see if I can find any info out....

 

[Turbo]

The fork lift operators at our place. were trained to do basic maintenance on the fork lifts and pallet trucks. They checked the oils and topped up the battery water.

Then they got 2 new pallet trucks with gel batteries. One over zealous driver managed to remove the caps off the sealed gel batteries and filled them with water!

Luckily damage was minimal and we only had to replace a couple of the cells. That was the end of operator maintenance!

There was a mains fed deionised water plant beside the chargers. So we all had a free supply of water for home use.

 

[fizzy]

My bargain came today. Right sized plug on it as well. Will test on weekend.
Not bad for a fiver

 

[zzr1200]

My bargain came today. Right sized plug on it as well. Will test on weekend.
Not bad for a fiver

View attachment 507707

A Bargain



Page 6/7

https://cdn.curtisinstruments.com/products/manuals/Concerto_User_Manual.pdf

 

[fizzy]

A Bargain



Page 6/7

https://cdn.curtisinstruments.com/products/manuals/Concerto_User_Manual.pdf

Thanks - much easier - you can alter profiles with dip switches

 

[fizzy]

A Bargain



Page 6/7

https://cdn.curtisinstruments.com/products/manuals/Concerto_User_Manual.pdf

Well the good news is the £5 charger works perfectly
The bad news the battery is obviously knackered. Or at least a few cells are.
Only pumping in 40 amps. After 30 mins it switched off.
Forklift showing full charge.
But at least I can use the Forklift for a few days. Then give it another 30 minute charger. The supplied Hawker smart charger would just sit there for 12 hours making loads of noise and doing nothing useful.
I will try a lift test and get someone with a multimeter on each cell.
I can live with it for a while.

 

[zzr1200]

You might be able to find a few second hand cells via a local forklift hire company or they should have a phone number for a large local battery factor who deals in/with traction batteries.

We used to re-acid cells with good voltages but low sg readings and replace dead or below spec cells.

This would give us another couple of years battery life possibly, before replacing the complete battery pack, but we used to change the batteriers every day because the forklift were working 24/7. Each forklift had 3 sets of batteries, plus other spare sets as well.

I don't know where your located so can't advise.

PS. When doing the lift/load test hold on max relief pressure until the lowest voltage shown is on the meter for at least 3 seconds to be shore.
................................................................................................................................................
I googled this:-

traction battery specialist near sheffield uk

and got this

Forklift Batteries & Forklift Battery Charger Services - IBCS

We supply Forklift Batteries, Chargers & Service to the entire distribution chain from manufacturers through forklift truck dealers...

www.forklift-batteries.co.uk

search locally to you...

hth

 

[m_c]

I was just going to suggest finding a local battery specialist.
We were having issues with the workshop one at a previous employer, and it was actually the Jungheinrich tech who was in servicing it gave us the contact details for somebody local(ish - they were based in Glasgow) who just dealt with batteries.

They came, tested them, identified the failed cells, and quoted to get them replaced.
IIRC they weren't actually that expensive, as I think they worked on the basis of waiting until they had multiple jobs in the same area, so that you weren't paying for all their travel time each time they visited.

 

[fizzy]

You might be able to find a few second hand cells via a local forklift hire company or they should have a phone number for a large local battery factor who deals in/with traction batteries.

We used to re-acid cells with good voltages but low sg readings and replace dead or below spec cells.

This would give us another couple of years battery life possibly, before replacing the complete battery pack, but we used to change the batteriers every day because the forklift were working 24/7. Each forklift had 3 sets of batteries, plus other spare sets as well.

I don't know where your located so can't advise.

PS. When doing the lift/load test hold on max relief pressure until the lowest voltage shown is on the meter for at least 3 seconds to be shore.
................................................................................................................................................
I googled this:-

traction battery specialist near sheffield uk

and got this

Forklift Batteries & Forklift Battery Charger Services - IBCS

We supply Forklift Batteries, Chargers & Service to the entire distribution chain from manufacturers through forklift truck dealers...

www.forklift-batteries.co.uk

search locally to you...

hth

Fortunately I can live with it for a while. 30 mins charge once every other week is fine. My so called smart charger was probably doing more harm than good. Leave it on for a full cycle and it was often back where you started.

 

[zzr1200]

Fortunately I can live with it for a while. 30 mins charge once every other week is fine. My so called smart charger was probably doing more harm than good. Leave it on for a full cycle and it was often back where you started.

"Living with it for a while" will only do more damage to the savable cells that are in the battery atm, much better to find out/know what it's going to cost you, in the short and/or long term.

Our "Chloride Battery Service" tech guy, would always keep his eye out for used serviceable cells ( to re-locate... ) to help his owner/operator customers out, who couldn't afford complete brand new battery packs, it's well worth knowing who your local guy is.....

 

[northwest]

One over zealous driver managed to remove the caps off the sealed gel batteries and filled them with water!

Sometimes it is impossible to factor in the depth of stupidity some people can attain!

As mentioned above a good independent battery tech is a very useful person to know, we used to have a couple guys who always worked together and my dad would have them come round regular to test battery packs, it was like a service routine really as there isn't much else to service on a milk float and we had a fleet* of them.



* If you had asked me in the 1970's whether or not all electric vehicles would work on UK roads I would have been able to answer this "modern" question then!