Thoughts on heating a workshop

[julianf]

My garage is a prefab sectional one.

Battoned and insulation on the inside (thick on the roof, but less on the walls) and then a cheap domestic oil fired boiler.

If I'm doing anything even slightly active in there in the winter, Ill have to be in a T-shirt if the heat is on max.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

I have a workshop/outbuilding and I want to buy some sort of heater for it. It's about 25 square meters, not particularly well insulated (well, not at all) and can get a little damp in the winter. It has a decent electricity supply.

I don't want to poison me or make the place more damp.

Any thoughts, recommendations and/or experiences?

I'm in Scotland btw, so can get cold at any time of year.

Depends why you want to heat it.

If it's for controlling rust/condensation, then a dehumidifier (specifically a dessicant type one) on a humidistat is much more effective, and more energy efficient.

I have a Munters unit mounted in my eaves:

If it's for your own thermal comfort, then doing a permanent installation of a eberspacher knock-off diesel heater with ducting to spread the air out is extremely effective.

That has a balanced flue fitted outside, with the exhaust pipe routed to it through a steel duct packed with ceramic wool and sealed with fire cement.

The fuel line is solid copper microbore, to remote acting fire cut-off valve meeting BS5410, which then connects through a bulkhead fitting to a jerry can outside via a modified spout.

If I did it again, I would put the heater and outlet ducts at floor level, and run a duct from the middle of the ceiling to the heater for the makeup air.

The forced convection from that setup would massively decrease the time taken to heat the workshop.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

My garage is a prefab sectional one.

Battoned and insulation on the inside (thick on the roof, but less on the walls) and then a cheap domestic oil fired boiler.

If I'm doing anything even slightly active in there in the winter, Ill have to be in a T-shirt if the heat is on max.

Mine is also sectional and done similarly with rockwool RWA45, even in -5°C it will maintain a very comfortable 15°C internally with the heater on low.

It also maintains an adequate internal temp without needing the heater on from early spring to mid autumn, as long we get some sunlight a few days a week.

 

[addjunkie]

Depends why you want to heat it.

If it's for controlling rust/condensation, then a dehumidifier (specifically a dessicant type one) on a humidistat is much more effective, and more energy efficient.

I have a Munters unit mounted in my eaves:
View attachment 499298


If it's for your own thermal comfort, then doing a permanent installation of a eberspacher knock-off diesel heater with ducting to spread the air out is extremely effective.

View attachment 499299View attachment 499300View attachment 499301

That has a balanced flue fitted outside, with the exhaust pipe routed to it through a steel duct packed with ceramic wool and sealed with fire cement.

The fuel line is solid copper microbore, to remote acting fire cut-off valve meeting BS5410, which then connects through a bulkhead fitting to a jerry can outside via a modified spout.

View attachment 499302

View attachment 499303

If I did it again, I would put the heater and outlet ducts at floor level, and run a duct from the middle of the ceiling to the heater for the makeup air.

The forced convection from that setup would massively decrease the time taken to heat the workshop.

That dehumidifier bring back memories, I worked for them when I first left the sea for 6 months or so.

 

[Jacktegla]

Don’t even consider one of those, if condensation can be a problem. Each volume of fuel will produce an equal volume of water vapour - and there is also the risk of CO poisoning, if in a completely draught-proof enclosure.

The cheap chinese air heaters, installed outside, are far better, IMO.

Well from personal experience completely wrong there sorry. We've had no issues with condensation in our garage insulated with 50mm king span walls and roof as for co poisoning well I'm still here and I've worked continuously for 8 hours in there with it on full wack and had no issues. Know many local businesses who've swapped over to these in workshops so I presume they will of had to done health and safety assessment to use them but again only my experience.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

Well from personal experience completely wrong there sorry. We've had no issues with condensation in our garage insulated with 50mm king span walls and roof as for co poisoning well I'm still here and I've worked continuously for 8 hours in there with it on full wack and had no issues. Know many local businesses who've swapped over to these in workshops so I presume they will of had to done health and safety assessment to use them but again only my experience.

Is the exhaust vented to the outside?

Most Infrared Heater arrangements I've seen (mostly natural gas Ambirad types) have a flue.

If that's the case with yours, then both the increased condensation and CO issues are handled by the flue taking exhaust gasses away.

 

[Jacktegla]

Is the exhaust vented to the outside?

Most Infrared Heater arrangements I've seen (mostly natural gas Ambirad types) have a flue.

If that's the case with yours, then both the increased condensation and CO issues are handled by the flue taking exhaust gasses away.

Ours is a diesel one, ours doesn't vent outside just inside building. And had no issues so far.

 

[tigdlo]

Ours is a diesel one, ours doesn't vent outside just inside building. And had no issues so far.

Were does the water from combustion go?

 

[RWD3M]

Don't ask me to insulate it. I know. It's not happening.

It's just a single thickness of brick building with a pitched roof. Roller shutter door at one end. Poured concrete floor. Very dull.

Use is intermittent. If I was using it for my main day job it would be different. I might in the future - but not right now.

Buy a thick coat and some thermal underwear, it'll save you a fortune.

 

[Jacktegla]

Were does the water from combustion go?

Absolutely no idea, but we've had no issues with any condensation whatsoever. And we've had it about 2 or 3 years now

 

[tigdlo]

Absolutely no idea

Combustion of diesel produces water, unless it is somehow collected it goes into your workshop, which may not cause an issue for you but could for others.

 

[oldbikedavey]

I have a Deville multi-fuel heater, which is truly excellent.
Silent, requires no electricity, and can kick out about 12kW when sufficiently provoked.
Significantly, the flue exhausts to a roof stack, so no combustion products enter the workshop zone.
Brilliant bit of kit, which will run on anything you can run a truck, a tank, or a Mirage on....

 

[8ob]

Curious to know what the OP has in mind for a heat source.

Bob

 

[JOEPRO]

This is my arcotherm on a test run. Clean fume free heat and lots of it. Ill build a small outdoor shed for it

 

[Arc Tourist]

Don't ask me to insulate it. I know. It's not happening.

It's just a single thickness of brick building with a pitched roof. Roller shutter door at one end. Poured concrete floor. Very dull.

Use is intermittent. If I was using it for my main day job it would be different. I might in the future - but not right now.

I've posted this before. The gap between your roller shutter can, easily and cheaply, be sealed from draft by stapling an appropriate length of rubber backed carpet ( new or used ) to a batten, and then attach the batten to the beam over the roller; so the carpet rides on the door; works a treat.

Here is a rough sketch and a couple of photos to give you a visual perspective.
.

 

[barracuda816]

I Like that. Cheap and effective.

 

[500e]

Am I reading this Correctly

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

View attachment 499582Am I reading this Correctly

One of my friends is a nurse, he has said stickers at work for obvious reasons, but loves to joke around sticking them to anything long and thin .