ESAB Miniarc Rogue ES 180i

[TheJay]

Hey, I have this machine and am wanting to do a few basic tasks.

So this is the manual: https://engweld.s3.eu-west-2.amazon...ts/6427-rogue-150i-180i-manual-1589354941.pdf

I've used it a bit and found it's sticking even though it's not supposed to.

I think I need to use the process selection button, which is the push one used to set hot start and arc force.

Not sure what metals these are but they are both magnetic. I don't want to burn any holes in the thin washer, but I do want it to stick to the rod through the hole in the centre of the washer.

Could someone please recommend settings that are likely to work for this?

I'm also going to need to add some angle bracket to these plates, again the plate is thick but the angle bracket is going to be quite thin.

Thanks for your help! :-)

 

[TheJay]

Afternoon, anyone about who can help?

 

[premmington]

Afternoon, anyone about who can help?

@TheJay

If it is magnetic - you want an AC MMA welder - buzzbox transformer

Not the DC welder you got.

Google Magnetic arc blow or "arc wander"



"Arc blow, or arc wandering, is more prominent with DC welding due to the consistent directional flow of current. It's caused by the magnetic fields generated by the welding arc interacting with residual magnetism in the base material. While AC welding also produces magnetic fields, the alternating polarity helps mitigate arc blow by counteracting the effects of the residual magnetism."

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your reply, I am confused as a DC welder is designed to work with ferrous metals that are magnetic like carbon, mild and stainless steel?

 

[premmington]

Thanks for your reply, I am confused as a DC welder is designed to work with ferrous metals that are magnetic like carbon, mild and stainless steel?

Weld pool when hot is molten - fluid and get washed about by magnetism.

DC goes from positive to negative pole.

AC alternating current goes from north south poles - 50htz or 50 times a second - thru a transformer (buzzbox).

On better welders you can adjust the Htz....


Google the subject there is loads on the internet about the subject.

 

[TheJay]

I did look it up and I am more confused because what you are saying contradicts what the internet says in most cases. In summary:

That response includes true elements but again misses the broader picture. Let’s break it down precisely:

---

​

1. Molten weld pool is affected by magnetism
   Yes — arc blow is caused by magnetic fields distorting the arc, which then disturbs the weld pool. This is more of an issue with DC welding, where the current is unidirectional.
2. DC is one-directional (positive to negative)
   Correct — in DC welding, the current flows consistently one way. This leads to steady arc characteristics, better penetration, and control.
3. AC switches direction 50 times per second (50 Hz in the UK)
   Also true — this constant switching helps neutralize magnetic effects, so arc blow is less common.

---

​

1. “If it’s magnetic, you want AC”
   Oversimplification.
   
   • While AC can help with arc blow, that doesn’t mean DC can’t weld magnetic materials — it welds them better in most cases.
   • Arc blow only becomes a problem in edge cases: thick materials, sharp corners, long welds on magnetized steels, etc.
   • Inverter DC welders (like yours) often allow polarity changes, which helps.
2. “Better welders let you adjust Hz” (implied for arc blow control)
   Misleading.
   
   • This refers to AC frequency control in TIG welding (typically on high-end AC/DC TIG machines for aluminum).
   • Stick welders like the Rogue don’t use adjustable Hz because DC is already preferred for stick.

---

Summary:​

• DC is the standard for welding steel — smoother, cleaner, and more controlled.
• AC is a workaround when arc blow becomes a problem (like pipe welding or old transformer buzzboxes).
• The ESAB Miniarc Rogue ES 180i is ideal for 90%+ of jobs you'd do at home or in a workshop.
• Arc blow is real but solvable, even with DC — it does not make your machine “wrong.”

 

[premmington]

I do allot of locking wheel nut extraction on cars for a living.

While I prefer to MMA weld in DC - with higher OCV arc sticking voltages - down a hole with a bit of 20mm x 10mm mild steel in the way.

I struggle with arcblow on some cars due the magnetic hubs for ABS sensors.

So sometimes I have to change to AC with a buzzbox - but lower OCV causes problems (mostly buying welding rods that will stay alight at lower voltages now).

All of this extraction welding I do with 312 3.2mm MMA rods.

-----------

I got plenty of welders to choose from - couple of DC invertors - Lincoln AC/DC tig set which only does DC MMA - plus MIG sets (which are no use for this application).

Yeah I have to drag out the ancient buzzbox sometimes (I doubt you could buy an AC MMA welder now - due to laws on electrical losses).

-----------

I once got some free used steel from the water board - this had had loads of water running over it - for some reason I could not fathom - this was pig to weld due to arcblow and wander.


But @TheJay if you convinced yourself you got the tool for the job - get magnet out of an old speaker and strike an arc on it with a MMA rod - and see what happens to your weld puddle mate...

 

[hotponyshoes]

Just to clarify,

When you say the metals are magnetic,
Do you just mean that a magnet will stick to them?

Or the metal itself is magnetic. Ie, you could drag a nail around with them?

 

[premmington]

Just to clarify,

When you say the metals are magnetic,
Do you just mean that a magnet will stick to them?

Or the metal itself is magnetic. Ie, you could drag a nail around with them?

Is he saying they are ferous - or been magnistised?

@hotponyshoes - very good point of clarification...


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Edit: Reread his first post - he used the term magnetic - when he should have used "ferromagnetic"

 

[TheJay]

Magnetic, not magnetised.

 

[premmington]

Magnetic, not magnetised.

@TheJay - In which case - ignore everything I said - carry on in DC

 

[Munkul]

Sorry, had to laugh there - whilst Premmington was being technically correct, i don't think the OP meant he was welding magnets at all

Regarding rods sticking, this will happen sometimes anyways, even with the very best welding machines with anti stick, arc force etc - its just life.
Learn to strike the rods, it will come with practice and experience.
Even now, I'll stick a rod now and again. Especially rods that have already been lit up before. It happens.

 

[premmington]

Sorry, had to laugh there - whilst Premmington was being technically correct, i don't think the OP meant he was welding magnets at all

Regarding rods sticking, this will happen sometimes anyways, even with the very best welding machines with anti stick, arc force etc - its just life.
Learn to strike the rods, it will come with practice and experience.
Even now, I'll stick a rod now and again. Especially rods that have already been lit up before. It happens.

I got the wrong end of the stick there - he did say there where magnetic thou.

Welding into - metal which has been magnetised is real hard work.


I did some home study on this for a while - to overcome my wheel nut extraction problem - even learned what the measurement of magnetism is called and movng earth return leads about or adding them... I even bought a Gauss meter.

 

[hotponyshoes]

First thing I would do is get a file on the material and see if it has any sort of coating on it.

Those washers look zinc plated and the bars look like they could be chromed

 

[TheJay]

First thing I would do is get a file on the material and see if it has any sort of coating on it.

Those washers look zinc plated and the bars look like they could be chromed

Thanks. Yep, coated. So remove the zinc and chrome from the area to be welded. What settings are recommended on the machine for this task?

 

[TheJay]

Also, tack or plug weld? What's going to be easiest? You've also got me interested in having an AC welder for those instances DC isn't optimal. Presumably there are some small machines available that don't take up too much space? What should I be looking for, some kind of oil cooled machine? Make/model?

 

[hotponyshoes]

Thanks. Yep, coated. So remove the zinc and chrome from the area to be welded. What settings are recommended on the machine for this task?

Chrome has a much higher melting point than zinc.
That means the coating on the washer will burn off first. With no coating the electrical resistance will be less and your arc will get drawn off that way.

Regarding settings, what thickness are the washers?

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your reply. The washers are about 2mm thick.

 

[premmington]

Also, tack or plug weld? What's going to be easiest? You've also got me interested in having an AC welder for those instances DC isn't optimal. Presumably there are some small machines available that don't take up too much space? What should I be looking for, some kind of oil cooled machine? Make/model?

Don't bother with an AC MMA welder - the open circuit voltage of about 40volts or less makes starting an arc with an electrode hard work.

Your ESAB ES180i has an OCV of 63VDC (I had a look online).

 

[hotponyshoes]

Not many instances that DC isn't optimal.
The only real requirement for an AC welder is if you actually want to weld magnets themselves.
If the metal was just heavily magnetised I'd be de-magnatising it before welding to use dc (then magnetise again if required)

I did once regularly use an ac machine with a magnetic welding jig. But, the magnets in the jig caused problems, mainly attracting swarf/dust and magnitising the parts that went through the jig so that idea was scrapped as quick-clamps were actually quicker than cleaning all the swarf off the jig.

Main advantage with ac welders now is the low purchase price of a cheap machine. But you get a cheap machine, low duty cycle and no features.

Oil cooled machines are ultra reliable, low cost (for a used one) and have the best duty cycle per £ spent by far.
But once you go over 150a with an oil cooled you won't be able to lift it.
You also struggle to run one on a regular plug as most trip the breaker with the inrush current.