Good paint for the Vette ?

[W.olly]

Morning all.
I was about to order the paint today for the Vettes new paint job. Now i am worried if i am buying cheap ;paint from what somebody said. It all started when i asked somebody why it cost them over $2500 in materials ( yes this is from an American site ) That chap has not replied but a paint shop chap said this

because you are buying and using really cheap paint and materials. 5 year hood time for cheap paint. 20 year for good brand name paint.
So lower cost but Middle of the road base coat clear coat with reducer and activator will run about $750-2000 for good paint. Very good paint will be about $2500.
I can paint a car and charge $3000 but the client will be spending $1500 minimum on the materials and paint. Clear, base, reducer activator and tack cloths, masking paper, sand paper and plastic. So there you go. If you buy a kit that is $500 for everything, expect the worst paint possible that will not hold up under the sun. I’m an ex body and paint guy. 13 years and worked out of 3 shops. Cheap is cheap.

For mine i just went to the local car paint suppliers and asked for a price to paint the Vette, i had a test can off him a month ago and went on well and colour matched great. That though does not mean its a good paint.
this was £420 for 2pk primmer, top coot and lacquer and mask


What should i be asking for to get it painted to original, as in nothing bling just a good paint.

 

[ajlelectronics]

What should i be asking for to get it painted to original, as in nothing bling just a good paint.

I was quoting minimum £7k without even seeng a Scimitar respray. A Kitten with some fire damage was £5k 15 years ago.

 

[Morris]

Are you going to paint this yourself? If not I wouldn't worry about the paint cost, the labour will dwarf it.
If you are doing it yourself then a few thoughts from a rank amateur.
I don't think comparing US prices with UK prices is any use. Stuff is expensive over there and varies across the states.
Likewise the amount of damage done by sunlight. There's nothing over here that compares to Southern sun damage.
Use a solid 2k rather than base and clear, saves a bit.
I use what the local paint factor sells me, he supplies a lot of the local body shops so I trust it's not crap. It's usually Mipa which seems ok to me.
EDIT. I think how you look after it in the following years may be a big factor in how it lasts, some old cellulose cheap jobs last surprisingly well with regular polishing.

 

[mr haynes]

1: Know your colour. This will point you in the direction of paint system
1a: Not all brands supply all colours, nor are they identical.
2: Know your budget. Pick a known brand within that budget.
3: Know what is supplied locally. Refer back to 2

Last i done any serious painting, Standox was the go to around here but never had any problems with likes of Mipa, Max Meyer, etc.
Important thing is the "known quantity" aspect and colour matching

 

[JOEPRO]

You should talk to a local, reputable auto paint supplier. Note to them your car has fibreglass bodywork!

They may for example recommend additives to the paint for flexibility. And normally there will be basic and premium level paints available.

I usually buy Glasurit or similar branded paint from local auto paint supplier for my car restorations. My painter likes it. I also had one order of silver base from ebay for wheels and my painter complained about that paint being "cheap sh#te" and needed 6 or 8 coats to cover correctly. So there can be vast differences between cheap paint and the top tier paint. You probably want to be somewhere in the middle cost value wise which is where a local supplier is best placed to advise you on.

 

[tigdlo]

If you can't find a knowledgeable supplier that can advise on painting a GRP car then you can trawl through the data sheets of the well regarded manufacturers, Lechler, Max Meyer, Glasurit to find the information you need. I've had a quick look, how flexible the GRP is would determine the primer and topcoat/lacquer flex additive.

https://portal.lechler.eu/DesktopMo...oad.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=172878

 

[ajlelectronics]

If you can't find a knowledgeable supplier that can advise on painting a GRP car then you can trawl through the data sheets of the well regarded manufacturers, Lechler, Max Meyer, Glasurit to find the information you need. I've had a quick look, how flexible the GRP is would determine the primer and topcoat/lacquer flex additive.

https://portal.lechler.eu/DesktopMo...oad.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=172878

There is no need of "flexible additives" in modern paint. Applying colour coats to GRP is no different to steel, it is the preparation and priming that is literally the key to a good job. Epoxy primer is a given for GRP jobs of course.

Agreed about paint quality. I had some Radiant Red from a local supplier that would just not cover; infuriating.
For home jobs, Jawel paint in their solid colour kits isn't bad, quality wise and not greatly expensive.

 

[Bullet2012]

Or

Spray Polyester Flowcoat - RAL5000 - 6034

ECF The UKs top-rated fibreglass / GRP supplier. Excellent customer service, huge range and next-day delivery available. Free advice for your project.

www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk

 

[Morris]

1: Know your colour. This will point you in the direction of paint system
1a: Not all brands supply all colours, nor are they identical.
2: Know your budget. Pick a known brand within that budget.
3: Know what is supplied locally. Refer back to 2

Last i done any serious painting, Standox was the go to around here but never had any problems with likes of Mipa, Max Meyer, etc.
Important thing is the "known quantity" aspect and colour matching

Re Standox. The first car I painted (1983) was done in Standox. The next time I looked at it I couldn't afford it! Seriously expensive stuff.

 

[8ob]

Getting it into an oven and getting all the moisture/ trapped pockets of air out of the fibreglass is more important than the choice of paint.

Bob

 

[ajlelectronics]

Getting it into an oven and getting all the moisture/ trapped pockets of air out of the fibreglass is more important than the choice of paint.

Bob

Absolutely right, you clearly meant water! I have my Middlebridge suitably denuded, in the Machine Mart garage cooking nicely.

 

[keithski122]

I've bought 2k paint from nu again (from ebay but has online shop) because it was cheap ad nice custom colours, went on nice and not had problems afterwards.

 

[W.olly]

Thanks chaps for the help. Lots to study there and take in.

Maybe then the best thing to do is go the car paint shop and tell them what i am doing.they are a well established shop to the local motor trade.
I will be priming i hope this weekend with the Rustbuster custom epoxy. Which is good as i can paint most 2pk paints over it.
I'll.be painting it as original and dark metallic blue. So I'll take the fuel filler lid to the shop to colour match it up.


Whay got me a bit is the types. Cellulose, Urethane etc.

Oh and yes I am doing it myself in tje garge in the pic. So no nasty paint can be used.

I'll.pop.in tomorrow and see what they suggest. And see if it matches up with you guys subgestios.

 

[jsf55]

I ordered all mine from express paints, was recommended, anything over £75 post free, Lechler epoxy over all the car including fibreglass rear wings and front. about 2 litres used same in Lechler high build and 3 litres of Lechler MAC 41 and suitable hardners and thinners, it wasn't cheap £550, but it's done everything i want, factor in about another £200 for odds and ends !!

 

[ajlelectronics]

Maybe then the best thing to do is go the car paint shop and tell them what i am doing.they are a well established shop to the local motor trade.

An excellent idea.

I will be priming i hope this weekend with the Rustbuster custom epoxy. Which is good as i can paint most 2pk paints over it.

Nope. a) It is an expensive way of buying Jotun and b) Jotun is not an automotive paint. Get a proper automotive 2 part epoxy like Lechler 29107, Mipa or even Kapci.

I'll.be painting it as original and dark metallic blue. So I'll take the fuel filler lid to the shop to colour match it up.

That makes sense, or better still you could choose a modern colour which is very similar. Then repairs and touchups will be easy because you will know the colour name and code.

Whay got me a bit is the types. Cellulose, Urethane etc.

It will be 1K Acrylic that you will be using. Get the VERY BEST thinners, as well as a gallon of gunwash (aka Standard thinners". ) Don't mix them up. You also need plenty of real Acetone for cleaning the fibreglass initially. Slow panel wipe will be your friend in this weather too.
Final coats should be 25:75 to give a nice from the gun gloss. Be careful of runs by applying too much at once though, all you are doing is helping the surface to flow.

I'll.pop.in tomorrow and see what they suggest. And see if it matches up with you guys subgestios.

Auto paint shops should be experts in their field, but they are not bodyshops and unlikely to have anything but guesses about the correct way to approach the job. The experience of professionals is what you should be asking for.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Although some would disagree, I NEVER put any lesser primer over the epoxy, it is pointless. If you need higher build, add more epoxy coats. Don't try to sand it for at least 24 hours though. If it "pills" on the abrasive, it is not fully cured.

Should you do an excellent job of the epoxy coats, you can go straight to colour coats once it has properly flashed off, without the need for flatting.

 

[qwakers]

if you paint it in single pack acrylic you will be very disappointed in the finish. 2k base and clear is the only option for a lasting shine.

 

[ajlelectronics]

if you paint it in single pack acrylic you will be very disappointed in the finish. 2k base and clear is the only option for a lasting shine.

Agreed, but with perseverance a good finish can eventually be obtained. It is probably preferable to damaging the health of himself and potentially others too.

 

[W.olly]

if you paint it in single pack acrylic you will be very disappointed in the finish. 2k base and clear is the only option for a lasting shine.

Thays what i am going for. Is the base coat a urethane paint ?

It's all.2k that j am using. I am.sure Iremember him.saying ICC6000 clear coat. Something like that.

 

[qwakers]

the base is usually a water base or solvent base single pack base. the primer and lacquer are 2k and the most important parts ime. i use mipa and upol products depending if i want standard or custom colours. mipa ime is top drawer.

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mipa-paints.uk

water base is legal for all applications and better for the environment, but i find it a pita to work out when its properly dry before lacquer, and it cracks up if you lacquer it before its properly dry, solvent base coat has restrictions on its use, but you can paint classic cars with it with no restriction, any motorcycle, any industrial equipment and modify any age car.