Uregent Help Needed Please!!!

[dave h 2]

As Beanwood suggests 'what's on the other end' the obvious answer being you say it's threaded rod is another nut.
So you tighten that nut up as hard as you dare to preload the rod, put one of your welded nuts back on just one thread loose, blow lamp the crankcase where the rod goes through and hit the welded nut quickly because the alloy will whip the heat away quickly.
If you have an air chisel set or an SDS drill on hammer only use that on a good nut which will stop the punch wandering off

 

[Seadog]

Its just threaded rod protruding either side then it had a captive end domed nut fitted either side , the mounts for the forward controls were then aligned and the threaded bar ( cut to a perfect length) then either pushed through or wound through the two brackets and the the captive nots fitted. With the brackets fitted i can ot look into the hole the threaded rod is in as covered by the brackets. The thread is pretty bad, i will look the other side and see what thats like.

If it's not been apart for a long time, and has got wet over a long periods of time, it's likely going to be very difficult to remove.

 

[3pinplug]

Hi all
Had a break from it as was getting nowhere, heres some better pics of the dilemma.
Whatever i try and weld to thethreaded rod the weld just doesn't seem to penetrate and so when I then turn the nut after welding one on, after leaving it to cool it will just break off.
Pics of the weld in the nuts, it looks like an aero bar of cholcolate i.e has a bubbly effect , I am on max amps and wires speed of about 4, its not woodpeckering so assuming the wire speed is fine. I was thinking earth issue so when earth clamped on I checked continuity on my DVM from the earth clamp to where I was welding the nut and it showed continuity. Puttign earth clamp on other end of the threaded rod protruding left hand side in pic ?(looks the same as what you can see if the pic on the right which is where i am attempting to weld the nut too.
Really at a loss, I tried filing the surfaces of the bolts to remove any coating that didn't help either, could I have a too higher power setting?
Looking at the weld in / on the nuts, does that immediately indiocte anything?

Thanks all

 

[indykid]

What bike is it? Someone must surely know if it's a plain through hole or two tapped holes.

To me, it looks like the stud has rotted into the casing so heat, percussion and penetrating fluid will be required. I've had bolts corrode in alloy calipers before that had to be milled out. Absolutely no chance was anything else shifting them.

 

[RWD3M]

Can you get an 'end on' picture of the stud? Maybe use a mirror if you can't get a good view of it.

 

[Guzrik]

If it is a bolt, then stop welding and do as Fintray says.
An alternative would be to drill it out on a mill, or edm; both jobs migth exceed the price of the bike.
Third option is to leave it as is maybe?

Fourth option is to carefully cut the bracket of and leave the bolt.
Put a capnut on for show.

 

[addjunkie]

Diamond disc on dremel type tool, and cut the stud between the casting and bracket both sides. Remove then worry about the stud later.

 

[Guzrik]

Diamond disc on dremel type tool, and cut the stud between the casting and bracket both sides. Remove then worry about the stud later.

Or sacrifice and cut the bar tube in te middle, it will then fall off?

 

[RichardM]

Are you trying to remove the engine mounting bolt with no nut on the end going through the frame brackets?
Is so you won't do it welding a nut on the end and hoping the heat from there will free it.
You could try heating up the casing, penetrating oil and hitting it, but if you have clearance drilling the bolt out is probably the only way.

 

[Guzrik]

Are you trying to remove the engine mounting bolt with no nut on the end going through the frame brackets?
Is so you won't do it welding a nut on the end and hoping the heat from there will free it.
You could try heating up the casing, penetrating oil and hitting it, but if you have clearance drilling the bolt out is probably the only way.

Be aware that a out of center drilled hole will make it much more difficult to drill through the center in the future.
For this you really only have one chance, preferably on a mill.
Am I right in thinking this is only a footpeg bar ts wants to remove, and not put anything back?

 

[3pinplug]

Hi

Will attempt to answer some of the questions and have considered some of the proposed resolutions:-

1. Bike is a 1988 Yamaha Virago XV1000

2. The bracket is part of the forward controls (Rear Brake lever and Gearchange lever fitted to this bar), bike did not come with the standard footpegs, brake or gearchange lever so need to resolve issue and use the forwards.

3. As suggested - does the rod go all the way through and the puzzle is - if its threaded how was it tightened? Whilst rumaging through my nuts and bolts box last night I came across an exhaust manifold stud and had a lightbulb moment after reading the replies!!! - could it actually "NOT" be a threaded rod and actually 2 x exhaust style "studs"??? - is the current bracket masking the part with no thread on? I tried to get a zoomed in end on photo as requested but i can't see intot the bracket to see if any non threaed part but again that suggestion has also helped with the next step.

4. Again, as suggested I am now going to cut off one of the brackets to allow removal of the entire forward controls to see exactly what is under there. Will do this early part of week then report back with some further photos. hopefully be easier to get the removed bracket welded back on to the forward controls. At least then i cam see exactly what is there and may have more thread to play with, get two nuts on as suggested or if they are a stud a new way to get them out.

5. Why am i removing the forward controls? - the right hand side as shown in pic is bent (exaggerated in pic) and this has resulteed in the rear brake lever being jammed solid, so once controls are off i can heat up and straighten freeing the brake lever.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, these have really helped and decide on the way forward, so next challenge is to get the braket off. Its pretty tight space wise so will see if i can get my grinder in there, if not then its dremmel time or some other way - hacksaw possibly, will see
when i am under there.

Cheers all !!!

 

[RichardM]

Look up a Yamaha parts diagram, that will show you what is supposed to be there.

CRANKCASE - 1988 Cruiser XV1000 (XV1000 (3DR1) [999]) - Yamaha Motors Parts | Crowley Cycles

View parts diagrams and shop online for CRANKCASE parts, Yamaha Motors 1988 Cruiser XV1000 (XV1000 (3DR1) [999]). Easy-to-use parts diagrams. Flat $4.95 shipping available.

www.crowleycycles.com

FRAME - 1988 Cruiser XV1000 (XV1000 (3DR1) [999]) - Yamaha Motors Parts | Crowley Cycles

View parts diagrams and shop online for FRAME parts, Yamaha Motors 1988 Cruiser XV1000 (XV1000 (3DR1) [999]). Easy-to-use parts diagrams. Flat $4.95 shipping available.

www.crowleycycles.com

Crankcases are split vertically, it will be a bolt going through or a long stud.

 

[Pete.]

On vertical split case for sure it will be a pass through bolt. It's probably ja..Ed in solid with powdery white aluminium oxide from inside the hole in the engine cases.

 

[3pinplug]

Hi all
I have got the forward controls off, i cut the bracket off and managed to remove them. I need to refurb them then have to put them back on as no other footrests, brake lever etc. i have the feelers out with the virago club as to what the hole through the engine casing is likely to be i.e threaded at factory, just a pass through tube etc, as this will certainly help. Heres some pics of the area and close up of either side of the stud. I like the sound of putting a nut on and using heat but before hitting it to try and dislodge it i need to know if threaded or not as don't want to risk damaging the engine casing. I got a little pick and ran it round the point where the thread goes into the engine casing and did work some white powder loose so yes looks to be en-tombed in the white stuff!! Thanks for all the suggestions to date i am going to revisit the thread and note them all down and tick off the ones i have done to identify which other ones i still need to try.

 

[addjunkie]

Hi all
I have got the forward controls off, i cut the bracket off and managed to remove them. I need to refurb them then have to put them back on as no other footrests, brake lever etc. i have the feelers out with the virago club as to what the hole through the engine casing is likely to be i.e threaded at factory, just a pass through tube etc, as this will certainly help. Heres some pics of the area and close up of either side of the stud. I like the sound of putting a nut on and using heat but before hitting it to try and dislodge it i need to know if threaded or not as don't want to risk damaging the engine casing. I got a little pick and ran it round the point where the thread goes into the engine casing and did work some white powder loose so yes looks to be en-tombed in the white stuff!! Thanks for all the suggestions to date i am going to revisit the thread and note them all down and tick off the ones i have done to identify which other ones i still need to try.

Put a nut on each end till flush. And give it a good tap each end repeatedly spraying with a release type product.

 

[indykid]

If it's the same engine as this ebay listing, it's a plain bore. Vibration and penetrating lubrication are your best bet.

It might be worth drilling a small hole on the split line or on one side close to the split line to get some penetrating oil to the centre too as it's unlikely to wick all the way in from either end.

If you have any salvageable thread on either end (and a lathe), it would be worth considering a drill fixture to attempt to drill it out but you'll need some long series drills. If you have an air hammer or an SDS drill with roto stop, it might be worth giving it a jiggle with that first, but it's a long bore so if it's corroded all the way through, it's going to fight pretty hard.