As I read "tap", I assumed tapping the holes deeper?Don't bolts and set screws have rolled threads, rather than die-cut.
As I read "tap", I assumed tapping the holes deeper?Don't bolts and set screws have rolled threads, rather than die-cut.
Don't bolts and set screws have rolled threads, rather than die-cut.
As I read "tap", I assumed tapping the holes deeper?
Because that's what's specified by the engine manufacturer....
There can be an edge case for using a lower more ductile grade where it may be subject to some sudden impact loading that might snap a more brittle fastener.I (nearly) always read the bolt grade as the minimum required for the job in hand. There is not usually any reason, other than cost, for/against using a higher grade?
I can't see your link, but you dimensions agreed with my earlier posting of "At those lengths, the threaded part ought to measure 2 x D + 1/4"". There is of course a minimum length where you can only get a fully threaded version.Could you ask them whether what they specify comes from ASME/ANSI B18.2.1 or if it is a special?
https://www.zzsteels.com/knowledge/asme-b18.2.1-2010.pdf (Table 2 and paragraph 3.7).
My reading of this is that for a 7/16" diameter item, the thread length is 1 1/8", so on the 1 1/4" long item that you require, that would only leave 1/8" plain shank.