Help Taking Curve Out of Repair Patch

[ahebron]

Looks to me like you are bead forming a panel. It needs to be firmly bolted/clamped between two flat surfaces. don't be afraid to bolt it as you can weld the hole up.
I find this guy is a wealth of knowledge and worth watching
I know I have posted the same reply on another forum but no harm in sharing

 

[OJCar]

Personally (I've done a goodly load of welding on Disco 1 shells) I would buy in the panel from either Froggatts or GDI Products.
Or remember it can't be seen ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293033539852

Is it a 3 door or a 5 door ?
If a 5 door have a very hard look at the state of the rear passenger door wheel arch panels and the rear wheel inner arch often goes where the D pillar meets it.

Taking the alloy outer wing off (or flexing it open on 3 doors) makes it much easier to do the job properly.

 

[Max36]

Stop using the cross pein on flat surfaces, it just makes a mess.
When they bang out the panels in the factory it can take 3 strikes with the monster press and the finished result has a seriously frilly 6" edge that gets cut off.
Heat and quench shrinking works best on flat panels like doors that someone has kicked in, you push the dent out from behind and it looks great till you touch it and it flips back in again because it stretched.
Make the G clamps very tight.

Will do, thank you!

I’ve done plenty of these, just buy the repair panels from froggatts and be done with it

I had been doing for other parts like the rear crossmember and wheel arches, but I have to do the piece above the window as well and I can't see a repair piece for that area. Plus I'll never know how to do it if I don't try!

Looks to me like you are bead forming a panel. It needs to be firmly bolted/clamped between two flat surfaces. don't be afraid to bolt it as you can weld the hole up.
I find this guy is a wealth of knowledge and worth watching
I know I have posted the same reply on another forum but no harm in sharing

Thank you again! I've been watching some of this guy's videos and he is extremely helpful.

Personally (I've done a goodly load of welding on Disco 1 shells) I would buy in the panel from either Froggatts or GDI Products.
Or remember it can't be seen ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293033539852
View attachment 492972
Is it a 3 door or a 5 door ?
If a 5 door have a very hard look at the state of the rear passenger door wheel arch panels and the rear wheel inner arch often goes where the D pillar meets it.

Taking the alloy outer wing off (or flexing it open on 3 doors) makes it much easier to do the job properly.

I probably will for this piece, but I've got a couple of areas which I can't seem to find repair panels for and I'd like to know how to do it anyway. It's a 5 door and both quarters are off; both of the door wheel arch pieces are in need of a bit of work! Thank you for the link.

 

[OJCar]

but I've got a couple of areas which I can't seem to find repair panels for

Pop some photos of the areas you are trying to get repair patches for on here.

Some bits you just can't get, eg the inner wing top panels.
Others, you can find the panel listed under Range Rover Classic.

The 5 door wheel arch panels (linky for photo id) that are available are pressed in much thinner metal than the unobtainable originals.
All the suppliers seem to be getting them from the same source.

I know what you mean about liking to know how to do the metal shaping, but sometimes you could make a lot of scrap and still not be as good as a pressing.
I think you need to shrink the metal in the orange are and stretch it in the blue area to start moving the patch back nearer to straight.
But I think you are do a LOT more shrinking and stretching in other bits before the patch panel is straight!

It's a 5 door

Here is the panel for the 4 Door RRC , if you notice the price is the same for the 2 door RRC.
You could buy the 2 door one and use front part you will need to cut off to help repair the other side ?

 

[Slowcoach]

I’d recommend starting again with a new piece of sheet. I think it’s been said but make the piece too big and trim afterwards. This gives more chance to clamp tightly and if using those hand clamps in picture they won’t clamp sufficiently. How are you putting the indent into the sheet, chasing with a chisel or another way.

 

[Ace Paul]

I think it’s been said but make the piece too big and trim afterwards.

If you’re doing that nut and bolt it to whatever. Or weld some shackles

 

[knighty]

personally...

after chipping out the rust I'd bend the 90' bend, get it fitting nice then start welding

once it's hot from the welding you should be able to tap it into the grooves as you go

and/or if it puts up a fight, weld all the flat bits in then heat the bits that need bending with a blowtorch and tap them id


depends if you want it fixed, or if you want it to look like it was never rotten in the first place I guess