JOEPRO
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So you think even in jump start mode it won't work on a dead battery?
Have you tried jump starting a car from it with nearly dead battery?
- Thread starter JOEPRO
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So you think even in jump start mode it won't work on a dead battery?
Have you tried jump starting a car from it with nearly dead battery?
JOEPRO
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Looking up Amazon de reviews and translating them it seems this is a no go for me 
I guess I do need an analogue one after all. By Sealey or similar.
To be clear I want a mains powered 12v constant power source that is able to jump start a dead car in a pinch.
I have a small booster pack and whilst it's great it only works for 20 secs or so and powers down.
Even on a healthy battery for some laptop diagnostic sessions I do need a heavy 12v power supply too a standard charger doesn't cut it.
I guess I do need an analogue one after all. By Sealey or similar.
To be clear I want a mains powered 12v constant power source that is able to jump start a dead car in a pinch.
I have a small booster pack and whilst it's great it only works for 20 secs or so and powers down.
Even on a healthy battery for some laptop diagnostic sessions I do need a heavy 12v power supply too a standard charger doesn't cut it.
addjunkie
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I have one of these, does cars, tractors, diggers….doesnt take upto much space. Odd Tayna batteries sell them.
arther dailey
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one way to check for parasitic draw , put a5 watt side lamp bulb between post and connection , you should just get the filiment to glow , if it lights you have a short/fault some where s.
arther dailey
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found this with the so ccalled inteligent ones I have tried , reverted to basic transformer model .Looking up Amazon de reviews and translating them it seems this is a no go for me
View attachment 475831
I guess I do need an analogue one after all. By Sealey or similar.
To be clear I want a mains powered 12v constant power source that is able to jump start a dead car in a pinch.
I have a small booster pack and whilst it's great it only works for 20 secs or so and powers down.
Even on a healthy battery for some laptop diagnostic sessions I do need a heavy 12v power supply too a standard charger doesn't cut it.
JOEPRO
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Thanks for that - you got me looking and I bought one of these which seems to be on a decent enough offer from Ring directly at present:
RCBT27 High Capacity Battery Charger
Ring TradeCharge 7 RCBT27 High Capacity Battery Charger with Jump Starter
shop.ringautomotive.com
It has low, high and starter boost function. Analogue charger so should work on a fully discharged battery- here's hoping!
I'll report back in a few days once it's arrived and I test it on my 300E-24. A 3L 6 cylinder will be a good test bed first. I doubt it would start a V12.
I like the shelf sized units over the floor standing heavier duty ones so let's see how this one does.
arther dailey
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it states not suitable for long term connectionThanks for that - you got me looking and I bought one of these which seems to be on a decent enough offer from Ring directly at present:
RCBT27 High Capacity Battery Charger
Ring TradeCharge 7 RCBT27 High Capacity Battery Charger with Jump Starter
It has low, high and sarter function. Analogue charger so should work on a fully discharged battery- here's hoping!
I'll report back in a few days once it's arrived and I test it on my 300E-24. A 3L 6 cylinder will be a good test bed first. I doubt it would start a V12.
I like the shelf sized units over the floor standing heavier duty ones so let's see how this one does.
JOEPRO
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Yes.
I will not be using this as a tickle charger I have plenty of those already!
I need a good starter / analogue "dumb" charger that's mains powered
ajlelectronics
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You don't lose a map, it goes back to factory defaults. What you lose is the fine adjustments made to the base map over time, responding to fuel type etc.
I think we are talking about two different things. I have a noticeably different fuel maps to standard on my D2 and D3 written to the ECU. They dont lose them with the battery disconnected for a prolonged period. Perhaps on some vehicles this may happen but none I have experienced. They might lose any 'learning' they have done perhaps if they have that capacity - i.e. auto gearbox control modules will adjust to compensate for wear etc as far as i know, which is what i think you mean but it will soon recompensate for that
ajlelectronics
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That is the point I was making. Yes they will recalibrate, but it is worth bearing in mind before disconnecting a battery.
Fair enough. I misunderstood. I thought you meant a remapped ECU would revert to the factory map.
ajlelectronics
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In a factory original ECU, not a modified one!
AVI_8
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That’s a fleet and a half!I could yes. But with 13 cars at my house it's very hard not to have one or two dead at any one time
I’d be interested if you do buy that charger that it will charge a very down on power battery, I got a Halfords charger last year which was supposed to be a smart charger and could bring a dead battery back to life, and it is very good but under 11 volts it’s not interested and as you mentioned have to connect jump leads to it from another car to get some power into it first.
Which kind of defeats the purpose.
JOEPRO
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I have ordered the Ring charger as noted in post #26 so I'll report back if it can start the 6 cylinder and if successful I'll try on a few others with larger engines. Fingers crossed.
I also ordered an AC DC clamp meter. I'm interested to see what current is actually drawn from my small booster pack VS the mains booster charger. 150amp boost from a mains charger may sound low but then what in the real world is a small portable booster putting out? Which I'll test. I have a small battery booster that can start everything but it's China so no real reliable rating on it but the DC amp clamp will tell me what pixies it's putting out.
I don't think there's much modern (probably anything new within the past 15-20 years) with an engine ECU that still uses volatile memory for adaptation values.
It was certainly a potential issue on older stuff designed when EEPROMs would never have lasted a year with daily writes though.
ajlelectronics
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I also have a wheely round 630a 12/24v thing besides the old trusty analog shelf one, I got it when the recifier inside went bad on old trusty and let out its magic smoke so I thought it had charged its last battery forever, but being a tinkerer I put a new rectifier in and fixed it later. Round the barn on concrete floors its not bad to wheel the monstrosity into position and it has its own parking space worked out now, and life became even better when I cut the croc leads off and fitted it with a anderson connector so it works with everything else I have for jumping/charging so a lot of the time I don't have to move it to use it.
I was amused when it arrived and the higher settings that are more capable of boiling a battery if forgotten are timed duration only, with a oldschool mechanical timer. You can hear it ticking like a bomb until a actual dinging bell rings inside the machine and it turns itself off. Its so mechanical it works even when its unplugged. It'd probably survive a nuclear war unscathed its so heavily built inside with just a transformer, a massive rectifier and the mechanical timer with two control knobs on the top.
Wiltec brand, I'm not sure they have that brand in the UK though, its another vevor/chinese branded stuff mark. Few years old now, still working ok. Nice to have options...
Onoff
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Bought my lad the Lidl one earlier this / last year when we were all taking about them. Charged it and left it in the car for emergencies. A colleague at his work needed a jump start / boost one day. Dead as a doornail.
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I've had that exact model for a few years now.
Works very well as a charger and a jump pack but as it's a smart charger, if the battery is below a certain voltage then it won't work at all.
Last time I had to charge a totally flat battery I had to connect another battery in parallel to get the charger to recognise it, then disconnect the spare battery once it started charging.
Works very well as a charger and a jump pack but as it's a smart charger, if the battery is below a certain voltage then it won't work at all.
Last time I had to charge a totally flat battery I had to connect another battery in parallel to get the charger to recognise it, then disconnect the spare battery once it started charging.
