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Memmeddu
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Electric die grinder.
First things out of the box have been, longer power cord and blue plug.
DeWalt big 230mm angle grinder did the exact same as both came with 1.2 meters long power cords.
Then I'll have to modify all my impacts to install the hook clip.
Drill and press a nut in place.
Bearings pullers I've thinned out one side of the jaws to have access to some bearings.
Olive oil steel can completely opened to use it as an oil bath.
My Stamos welder, new longer and thicker power cord, blue plug after little use.
New brass ground clamp, new electrode holder straight out of the box.
Fakita cordless angle grinder, greased the gearbox and deburred all the cooling ports which were practically clogged.
Fakita DTW300 clone dismantled the switch for deburring all the internal plastic moving parts to make it work.
Then there would be two rolling tool carts I'm going to buy next month wich I'll modify them straight out of the box.
Making a wider base in both directions on the 2/3 drawers + cabinet one, more load capacity casters on it.
Plywood top to have a flat surface without edges.
Drilled to bolt the other 7 drawers cart on it using the caster's holes as guide.
Resulting in 1.50 meters tall toolbox.
Erie Fred
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I posted it here awhile ago, bought a brand new hand pump logsplitter from Harbor Freight, and made it into a press brake.
Added a "backstop" actually on the one side, for doing multiple pieces.
Works great standing up in the corner of the shop as well., takes up very little room.
FWIW I don't need to split wood, and this has never seen a log.
Added a "backstop" actually on the one side, for doing multiple pieces.
Works great standing up in the corner of the shop as well., takes up very little room.
FWIW I don't need to split wood, and this has never seen a log.
Erie Fred
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I didn't remove a single thing.
I just added a "Metal Log" that holds the V die.
RWD3M
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Sorry for being a bit picture heavy but a year or so ago I bought a new rear subframe for Mrs RWD's Mini and tired of trying to get a jack underneath it at the back, I decided to modify the subframe to take a trolley jack centrally.
The pics show fairly clearly what I did but suffice to say, it involved closing in the rear cross beam and adding a strengthener to the middle of it.
I've also now had it fully galvanised and once it fails an MoT (fairly soon I expect!) it'll get fitted.
The pics show fairly clearly what I did but suffice to say, it involved closing in the rear cross beam and adding a strengthener to the middle of it.
I've also now had it fully galvanised and once it fails an MoT (fairly soon I expect!) it'll get fitted.
redlig
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I think he boasted "over 5000" modifications . I can remember saying how wrong was it to start with if it needed that many mods.
It probably started out as dustpan and brush.
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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I managed to kill a new Ryobi 2.2KW electric unit in 3 outings.... 
So I purchased a Hyundai ex-demo unit about 2 months ago, after giving up with electric type chippers.
Being as it was an ex-demo manufacturers unit the scars and slight damage of use are plain to see, the main problems being a strengthening rod that appears to tie the two outer sides together, but it runs through the middle of the waste exit outlet, so when you are shredding it catches/collects small branches/twigs which build up to block the outlet, so I have to stop the engine and clear the blockage.
I have collected some of the steel I need to modify the chipper shredder over Christmas/New Year hopefully.
The rotating cutter head seems well designed, but the outer surface of the cutting drum appears to be 1.6mm sheet and distorts allowing a larger gap between the end of the blades and the drum wall, thus reducing the shredders ability to shred. So this outer wall will be replaced with a 5mm thick sheet and external bracing to control deformation to a minimum, improving the shredding action.
I have used it for about 10 hours continuous use since purchasing it, it's a great chipper/shredder just needs some improvements to the design. I'll probably do a thread on the up grades, if anybody is interested...
So I purchased a Hyundai ex-demo unit about 2 months ago, after giving up with electric type chippers.
Being as it was an ex-demo manufacturers unit the scars and slight damage of use are plain to see, the main problems being a strengthening rod that appears to tie the two outer sides together, but it runs through the middle of the waste exit outlet, so when you are shredding it catches/collects small branches/twigs which build up to block the outlet, so I have to stop the engine and clear the blockage.
I have collected some of the steel I need to modify the chipper shredder over Christmas/New Year hopefully.
The rotating cutter head seems well designed, but the outer surface of the cutting drum appears to be 1.6mm sheet and distorts allowing a larger gap between the end of the blades and the drum wall, thus reducing the shredders ability to shred. So this outer wall will be replaced with a 5mm thick sheet and external bracing to control deformation to a minimum, improving the shredding action.
I have used it for about 10 hours continuous use since purchasing it, it's a great chipper/shredder just needs some improvements to the design. I'll probably do a thread on the up grades, if anybody is interested...
Jelly_Sheffield
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When I ended up with a second identical cordless drill by accident, I fitted the new one with a keyed chuck because I had wondered "what if" for years.
Been in use a few months now, and I can say unequivocally that it is an improvement over keyless chucks for metalworking use.
I really like it and would definitely do it again if I update my drills or switch battery system.
Been in use a few months now, and I can say unequivocally that it is an improvement over keyless chucks for metalworking use.
I really like it and would definitely do it again if I update my drills or switch battery system.
Memmeddu
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I would have fitted an Albrecht style chuck on it.
Something like a Metabo futuro top wich comes with 1/2" 20 threads
Jelly_Sheffield
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I explicitly wanted keyed, as I find they outperform even the best keyless chucks (mine are mostly Röhm) for sheer gripping power.
I have previously had issues with slipping chucks when using large reduced shank "blacksmiths drills", step drills, holesaws, and left handed drills, which the keyed chuck has (so far) eliminated.
I was also constrained by the ⅜×24 chuck nose, or would have gone with something a bit bigger.
The irony is that by fitting that subframe you might actually fail an mot! You are not supposed to modify suspension components, though I can understand why after working on a mini.
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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I doubt any mot tester would bother about the modification to the sub-frame, all their interested in is it rusty or has the strength been compromised enough to make dangerous before the next mot.
Anyway a quick "I replaced it with an aftermarket unit" would keep them quiet.
There are so many 4x4's running around with suspension lift/mod kits and body lift kits, rock sliders that that's not going to be a problem...
Let alone the modifications in.........Project Binky........
Last edited:
Morris
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Not sure a subframe is a suspension component. It carries the suspension but doesn't have any input in it's operation.
I know for sure that you are not supposed to weld the front subframe on a pug 205 but if you blend the patch in so it is invisible or make the welds look original, that's another matter....
That extra bit on the mini subframe is obviously not original and while it strengthens it up it will still be a 'modification'.
Perhaps one of our tame mot testers can comment?
@doubleboost @premmington
Morris
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MOT testers manual, Appendix A
"Welded repairs to highly stressed components are not normally acceptable, other than where the component is made up of sections that are welded together. To pass, the repair should appear to be as strong as the original design."
Not sure that rear section is"highly stressed" (no definition given) given the somewhat flimsy construction. I do know that welded additions to chassis's are ok as long as the original structure is unaltered.
"Welded repairs to highly stressed components are not normally acceptable, other than where the component is made up of sections that are welded together. To pass, the repair should appear to be as strong as the original design."
Not sure that rear section is"highly stressed" (no definition given) given the somewhat flimsy construction. I do know that welded additions to chassis's are ok as long as the original structure is unaltered.
RWD3M
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I get what you're saying, but unlikely.
RWD3M
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Or you can just keep your opinions to yourselves.I know for sure that you are not supposed to weld the front subframe on a pug 205 but if you blend the patch in so it is invisible or make the welds look original, that's another matter....
That extra bit on the mini subframe is obviously not original and while it strengthens it up it will still be a 'modification'.
Perhaps one of our tame mot testers can comment?
@doubleboost @premmington
