- Thread starter Memmeddu
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More Amps
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Time for a holiday in UK (with a big suitcase)
clift_d
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The difference will be mostly to do with installation of any fixings rather than the removal of them. You only need to have more than enough torque to remove a fixing but you need the correct amount of torque when you re-install it. The torque multiplication ratio quoted on the properly made examples, i.e. Norbar or similar, will take account of any losses in the gear train so you can have a reasonable degree of confidence that when put a torque wrench on the input you're going to be within a few percent of the required multiplied torque on the output. Anything else is just guesswork as to how many Nm you get with an "ugga-dugga".
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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Not necessarily so, my Snap-on X4 has a listed ratio of x4, but you calculate output at 3.7 to 1 stated in the torque multipliers instruction booklet, you have to allow for the input/output gears ratios' loss of torque
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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.... 
clift_d
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Exactly. With your Snap-on example the 4:1 will be the velocity ratio of the gearing, essentially worked out from the tooth count, and the 3.7:1 will be the torque output ratio with gear train losses factored in. The key thing is that you have a reasonably accurate way of working out exactly how much torque you're getting out for a known input, which isn't possible with cheaper "nut buster" torque multipliers. With the Norbar I have the torque ratio is quoted as being accurate to within ±4%, which is generally close enough for most purposes.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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In all seriousness I have to visit Italy a couple of times a year with work, sometimes I drive over if I feel like a weekend jolly across Europe rather than flying.
If you'd like I can send you a message when I have dates for next year.
Then if there's stuff you're looking for non-urgently that you could get more cheaply from UK suppliers, I can arrange to collect and bring it over as far as the port at Livorno.
Memmeddu
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Thanks.
But I live in Sardinia.
An option would be shipping when you're here in Italy but I won't make you lose time at the post office when you are surely busy with other important stuff.
The only really thing I'm not able to get outside UK are esab warrior face seal for my papr helmet.
I've found them on a UK seller but won't ship overseas
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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This is why I was saying I could only get stuff as far as the port at Livorno... Obviously whatever discounts you found would need to be cumulatively worth €140 and most of a day in travel time.
If you find yourself wanting to get anything big where it would make the hassle worth the potential saving buying at UK prices, the offer is still open.
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I did similar when I was servicing robots, one that springs to mind was a base axis motor change, the book method involves stripping the top of the robot off to gain access, but armed with a home made 2 foot long Tee handled allen key you could tip the robot on it's back and do the job from the bottom in a fraction of the time
I once worked for a company where times for jobs were worked out at head office with their technicians or sometimes imposed by a manufacturer, it was the best god damn job I ever had, the times were set by people that had no intention of putting them selves at any risk of having to work at anything other than a snails pace, we didn't get overtime till we hit 50hrs, something I could usually reach by mid Wednesday.I did similar when I was servicing robots, one that springs to mind was a base axis motor change, the book method involves stripping the top of the robot off to gain access, but armed with a home made 2 foot long Tee handled allen key you could tip the robot on it's back and do the job from the bottom in a fraction of the time
They went bust, it's no wonder.
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
- Messages
- 6,315
- Location
- Glapwell, Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK
I made a mini bespoke gantry for removing the hydraulic pump assembly when the drive/shear plate ripped its splines out.
Remove the exhaust assembly, bolt the gantry to the back of the engine, suspend the pump complete unit, undo the 2 bolts holding the pump unit to the bell housing, use a lever chain hoist to pull the pump backward without disconnecting any hoses, remove bellhousing cover plate, change the flex plate, reassemble.
About 1.5 hours for me if my van was by the machine, so I could use my air tools as well.
The main pump weighed 100/150 kg approx, normally 2 men in for a good mornings work, disconnecting hoses, lifting pump unit out/in.
The main problems were oily surfaces after the hose removal and the weight of the pump.... plus the whole thing is at chest/shoulder height... great fun
Remove the exhaust assembly, bolt the gantry to the back of the engine, suspend the pump complete unit, undo the 2 bolts holding the pump unit to the bell housing, use a lever chain hoist to pull the pump backward without disconnecting any hoses, remove bellhousing cover plate, change the flex plate, reassemble.
About 1.5 hours for me if my van was by the machine, so I could use my air tools as well.
The main pump weighed 100/150 kg approx, normally 2 men in for a good mornings work, disconnecting hoses, lifting pump unit out/in.
The main problems were oily surfaces after the hose removal and the weight of the pump.... plus the whole thing is at chest/shoulder height... great fun
