Exactly. As I said you can sometimes see the pressure gauge reading not doing what is expected but otherwise it's a none event.With water its fairly uneventful, as the water looses the stored energy of the pressure almost instantly. A pin hole and a dribble is most likely. With a gas its very different as gasses rapidly expand as part of the energy dispertion. I once saw a car tyre go pop, guy blowing it up was knocked on his back.
Would JB Weld be a suitable alternative?
Anyway, AliExpress looks cheaper than eBay.
Resolution of 0.1mm but also have to consider accuracy. I don't know wherever the claimed accuracy is reliable, but I'm not considering buying one anyway.JB Weld not good in tension. Supplement with old trainer laces around the outside. Double bow is the safety factor.
With the ultrasonic, it gives a resolution of 0.1mm. I do not know what the nominal wall thickness of that tank is, but, for instance 0.1mm is 10% of a 1mm wall or 5% of a 2mm wall so it might not be sensitive enough to tell you anything useful.
I guess you would have to investigate how these things are determined to be safe. If the document says "local thickness reduction of 3% is acceptable", you need something that can measure to that figure.
That's a great idea, but I have a better one:Cut it in half, measure thickness and if acceptable, weld back together - simples!![]()
Truth is I paid very little for the compressor. It was missing a few parts (easily replaced) but I knew it might have issues. That's why I was originally considering doing a pressure test.I would use it but build a cage around it from steel box and 18mm plywood with vents each end for air flow. Your comp,your choice.![]()
My first compressor was a big old 3 phase Broomwade with 300 liter tank, I had a look inside through the two manhole doors & it was very rusty. But after cleaning out it didnt look too bad, I derated it a bit & used it for years. But the tank was a good half inch thick so had some redundancy! Plenty of vids on you tube, they tend to fail along the bottom or seams & open up, anyone who ever put a tin of beans on a campfire will know how it goes!How do they fail when they go out of interest? Blow a hole that might cause a flap to burst out or blow up with shrapnel everywhere?
same here if the tank did go it would only pinhole at the bottom . i had a tank that was 80 years old and was solid but rust pitted and thats all it didI would simply up-end the tank and go around it with a ball pein hammer. If it's rotten then it will be rotten in the bottom or on the seam so if the hammer bounces everywhere but those places consider it dodgy. If there's no difference in the way the hammer reacts then I'd be satisfied that the metal is not significantly thinned by rust.
@Pete. I can see it's not rotten in the bottom, and the seams (that I can see) look good. It's the roof that appears most affected by the rust, presumably from condensation.I would simply up-end the tank and go around it with a ball pein hammer. If it's rotten then it will be rotten in the bottom or on the seam so if the hammer bounces everywhere but those places consider it dodgy. If there's no difference in the way the hammer reacts then I'd be satisfied that the metal is not significantly thinned by rust.
Maybe so, but I reckon an 80 year old tank would be considerably heavier construction / over engineered than this one.same here if the tank did go it would only pinhole at the bottom . i had a tank that was 80 years old and was solid but rust pitted and thats all it didonly thing ive had happen is rubber air hoses blister and balloon up and burst .
ive got a large tank on a twin pump and motor compressor thats over 20 year old it aint that thick but solid just turned it over and batted all along with the ball pein hammer and it never dented thats good enough for me there all a bit rusty inside . a 1 gallon oil can with crimped square ends will stand up to 50 psi before the crimped ends giveMaybe so, but I reckon an 80 year old tank would be considerably heavier construction / over engineered than this one.
If this is just for your own use, the standard test used in the ASME code and (parts of) the EN standards is:
"Not less than 1.1 and not more than 1.3 times the maximum working pressure".
In commercial use, you need a "suitably qualified and experienced person" to prepare a "written scheme of examination", then follow the recommendations set out in that scheme of evaluation.