Is it possible to fix this casting ?

[W.olly]

When I removed this starter motor I found this bolt flange was broken. I don't think it was there when removed and if it was I have cleaned up since sonics well gone.

There is another mount/bolt similar the other side..so a two bolt fitting.

Whats the chances and procedure to fix it if at all.

Or.ill.buy a new starter furniture.

 

[gordon stephenson]

If the housing is ally, I repaired a Toyota starter motor lug with Lumiweld etc `after "V" ing the brocken edges, worked fine, no trouble at all.

 

[W.olly]

If the housing is ally, I repaired a Toyota starter motor lug with Lumiweld etc `after "V" ing the brocken edges, worked fine, no trouble at all.

the is cast iron, i was wondering abotu a metal puttty or the likes. There is nothing on one face to V off.

I am looking at new starters and for sake of £120 its not bank breaker, well when i am getting more from America int he shopping list.

 

[Memmeddu]

It looks cast iron to me, again as above, if it was aluminum it would be possible, I do a lot of repairs like this.
Using an engine head valve stem to keep the hole clear and then stacking beads on it.
Unfortunately rust spots make me think it's cast iron and I've never done anything similar.
Of course I think you might use copper instead of the valve stem but I would be much difficult to re drill the hole

 

[Barking Mat]

Shorter bolt and suitable shim ?

 

[voipio]

Does the bolt need to turn or come out, or can you access the corresponding nut from the other side? If so, welding the bolt to the casting might be an option.

 

[Matchless]

Stick welder and cast iron rods or just mig it, but you need to cut half a lug off another casting, Cast won't weld well with a mig but it will weld! and yes I am a bodger!

 

[doubleboost]

silicone bronze repair
if you strip it i will weld it for you

 

[bricol]

I would imagine a suitable starter for a Chevy would be relatively cheap from the right places, so many around. I'd be worried the rest of it would fail at some point, either causing more damage, or at least leaving me stranded.

Although if it's been working fine up to now . . . can you arrange it so the reaction load of starting presses down on the bolt in the area of missing lug, rather than than pulling away from it?

 

[W.olly]

Shorter bolt and suitable shim ?

Worth a look but i think its the access to it once inplace that will make it difficult. Ill look intot he tonight cheers.

Does the bolt need to turn or come out, or can you access the corresponding nut from the other side? If so, welding the bolt to the casting might be an option.

Yes the bolt is bolted to the block.

silicone bronze repair
if you strip it i will weld it for you

Its a choice, thanks for that. Its a project i would like to have a go at. i have got a bad habit of just wanting to faff about trying to fix stuf, i dont really need to though lol. Found an exact new unit for £112. I am that bad i wanted to preserve the ball joints as they were stiff with dried grease. And i can buy new ones for £50 a pair.

I would imagine a suitable starter for a Chevy would be relatively cheap from the right places, so many around. I'd be worried the rest of it would fail at some point, either causing more damage, or at least leaving me stranded.

Although if it's been working fine up to now . . . can you arrange it so the reaction load of starting presses down on the bolt in the area of missing lug, rather than than pulling away from it?

Yes i found one for £112 for same unit. Oh yes plus duties from America, but i have other stuff to come from that shopping list.


Sat here now thinking. this car should of been on the road months ago, i just keep wanting to do stuff to it that is making it drag out longer. And these things dont really need doing. Like this starter, i can just buy a new one for not very much cant i. I have rebuilt the front end suspension which i didnt need to do to get it on the road. pulled out the engine completely to do just one helicoil.

Thanks all for replies.

 

[bricol]

That's the thing people do - and then loose interest as it's taking so long. I used to see project Lancias, people posting about complete stripping, complete rebuilds, perfect everything . . . roll on a few years, there's a stripped project for sale.

Meanwhile, I've been doing what you are supposed to do - driving the thing. It's never going to be a show car, but flippin' 'eck does it make even my morning commute a smile-athon

 

[8ob]

I would cut a steel tube and braze it to the starter casting.

 

[Bullet2012]

I would cut a steel tube and braze it to the starter casting.

View attachment 470959

The ones i have the casting covers completely across there.

 

[Melvyn Best]

A poor design in the first place but as 8ob suggested a steel crush tube even if not brazed , just clamped in place by the bolt, would work well

 

[marlinspike]

Sat here now thinking. this car should of been on the road months ago, i just keep wanting to do stuff to it that is making it drag out longer. And these things dont really need doing.

Project creep. Don't end up like me with your project still on the drive after years when you could have been enjoying it as a rolling restoration. We took some hoses out to change the starter the other week and now I'm replacing all the jubilee clips and derusting and painting the engine bay. You start thinking 'Might as well while the bits are out ...' and it never gets back on the road.

 

[Gritineye]

 

[graffian]

Why the gap, apart from the obvious huge saving on material?

Make a superstarter like thing?

 

[W.olly]

Hi folks.

Thanks for all the help on tnhis.

What i have done is get the Dremel out and do this. ill add a little metal putty under the washer to help level it out more and its good to go.

And if it works its a saving of £160 ish, so even better.
Daftf design from the start to have a small flange to take that pressure.