Underbody advice please?

[GRW]

My Renault Master Mk2 Camper Conversion I've spent so much time on this year - passed its MoT this morning with no advisories except I missed that 1 of the pair of number plate lights was out.
Happy days!
The underside is overall in very decent nick, & I'd like to keep it that way. However, I do have a bit of rust on the n/s outer sill behind the front wheel to sort, and I'm aware I need to rust-treat and protect the front jacking squares, and the rearmost leaf-spring mounts.

I do have a full Lamosil kit that I bought, but it occurs to me that the floor and chassis cavities might benefit from some other treatment. I hear "Dinitrol" being bandied about a lot on here.... would Dinitrol be a good choice?
(I could coat running gear & suspension with the Lamosil to give that some protection perhaps?)

Given that I don't want to dismantle the van, and I'd need to do the work lying underneath it with one end on my car ramps at a time, it needs to he something I can spray or paint on (I have a couple of compressors and a Shutz Gun and a Paraffin type gun, while the Lamosil kit comes with squirty applicator).

TIA for any assistance.
G.

 

[barracuda816]

Im not such a fan of lanolin based product (never used lamosil though) My go to is Bilt Hamber UC so I can see what's going on (it leaves a nice clear finish so doesn't hide the problems like a black goo) and Bilt Hamber s50 for cavities. Failing that control products are good too. I would spend more for the aerosols just for convienience for one vehicle.

But my most important piece of advice is what ever you use do it frequently, every 2 years or there abouts. Many people thing its a one shot and done. Its not.

 

[Erie Fred]

Will it be seeing salt ?

 

[GRW]

Will it be seeing salt ?

You can't avoid salt on UK roads unless you park up the vehicle for 3-months of the year, so yes

 

[Erie Fred]

You can't avoid salt on UK roads unless you park up the vehicle for 3-months of the year, so yes

I was thinking that these campers only see summer usage,
Many around here pay for inside storage of their campers in the winter.

Your camper usage must be more "adventuresome" than 99% of the people over here.
Most are being "put in storage" this month.

As I have posted before, i use lanolin based "fluid film" mixed with cosmolene.
I get the creeping action and "stay wet" action of the FF, and I get a skin over it with the cosmo, to provide
a stronger exterior to resist the spray coming off the road/wheels better. And it doesn't pick up dirt.

 

[GRW]

I was thinking that these campers only see summer usage,
Many around here pay for inside storage of their campers in the winter.

Mine gets used weekly all year round, as I use it as my base vehicle for mountain biking as well as perhaps the odd night out to a gig.... also I think regular use is better than standing idle for months.
They salt roads way too much here really, given the pretty mild temps and brief dips below freezing (& the minor back roads where its more likely to be needed - they don't salt, just main routes)

 

[OJCar]

I hear "Dinitrol" being bandied about a lot on here.... would Dinitrol be a good choice?

Dinitrol have a range of products.
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/

If you are wanting one to spray over the underside of the van after its has been washed then I would suggest Dinitol 3125
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/dinitrol-3125-hs
If you are doing inside the box members, doors, etc then I suggest Dinitrol ML
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/dinitrol-ml

I've been using their products on a number of vehicles,
from Garage Queen, daily driver and Off Road for quite a lot of years now.
Any failures have been down to me not doing the job properly.

 

[GRW]

Dinitrol have a range of products.
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/

If you are wanting one to spray over the underside of the van after its has been washed then I would suggest Dinitol 3125
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/dinitrol-3125-hs
If you are doing inside the box members, doors, etc then I suggest Dinitrol ML
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/dinitrol-ml

I've been using their products on a number of vehicles,
from Garage Queen, daily driver and Off Road for quite a lot of years now.
Any failures have been down to me not doing the job properly.

Great info, thanks
I'll look into those.
Any estimate on coverage and amount I'd need? It's a lwb just under 6 metres long by I'd guess just under 2 metres wide.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Only the other day I have one of these delivered ready for winter salted roads -

4000PSI Car Pressure Cleaner Washer Undercarriage Under Body Chassis Cleaning UK | eBay UK

【How to Set Up 】Quick connect straight wand to undercarriage cleaner. Then quick connect angled wand to the straight wand. Then quick connect your long trigger gun to angled wand. 1 x Undercarriage Cleaner.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[GRW]

Only the other day I have one of these delivered ready for winter salted roads -

4000PSI Car Pressure Cleaner Washer Undercarriage Under Body Chassis Cleaning UK | eBay UK

【How to Set Up 】Quick connect straight wand to undercarriage cleaner. Then quick connect angled wand to the straight wand. Then quick connect your long trigger gun to angled wand. 1 x Undercarriage Cleaner.

www.ebay.co.uk

Interesting gadget! I'm not sure I could connect that to my small cold water Karcher K4 gun though.
(I've no idea what psi the K4 achieves either - I'll have to try & look it up)

 

[OJCar]

Any estimate on coverage and amount I'd need? It's a lwb just under 6 metres long by I'd guess just under 2 metres wide.

I buy it by the case and try not to notice the cost!

I would guess about 8 of 3125 in the shultz cans
and depending on how much you want to do the box sections, 6 of the ML.

However if you look on this page ...
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/vehicle-rustproofing-kits
You can contact Dinitrol and tell them its a 1989 Chumley-Warner Snugglebum mark XX or whatever
and they will suggest what you need.

I notice there is a discount code on their home page,

 

[GRW]

I buy it by the case and try not to notice the cost!

I would guess about 8 of 3125 in the shultz cans
and depending on how much you want to do the box sections, 6 of the ML.

However if you look on this page ...
https://www.dinitroldirect.com/vehicle-rustproofing-kits
You can contact Dinitrol and tell them its a 1989 Chumley-Warner Snugglebum mark XX or whatever
and they will suggest what you need.

I notice there is a discount code on their home page,
View attachment 468323

That's great, thank you very much!
(Not looking forward to seeing the prices mind!)

 

[Erie Fred]

We get plenty of salt applied around here.

My vehicles are white on the sides with salt dust by winter's end.

Lawyers are the reason, too many won't slow down, nor use proper tires, so sue the DOT
when they crash.

and then, on some dirt roads, they apply salt in the summer as well.

 

[jo1010]

A cheap alternative to the brands is used engine oil - loved by (some of) the old landy community......in the 'old' days you never saw rust in an engine bay bc of the oil throwing abilities of the old engines....apply with schutz (how many different spellings of that are there, ha) gun, mix with atf if you want it less viscous, dries to a matt black, does drip off before it's dried ( onto strategically placed old newspaper), but after that nothing budges it ....so no, it doesn't drip all over the road causing a problem....as good as dinitrol IMO, and it's free...

 

[Erie Fred]

A cheap alternative to the brands is used engine oil - loved by (some of) the old landy community......in the 'old' days you never saw rust in an engine bay bc of the oil throwing abilities of the old engines....apply with schutz (how many different spellings of that are there, ha) gun, mix with atf if you want it less viscous, dries to a matt black, does drip off before it's dried ( onto strategically placed old newspaper), but after that nothing budges it ....so no, it doesn't drip all over the road causing a problem....as good as dinitrol IMO, and it's free...

I've tried everything out there, including used oil. even roofing tar mixed with used oil.

Engine oil has detergent in it, and it causes it to mix with the water, washing it off way too easily.

Also, "drive it down a dirt road after application"....doesn't work well, you end up with a mess, and the dirt laden oil just holds water/salt better. Lots-O-fun when wrenching on the vehicle as well.

Clean oil with something that skins over quickly keeps the vehicle clean.
Mine doesn't even drip off much on the pit ramps during application, yet stays wet under the skin to continue to creep, and not crack.

Free isn't always better.

Been doing this for over 35 years now.

 

[GRW]

I've tried everything out there, including used oil. even roofing tar mixed with used oil.

Engine oil has detergent in it, and it causes it to mix with the water, washing it off way too easily.

Also, "drive it down a dirt road after application"....doesn't work well, you end up with a mess, and the dirt laden oil just holds water/salt better. Lots-O-fun when wrenching on the vehicle as well.

Clean oil with something that skins over quickly keeps the vehicle clean.
Mine doesn't even drip off much on the pit ramps during application, yet stays wet under the skin to continue to creep, and not crack.

Free isn't always better.

Been doing this for over 35 years now.

Funnily enough, I have mused about something like chainsaw chain oil.
Good anti-fling properties but viscous enough to spray.....
Thoughts?

 

[Roger440]

Im not such a fan of lanolin based product (never used lamosil though) My go to is Bilt Hamber UC so I can see what's going on (it leaves a nice clear finish so doesn't hide the problems like a black goo) and Bilt Hamber s50 for cavities. Failing that control products are good too. I would spend more for the aerosols just for convienience for one vehicle.

But my most important piece of advice is what ever you use do it frequently, every 2 years or there abouts. Many people thing its a one shot and done. Its not.

Dinitrol is good, used it for years, but for cavities, Bilt Hamber S50 in a spray can is better, if not the best ive found so far.

UC is good also, but doesnt cope well in high impact areas as well as a proper black underseal. For that i dinitrol wins.

 

[Trevorleach]

Any cheap chassis wax with some clean engine oil added (say 10/15 percent) will do okay, the oil, will hopefully creep into cavities/panel overlaps etc but i twill need topping up annually in the wheel arches etc, even then you still need to keep an eye on things, and it is an ongoing battle.

I think lano stuff is bit of a gimmick.

 

[Smallfry]

Bilt Hamber S50 for cavities and UB or UC for the underside. DO NOT fall for the lanolin adverts, it is a waste of time.

The Mk2 is fairly rust resistant unless it has been damaged. It is only really the front jacking points that go. This then rusts out the sills if left.

I cut them right out.

 

[GRW]

Bilt Hamber S50 for cavities and UB or UC for the underside. DO NOT fall for the lanolin adverts, it is a waste of time.

The Mk2 is fairly rust resistant unless it has been damaged. It is only really the front jacking points that go. This then rusts out the sills if left.

I cut them right out.

I've got some rust coming through on the outer sill opposite the jack point - so I've some investigating and work to do there.
It's just passed MoT yesterday though, so I'm hoping not to find anything too terrible.
My issue now is the worsening weather (not that we get much dry weather, just warmer rain here in West Wales) and the fact I've not got anywhere to work on it under cover.