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hotponyshoes
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Chamfering tool is a good option.
Cheap pneumatic ones are available if you have a compressor already?
Otherwise, I'd prefer a belt sander/linisher to a bench grinder.
Watts, as many as you can. More power = faster removal.
Depends on the bevel size and speed required as to how many Watts you actually 'need'
Basically, a budget, 150w bench grinder will be horrible to use for any bevelling.
A 350-500w budget one would probably be ok for practice pieces/low volume.
750w upwards would be my choice.
Don't forget Chinese Watts are about half that of a good quality used machine.
Cheap pneumatic ones are available if you have a compressor already?
Otherwise, I'd prefer a belt sander/linisher to a bench grinder.
Watts, as many as you can. More power = faster removal.
Depends on the bevel size and speed required as to how many Watts you actually 'need'
Basically, a budget, 150w bench grinder will be horrible to use for any bevelling.
A 350-500w budget one would probably be ok for practice pieces/low volume.
750w upwards would be my choice.
Don't forget Chinese Watts are about half that of a good quality used machine.
Why not get o:ne of these chamfering tools - I'm told that they are very good:
hotponyshoes
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Also, you have to hold the steel to grinder it on a bench grinder.
If it's thick, heavy pieces a chamfering tool is a lot easier.
Or a hand-held angle grinder. They are usually more powerful for the same price (although consumable cost is more)
If it's thick, heavy pieces a chamfering tool is a lot easier.
Or a hand-held angle grinder. They are usually more powerful for the same price (although consumable cost is more)
hotponyshoes
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The main downside with the chamfering tools (above) is the maximum chamfering size.
Depends how thick your thick steel is.
Bigger ones are available but I've not seen cheap versions.
Depends how thick your thick steel is.
Bigger ones are available but I've not seen cheap versions.
Agroshield
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If these are practice coupons, as above, what thickness and size of metal are you using?
If the piece is not more than maybe 100mm wide, maybe an abrasive chop saw or a slow-speed metal cutting saw would do. This one says 119mm capacity: https://www.makitauk.com/product/lw1400.html . You can set the vice at an angle, cut the bevel, get two bevels for the price of one (assuming 45 degree bevel) and just tickle with a grinder to put the land on it. If you are cutting your test pieces out of for example 100 x 20 flat bar, stack two or three togehter when cutting.
Cutting the bevel turns the least amount of material from the raw stock into swarf/sparks (just the width of the blade) so will be quickest - compare with grinding a 45 degree slice off a square edge.
If the piece is not more than maybe 100mm wide, maybe an abrasive chop saw or a slow-speed metal cutting saw would do. This one says 119mm capacity: https://www.makitauk.com/product/lw1400.html . You can set the vice at an angle, cut the bevel, get two bevels for the price of one (assuming 45 degree bevel) and just tickle with a grinder to put the land on it. If you are cutting your test pieces out of for example 100 x 20 flat bar, stack two or three togehter when cutting.
Cutting the bevel turns the least amount of material from the raw stock into swarf/sparks (just the width of the blade) so will be quickest - compare with grinding a 45 degree slice off a square edge.
Wildefalcon
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500watts
ELL
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8mm thick mild, bevel for a groove butt weld.
ELL
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8mm thick mild, bevel for a groove butt weld.
gaz1
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i did the same was easier to cut it with the slitting disc in a hand grinder than take a long time grinding it at an angle
E T
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I have one of those. Does a lovely job, but not for weld prep on thick steel. Biggest chamfer it can do is 3mm.
For short bevels on thinner stuff I use the angry grinder, for longer bevels and thicker steel the plasma.
I don't like all that grinding dust in the shop.
MetalMonkey
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Angle grinder with a cubitron fibre disc.
It will give you a much flatter and more even chamfer than a stone. It's also very fast and easy to control the size of chamfer.
It will give you a much flatter and more even chamfer than a stone. It's also very fast and easy to control the size of chamfer.
I may well be wrong, but I was under the impression that those pneumatic chamfer thingies used a triangular carbide lathe tool insert and by adjusting the ammount of stick out you could cut up to the length of the insert side. No doubt the wider you go the rate of cutting would have to reduce as I don't expect that their turbines are very powerful.
Erie Fred
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Yes, I bought one a few months ago.
Yes, it works like that.
No, it will do 1/4" max.
Mine jammed up after a couple of hours usage.
Agroshield
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They work by raising or lowering the base, which has the effect of altering cutter stickout. However, the factory adjustment range is finite and its range is less than the full insert side length.
In addition, the cutter is bearing-guided (bottom bearing), so that would make it challenging to chamfer full depth of the material. It would be possible by clamping something to the underside of the stock for the bearing to run on, but it would be a pain.
E T
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I had to know so I went into the shop.
The sides of the inserts are 7.5mm long but with the base adjusted all the way up for max depth of cut only about 4.5mm is protruding.
And from that 4.5mm at least 1mm is hiding behind that bottom bearing and can't make contact with the workpiece.
The only way to make deeper cuts would be to mill some material of the base.
The sides of the inserts are 7.5mm long but with the base adjusted all the way up for max depth of cut only about 4.5mm is protruding.
And from that 4.5mm at least 1mm is hiding behind that bottom bearing and can't make contact with the workpiece.
The only way to make deeper cuts would be to mill some material of the base.
