Cast repair may be needed.

[Exuptoy]

I can buy this part made from steel not fragile cast for around £150 on eBay but I was just putting feelers out if anyone thinks they could repair this and at what cost?

It’s had one repair before by the looks of it as these a weld obvious from the back side.

One of the small gears snapped first and I didn’t look any further than to just replace the gear. I have loads of other gears. Obviously something else caused the first damage. The gear was just one of those Zamak materials so it let go first.

 

[6ply]

If you have a 3d printer you can manufacture your own perfectly serviceable change gears at very low cost. I did several for a lathe I previously owned and they never showed any signs of wear. Amazing really.

 

[6ply]

An example

 

[prepman]

I can buy this part made from steel not fragile cast for around £150 on eBay but I was just putting feelers out if anyone thinks they could repair this and at what cost?

It’s had one repair before by the looks of it as these a weld obvious from the back side.

One of the small gears snapped first and I didn’t look any further than to just replace the gear. I have loads of other gears. Obviously something else caused the first damage. The gear was just one of those Zamak materials so it let go first.

View attachment 457655

View attachment 457654

There is a design flaw as the keyway root is too close to the tooth dwell root. Could repair/rejoin it by brazing 2 pieces of keysteel into the broken key pieces. Making a stronger male key? If that is even feasible?

 

[oldbikedavey]

Worth laser cutting a steel blank and then machining to a finished item ?

 

[Agroshield]

What machine is it off?

As above, a laser cut replacement in steel would be less than £150*. Clean it up and draw around it with a fine pencil. Scan the drawing (not photograph as it will distort), post it here and we can make a dxf for you.

Supplementary question: when you laser cut something, can you specify the pierce (start/end) point for the contours? The slots in the above item would be better pierced at their ends rather than somewhere along the straight bit.

* The only finishing you would need to do is the circular bore, splitting with a hacksaw where your thumb is covering so it clamps and drilling and tapping the clamping bolt hole. The circular bore could be done carefully with a drum sander if you did not want to to single point bore it. The slots would be OK straight from the cutter and being cut from steel plate, the faces would be parallel enough. The machined features of the original are because it is cast, not necessarily because they actually need to be machined.

 

[Exuptoy]

There is a design flaw as the keyway root is too close to the tooth dwell root. Could repair/rejoin it by brazing 2 pieces of keysteel into the broken key pieces. Making a stronger male key? If that is even feasible?

The gear isn’t a problem, I had 3 spares for speed changes. Theyre cheap enough on the bay too. It’s the gear carrier for the auto feed is my issue.

This bit.

 

[Exuptoy]

What machine is it off?

As above, a laser cut replacement in steel would be less than £150*. Clean it up and draw around it with a fine pencil. Scan the drawing (not photograph as it will distort), post it here and we can make a dxf for you.

Supplementary question: when you laser cut something, can you specify the pierce (start/end) point for the contours? The slots in the above item would be better pierced at their ends rather than somewhere along the straight bit.

* The only finishing you would need to do is the circular bore, splitting with a hacksaw where your thumb is covering so it clamps and drilling and tapping the clamping bolt hole. The circular bore could be done carefully with a drum sander if you did not want to to single point bore it. The slots would be OK straight from the cutter and being cut from steel plate, the faces would be parallel enough. The machined features of the original are because it is cast, not necessarily because they actually need to be machined.

It’s from an Atlas 10F TV41 lathe from 1941.

 

[Exuptoy]

If you have a 3d printer you can manufacture your own perfectly serviceable change gears at very low cost. I did several for a lathe I previously owned and they never showed any signs of wear. Amazing really.

It’s not the gear that’s my problem, it’s the gear change yoke.

 

[prepman]

The gear isn’t a problem, I had 3 spares for speed changes. Theyre cheap enough on the bay too. It’s the gear carrier for the auto feed is my issue.

This bit.
View attachment 457712

Ahhh!

 

[Agroshield]

It’s from an Atlas 10F TV41 lathe from 1941.

Is it this one?

Atlas 10 Inch lathe Banjo Bracket (10-25) by timon

Atlas Lathe Banjo Bracket Part number 10-25. I got a lathe that was missing this part and decided that i might as well try to try to print one while i wait to get a replacement.Ideally, this design will morph into a replacement that can either be printed and reinforced for use or printed and...

www.thingiverse.com

If it is correct, you could print one to confirm it has been modelled correctly. They give you an OpenSCAD mode, from which it is not so bad to get a dxf outline of it for laser cutting (biggest problem with OpenSCAD is is does not export arcs to dxf as arcs, but as a gazillion straight lines).

There seems to be a good supply of used cast iron ones in the US, for a lot less than £150.

https://www.ebay.com/p/529827604 (and look at the associated items lower down the listing).

 

[Exuptoy]

I have just sourced an original rough casting from Michael Kurn who owns the rights to the Atlas brand in the U.K., after his father in law bought everything after the war, I’ve just finished emailing him.
I bought bits from him in the past. He’s retired now and just likes to support the product if he can.
He said the drawing of the actual part is available from Clausing in the states.
Cost me £50 inc post! Awesome.

 

[Exuptoy]

Is it this one?

Atlas 10 Inch lathe Banjo Bracket (10-25) by timon

Atlas Lathe Banjo Bracket Part number 10-25. I got a lathe that was missing this part and decided that i might as well try to try to print one while i wait to get a replacement.Ideally, this design will morph into a replacement that can either be printed and reinforced for use or printed and...

www.thingiverse.com

If it is correct, you could print one to confirm it has been modelled correctly. They give you an OpenSCAD mode, from which it is not so bad to get a dxf outline of it for laser cutting (biggest problem with OpenSCAD is is does not export arcs to dxf as arcs, but as a gazillion straight lines).

There seems to be a good supply of used cast iron ones in the US, for a lot less than £150.

https://www.ebay.com/p/529827604 (and look at the associated items lower down the listing).

That’s amazing!

 

[Exuptoy]

That will teach me to maintain the bloody thing instead of just expecting it to do what it should when called upon.

 

[Agroshield]

He said the drawing of the actual part is available from Clausing in the states.

Have a look on vintagemachinery.org as if the drawing is available, there is a good chance it will be there.

 

[Exuptoy]

I found this stuff.

M

 

[Exuptoy]

Just going through my pics from when I got the lathe and I found this pic of a gearbox that someone had tried building!!!! It’s only sat in my bloody cupboard!

 

[ukracer]

Obviously you are sorted now but I reckon that would be an interesting Saturday Night Special for @doubleboost .

Plasmacut with his new software and the recess in slots cut with the miller.

Small amount of milling on a rotary table. Obviously not a cost effective paying job but certainly an interesting SNS.

 

[Exuptoy]

He’s welcome if he want to.
I dare say I’d pay for one in steel.

 

[oldbikedavey]

You might consider laser cutting two profiles, one for each side, and somehow joining the two together , riveted, or whatever....