Decorator's caulk

[Welderpaul]

Is there a decorator's caulk out there that doesn't shrink and crack? I've tried loads and had settled on an Everbuild product that seemed to be ok but that seems to crack, not so bad under oil based paint, but emulsion is a nightmare.

 

[brightspark]

everbuild caulk once is one of the best it doesnt shrink or slump and is fast drying . i use it and worth the extra money dont ever use the toolstation or screwfix krap soudal or no nonsense

 

[Onoff]

Give the new C-Tec FC1 a go maybe?

 

[Welderpaul]

everbuild caulk once is one of the best it doesnt shrink or slump and is fast drying . i use it and worth the extra money dont ever use the toolstation or screwfix krap soudal or no nonsense

Soudal caulk is horrible, not only does it shrink but it bleeds too. I ended up using Zinsser 123 to seal everywhere i'd used it then two coats emulsion over it.
The low expansion expanding foam and polyeurethane glue is good though.

 

[Welderpaul]

Give the new C-Tec FC1 a go maybe?

Good shout, i will give it a go.

Technical info.. cannot be sanded. First bad review. Cannot be sanded.

 

[Onoff]

The low expansion expanding foam and polyeurethane glue is good though.

I'm a huge fan of the Soudal low expansion foam.

For regular foam then nothing beats Illbruck FM330. Flexible but with a tough outer skin and airtight too. Reassuringly expensive mind.

 

[Smallfry]

Everbuild Once or Geocel Painters Mate.

Not a pro, but cant think of any others that are any good. Also, not being a pro, I tend to leave them for a day before painting over.

 

[MattF]

For regular foam then nothing beats Illbruck FM330. Flexible but with a tough outer skin and airtight too. Reassuringly expensive mind.

If you're using expanding foam, there should generally be some type of sealant going over it, (silicone, mortar or suchlike), so those ought be relatively moot points.

 

[angellonewolf]

I found this more by accident when we had a very big 15 room Build at work I was doing all the painting

Was at a proper Dec place as screwfix and tool station was out of the paint we where using as I was using so much went there as they had loads of tubs

I tryed quite a few caulk in that time and all cracked or moved

This one not perfect but the best of the bunch paintable after an hour if only standard bead with water based paint

Goes on very easy
Is not cheap around 4 quid a tube but saves time and lasts mor than the others

 

[Onoff]

If you're using expanding foam, there should generally be some type of sealant going over it, (silicone, mortar or suchlike), so those ought be relatively moot points.

FM330 is the go to foam for builders seeking an insulated, airtight joint around window and door frames for instance. Useful where you can't fit Compriband on say a retrofit. Bear in mind a lot of passive esque builds won't have mortar anywhere and external silicone beads degrade.

I didn't believe how good it was until I tried it.

 

[Dcal]

I've a few old reclaimed panel doors where the mouldings had huge gaps that were filled with linseed oil putty and newspaper. (1860 Irish independent to be precise)

I removed everything I could and refitted, then filled the remaining gaps with polyurethane sealant and tooled it with a plastic body filler spreader while it was wet.
Let it go off and painted as normal.

It's still pretty much perfect 10 years later.
It takes slightly longer but it will last forever.

Whatever you use, don't use Pollysulfide sealer, the paint won't dry over it.

 

[bricol]

Seem to recall my dad mixing red lead into putty for a filler - probably not the thing to do these days

 

[Turbo]

Never found a caulk that doesn't crack with water based paint. The trick is to first paint over with an oil based paint, let it dry then put on your emulsion. I do that when I'm doing the doors & skirting,