As the title. I need a small amount of epoxy glue and I'm debating on whether it's worth buying a large pack or just a small syringe. If the the large amount was mixable with some sort of metal filler, it could have multiple uses. Would it be the same as JB weld or Belzona? Ok Belzona's probably pushing it a bit far, as that stuff can't be expensive without reason.
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oldbikedavey
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What's the task in hand ?
Bullet2012
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WEST SYSTEM G Flex 655 Dispensing Syringe
WEST SYSTEM G Flex 655 Dispensing Syringe The West System G/flex 655 is toughened epoxy that makes permanent, waterproof, structural bonds. It absorbs the stresses of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. G/flex adheres tenaciously to HDPE, LDPE, ABS, PVC, Polycarbonate and Hypalon...
lindonlewismarine.co.uk
Wildefalcon
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Yes. Add aluminium fillings to epoxy glue and you you get epoxy filler, but belzona has more epoxies than the cheap stuff, and so it's stronger.
Well I was specifically looking at Devcon 5 minute epoxy:
addjunkie
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Belzona is extremely good stuff, though pricey. But a couple of hundred quid for belzona to fix a 3 million pound pump to keep your 150 million a day production going its an absolute bargain.
Devcon is good also, but there are so many variants of these things you need to get the right product for the task.
Sounds to me like Araldite would do what your looking for.
pedrobedro
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Araldite or any similar product will stick wood to metal, most of my knife handles will attest to that. You don't exactly explain "bonding steel to wood".
I've got steel dowels that are 19.7mm in diameter. They pass through 20mm diameter holes in timber. The timber is 25mm thick.
I need to make it so that the timber doesn't move. I've thought about self tappers but it's awkward, and glueing it is simply easier. The dowels do not need to be concentric with the holes.
Araldite etc has been considered. They're all roughly similar prices for similar quantities. Even the cheapest stuff is £10 for 4 packs (100ml total).
Which is why I considered buying 250ml of devcon for under £20. I won't need that much, but I'll use it up eventually. And if it can be mixed with fillers to change it's properties, that's great.
I need to make it so that the timber doesn't move. I've thought about self tappers but it's awkward, and glueing it is simply easier. The dowels do not need to be concentric with the holes.
Araldite etc has been considered. They're all roughly similar prices for similar quantities. Even the cheapest stuff is £10 for 4 packs (100ml total).
Which is why I considered buying 250ml of devcon for under £20. I won't need that much, but I'll use it up eventually. And if it can be mixed with fillers to change it's properties, that's great.
You can use a variety of fillers if you want. Depends on how tight a fit.
Most important is to roughen the steel as much as you can. Epoxy hates smooth shiny steel.
Devcon is great as is JB Weld and most other leading brands.
Slow set epoxy is definitely stronger than the rapid set but as @Dcal says either will be stronger than the wood anyway.
Using a typical 2 part epoxy and a roughened steel dowel into wood you will get a tensile strength of around 1900kg per dowel - assuming the wood doesn't fail of course
No the metal filler is just an idea for potential uses in the future.
You can use a variety of fillers if you want. Depends on how tight a fit.
Most important is to roughen the steel as much as you can. Epoxy hates smooth shiny steel.
Devcon is great as is JB Weld and most other leading brands.
Slow set epoxy is definitely stronger than the rapid set but as @Dcal says either will be stronger than the wood anyway.
Using a typical 2 part epoxy and a roughened steel dowel into wood you will get a tensile strength of around 1900kg per dowel - assuming the wood doesn't fail of course
There won't be a lot of force acting on it. I just need something that will fill the gap and bond to wood and steel.
I'll see how my test piece with no more nails has done in a bit. It might actually work...
I definitely wouldn't use something like no more nails.
JB Weld probably the best if they are a loose fit.
Why the need for any filler, if the glue line is going to be 0.15mm thick? The challenge is getting the glue into the gap. Heating the bar would reduce the viscosity of mixed epoxy to the point that it should flow quite well into gaps such as this, with the added benefit of reducing the setting time of the glue.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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But why the filler....sorry couldn't resist
.I mix fillers into my epoxy all the time...my preferred is ground glass but no reason you can't mix in whatever filler is appropriate for the job at hand. I use fillers to bulk out and make the epoxy more manageable.
For moulding I quite like Milliput which comes in various colours...it's saved me quite a few times doing quick repairs on drains or roofs for example!
graffian
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If you read the product sheets for resins, you will usually see the differences in properties of the resins with the different hardeners.
I used to use Ampreg 20 resin, the difference with the fastest and slowest hardener was considerable better everything that was measured
the slower the cure time. I am talking about a fast hardener that made a resin that cured in a matter of hours, while the slow hardener made
a resin that took weeks to cure.
Elevated cure temperature also improves properties of cured resin.
If you just wanted to thicken resin they flog various microball products for making the resin more thixotropic, I used one called pregel
with Ampreg20 for gluing laminates together.
