Is this a problem and how do I disassemble? Drill press components.

[TheJay]

The old bearings would best be removed with a proper tool and a press/puller. New bearings should be pressed on - pressure only on the inner race. Once removed those bearings are very likely not re-usable, even if they are not already sh*gged.




Where/what is actually ‘catching?

Okay, so what do I need to order to remove?

It's hard to explain. I don't know whether some of the bearings are bad anyway as they don't spin freely and there is a particular point there is more resistance. I am struggling to explain, maybe a short clip will help you see?

NTN 6206Z

 

[Agroshield]

The issue is when rotating it seems as though something catches on each complete rotation/a set point in rotation.

The inner race of each bearing is a tight fit on the outside of the splined sleeve.

If there is something catching as the assembly is rotated, it has nothing to do with the splined sleeve. The notchiness is between the inner bearing race, the balls within and the outer bearing race. You could remove the splined sleeve and the problem would still be there.

It is not clear what the end-on view down the splined sleeve is showing. If it is just a ridge in the bore, so what? The inner quill only ever slides up and down in the splined sleeve. The external damage looks like some kind of fretting, caused by a loose pulley.

The splined sleeve will be impossible to find as a spare part for a 1981 cheap overseas drill press. It will be prohibitively expensive to re-make. Thus, it should be preserved. Once the bearings have been removed, it could be turned down and sleeved if necessary. Alternatively, it could be cleaned up and the pulley bushed to a smaller size to suit.

Bearings are cheap. If they are toast, cut them off. Just be careful not to nick the shaft when cutting the inner race. You do not even need to cut 100% through the inner race. Cut 90% through in two opposing places and drive a chisel into the slit. If you damage the nylon spacer washer while cutting the bearings, that is easy to replace.

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your reply. That's good to know, I have ordered new bearings.

What does "turned down and sleeved" mean?

What specific tool is supposed to be used to remove the bearings if not cutting? I can't understand how it's done.

 

[Misterg]

What specific tool is supposed to be used to remove the bearings if not cutting? I can't understand how it's done.

They are almost certainly pressed onto the shaft and would need to be pressed off again. You would need a sleeve that fits over the threaded end of the shaft that bears on the inner race of one of the bearings, then press them off as a pair while supporting the other end of the shaft with something smaller than the ID of the bearings. If they were also loctited on you'll probably need to get the whole thing smoking hot to get them to release. Press the new bearings on one at a time, again only pressing on the inner race. There should also be a spacer between the inner races that would need to go back on again.

That 'crack' in the shaft looks like a lap/seam fault in the original metal bar. IMHO there's nothing you can do about it - either ignore it or remake the part.

 

[dan treg]

to remove just need a standard bearing removal tool 3 or 4 jaw puller or maybe a wheel bearing puller or frankly you could just cut them off they will be scrap anyway

 

[Morrisman]

Whenever I rebuilt motors or pumps offshore I used an electric hot plate to heat the bearings up. Once they reached 150c, measured with an infra red temp gun, they’d slip over whatever shaft they were going on quite easily. They were always sealed bearings, and the heat never affected the seals or grease inside.

Getting the old ones off was always a ball ache, big pullers, and an air rattle gun to wind them off. Some of the bearings were 4” OD so cutting them off would have been a real chore.

 

[TheJay]

to remove just need a standard bearing removal tool 3 or 4 jaw puller or maybe a wheel bearing puller or frankly you could just cut them off they will be scrap anyway

Like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255373930792

How would it fit on the shaft to pull off the bearings?

 

[TheJay]

Whenever I rebuilt motors or pumps offshore I used an electric hot plate to heat the bearings up. Once they reached 150c, measured with an infra red temp gun, they’d slip over whatever shaft they were going on quite easily. They were always sealed bearings, and the heat never affected the seals or grease inside.

Getting the old ones off was always a ball ache, big pullers, and an air rattle gun to wind them off. Some of the bearings were 4” OD so cutting them off would have been a real chore.

I don't think the plastic spacer would survive getting to that temperature.

 

[Morrisman]

I don't think the plastic spacer would survive getting to that temperature.

You don’t need to get the spacer hot, just drop one bearing on, then the spacer, then the other bearing.

 

[TheJay]

You don’t need to get the spacer hot, just drop one bearing on, then the spacer, then the other bearing.

Oh, so this is when adding the new bearings rather than trying to remove the old ones?

 

[Morrisman]

Oh, so this is when adding the new bearings rather than trying to remove the old ones?

Yes, fitting new ones. I should have clarified a bit more.

 

[TheJay]

Thanks. Can someone please link me to the exact product that will enable me to remove and refit these types of bearings from a shaft?

 

[Agroshield]

Can someone please link me to the exact product that will enable me to remove and refit these types of bearings from a shaft?

See post #23 above for the removal tool. You will also need something for the screw to bear on when jacking off.

Different tool to reinstall - just a bench vice and a sleeve. Alternatively, a piece of threaded rod and some nuts through the middle of the spindle.

Drop gaz1 here on the forum a message. He has a large library of home movies that touch on most questions asked here. He would be able to recommend one from his collection that deals with bearing removal.

 

[Other Daniel]

See post #23 above for the removal tool. You will also need something for the screw to bear on when jacking off.

Different tool to reinstall - just a bench vice and a sleeve. Alternatively, a piece of threaded rod and some nuts through the middle of the spindle.

Drop gaz1 here on the forum a message. He has a large library of home movies that touch on most questions asked here. He would be able to recommend one from his collection that deals with bearing removal.

Calling @gaz1 ....

 

[gaz1]

im sorry but in this case im not needed

but from what i see your going to have nothing but trouble taking that bearing off and that split will get in the way for the bearing being removed

i suspect you may need to hacksaw that bearing off if your just going after size measurements for a new piece being made up

 

[TheJay]

Yep, having taken the shield off and seen the bearings I understand why it's nearly impossible to remove them without having to scrap them. Presumably aoolying force to the outside of the bearing puts too much pressure on the bearings in attempting to move the inner piece of the bearing.

I will be cutting them off as everyone suggested! Ordered some new bearings. I know someone who has a lathe and TIG and has suggested cutting a v into the area affected by the crack, fill it and then machine it back to the right dimensions.

 

[TheJay]

I haven't got a clue how to remove these due to the metal bit behind the bearing on each end. Someone, please tell me how this is done

Thanks

 

[Other Daniel]

I would use this...

 

[TheJay]

I saw a lot of those when scouring eBay and Amazon has reviews/images of the threaded parts snapping and bending. I was tempted.

 

[Other Daniel]

I saw a lot of those when scouring eBay and Amazon has reviews/images of the threaded parts snapping and bending. I was tempted.

That's just a generic image I plucked from the Google search,
to describe the type of tool I had in mind.
You could always buy a better quality one.
Relatively speaking, I doubt your bearings will be very tight on the shaft.