Best floor for Workshop

[Rick]

Hello,

I've just completed my new engine building room. Its all clean apart from the floor.

I've just got some self levelling compound to make the floor nice and level tomorrow. But not sure what to do ontop of this. It should be clean and get an easy ish life. But at some point it'll probably get some large bit of steel dropped on it. (alternator/flywheel/bottom pulley etc)

I thought about something similar to hospital type floors. Karndean or lino. Possibly just paint, but with only 5mm of self levelling I think it'll crack away from the concrete.

Any suggestions?

 

[Bobtail4x4]

If you can get hold of it, lay conveyor belting down,

 

[Shedendman]

Only lay neat leveling compound if your going to put a covering on top,ie tiles etc if you can afford it have a look at these
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...floor-tiles-pk6/path/workshop-flooringmatting

or
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produ...oogle&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Motorsport

If not when you mix up your latex also mix in some fine sharp sand with a small amount of pva let it go off a few days then a few coats of decent concrette floor paint polyurethane Floor Paint is best eg
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p26665

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Costco do the same tiles as those in the first link above, I'm sure they're just over half that price too [but it's a while since I was in there].

 

[Pete.]

Hello,

I've just completed my new engine building room. Its all clean apart from the floor.

I've just got some self levelling compound to make the floor nice and level tomorrow. But not sure what to do ontop of this. It should be clean and get an easy ish life. But at some point it'll probably get some large bit of steel dropped on it. (alternator/flywheel/bottom pulley etc)

I thought about something similar to hospital type floors. Karndean or lino. Possibly just paint, but with only 5mm of self levelling I think it'll crack away from the concrete.

Any suggestions?

Just put the self-levelling/latex flooring down and then a good floor paint over it. Put mats in front of your benches to stop you wearing the paint away where you stand most often.

If your floor is in pretty good shape anyway, just paint it.

 

[awemawson]

For my last two workshops I've screwed down 8x4's of 18mm Grade 3 OSB and then two coats of floor paint. Screws on an 18" matrix seems about right using a hammer drill and plasic plugs. Makes a very good dust free surface that is durable - even moving heavy equipment on rollers (I have a 4 ton CNC mill amongst other big toys) doesn't phase it. Dropped tools survive and it's warm to lie on. If you really do mess a sheet up you can pull it up and replace. (Grade 3 is the moisture resisting variety - but my latest shop has 50mm of polystyrene on a dpc with 6" of RC35 reinforced concrete with fibre topped by the osb so moisture shouldn't be a problem!)

 

[Rick]

Only lay neat leveling compound if your going to put a covering on top,ie tiles etc if you can afford it have a look at these
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...floor-tiles-pk6/path/workshop-flooringmatting

or
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produ...oogle&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Motorsport

If not when you mix up your latex also mix in some fine sharp sand with a small amount of pva let it go off a few days then a few coats of decent concrette floor paint polyurethane Floor Paint is best eg
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p26665

I've sorted it now, the machine mart tiles wouldn't wear very well. I.e. they were more of a foam like a mouse mat.
However they did this stuff
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...ded-3mm-1000mm-/path/workshop-flooringmatting

Which was just what I was looking for. 1 roll should hopefully do it.

Just put the self-levelling/latex flooring down and then a good floor paint over it. Put mats in front of your benches to stop you wearing the paint away where you stand most often.

If your floor is in pretty good shape anyway, just paint it.

The floor is in bad state the building is over 100 years old! Its more of a restoration really, (would have been cheaper to start over)

For my last two workshops I've screwed down 8x4's of 18mm Grade 3 OSB and then two coats of floor paint. Screws on an 18" matrix seems about right using a hammer drill and plasic plugs. Makes a very good dust free surface that is durable - even moving heavy equipment on rollers (I have a 4 ton CNC mill amongst other big toys) doesn't phase it. Dropped tools survive and it's warm to lie on. If you really do mess a sheet up you can pull it up and replace. (Grade 3 is the moisture resisting variety - but my latest shop has 50mm of polystyrene on a dpc with 6" of RC35 reinforced concrete with fibre topped by the osb so moisture shouldn't be a problem!)

Thanks for that, never thought of it, as said i'm sorted now. Something that maybe of help and what i've used recently. They don't need plugs and really work well/quickly on stuff like that.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/45701/Fixings/Frame-Fixings/7-5x152mm-Frame-Fix-Pk100

 

[awemawson]

Yes I had considered concrete screws, but when you work out how many you need (this is a 2000 sq foot workshop) they get pricey - especially as I already had the 2" no12 screws and brown plugs by the container load!

 

[Rick]

Yes I had considered concrete screws, but when you work out how many you need (this is a 2000 sq foot workshop) they get pricey - especially as I already had the 2" no12 screws and brown plugs by the container load!

Ah right, must have cost a lot in OSB, I got the main part of the workshop 1000sq ft, power floated so was just going to paint it.

The concrete screws work out pretty cheap if you have to buy the screws and plugs.

Best get to bed, going to do the latex cement tomorrow.

 

[Pete.]

Best of luck with that

P.S. get a peg for your nose

 

[Rick]

Best of luck with that

P.S. get a peg for your nose

Its being raining all morning so not going to be able to do the floor today. (well i'm putting it off)

Going to start running the "hard pipe" for the compressor instead I think.

 

[NTwoO]

After spending plenty on expensive 2 component epoxy style floor paints, my old man switched to old school road paint. It is dirt cheap and indestructible. I'm not talking about the new school thick stuff with glass beads in them, no, the old stuff still used in third world countries. The down side is you either get black, yellow or white.

 

[Shox Dr]

I've just cast my new workshop floor (4.5x7.5Mtrs) I power floated it hoping I wouldn't need to paint it. As I have never had any success with floor paints of any kind, and once you paint it, you will be forever painting the bloody thing

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

I've just cast my new workshop floor (4.5x7.5Mtrs) I power floated it hoping I wouldn't need to paint it. As I have never had any success with floor paints of any kind, and once you paint it, you will be forever painting the bloody thing

You might think about using a slip resist sealer on the floor that is absorbed into the floor slab ..
For if it gets polished by feet or absorbs a bit of oil and is not so treated it is likely to be like ice when damp or slightly oily.

 

[Shox Dr]

My last workshop floor was power floated as well. And although it was slippery if Oil was spilt, I never leave sills, they are ALWAYS cleaned up straight away. A good mop-up with paper towel and a rub with Tescos cat litter, does the job nicely

 

[lexi]

[/mix in some fine sharp sandQUOTE]


I know what you mean but the wording is funny.


If it's too late for a powerfloated concrete floor (Laycon) then a granite floor is very good. Bonding agent first and crushed granite with powder mixed 3;1 with cement. Lay it down medium wet and give it a quick wooden float to level.

A steel float about an hour or two later.......... Don't overpolish once water comes up. In five hrs you should get a polish on it with some force. Then a final polish when set but not cured. This will give you a fantastic hard wearing finish that is sealed and smooth.

Times are temperature dependant. Finish is skill dependant

 

[Rick]

I've just cast my new workshop floor (4.5x7.5Mtrs) I power floated it hoping I wouldn't need to paint it. As I have never had any success with floor paints of any kind, and once you paint it, you will be forever painting the bloody thing

I've had mine power floated, doesn't dust or anything yet, but was going to paint it.

 

[Shox Dr]

I've had mine power floated, doesn't dust or anything yet, but was going to paint it.

Remember only the Scots and the Army paint things that don't move

 

[matt1978]

Rick, clear your PM box!

 

[Slim Shady]

I was welding I beam on my regular rough concrete floor at 400amps, hit the floor and bang one big hole. No matter though. have just filled it and painted it with heat resistant paint. Plus no more welding on the floor unless it has wood under it.