old Landy engine.

[Ragnarok]

does look like there was a slight blow between cylinders, tends not to show up much on a compression test, when you did the test did you spin the engine by hand? in the manual it says to use the starter for a few rotations with all plugs out, then take the reading, forgotten the exact wording, also was the ignition timing right and is the distributor in good condition, shouldn't be much play in the distributer.
Don't use paddock for engine spares :/ the head gaskets are awful even worse than the other non genuine ones i've used, sounds like the head wasn't fitted properly anyway and looks like it was blowing between cylinders, so should be better if you put the head back on with a good gasket and the right torque and sequence

I really have to do a bit of a rebuild on mine, keep not getting around to it cause i want to fit a v8

good luck and happy tinkering

 

[graffian]

Doubt the valves are actually stainless steel much more of what I said and finely polished to deflect /deter gunge from adhering on exhaust and inlet valves.

Think the brain wave I've just had should say valve seat inserts for unleaded used to be a stellite alloy .( ???? )

Stainless is used, your stock ones won't be though.
I have never worked on a 4cyl landy engine, but I would be really suprised if they had removable seats. Seats are a couple of quid a piece. Any where that does engine machining will be able to flog you seats and will probably fit them.
The seat will need cutting. Can be done with a grinder, I use a 50 year old black and decker[missing the big red box].

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Stainless is used, your stock ones won't be though.
I have never worked on a 4cyl landy engine, but I would be really suprised if they had removable seats. Seats are a couple of quid a piece. Any where that does engine machining will be able to flog you seats and will probably fit them.
The seat will need cutting. Can be done with a grinder, I use a 50 year old black and decker[missing the big red box].

Google " valve inserts land rover ".
In 1966 to 1980 military vehicle engine specification / requirements used to be of a greater engineering quality than civi stuff and removable valve inserts were the norm as was being able to use them without cutting in the seats .

I think the idea developed with and from the old military use " B " series a so called universal engine designed by Rolls Royce and runied by sub contracts to Ford , Morris & Vauxhall etc etc.

I seem to recall that the Austin Champ had a " 4 cyl " B " series was one of the first mil veh to have them .

Doing a top scratch to a seat damaged head in a wood under cam nets at night in chucking down rain did not lend itself to one convieniently finding a genny and a power cutter etc.

 

[Chipper]

Sorry to jump in chaps. Thinking of reconning mine (2.25 petrol).
So new seats+new valves+lapping avoids the need to recut, is that right?

Would that be true of new valve guides too, or would they need reaming for new valves?

There is a local guy who recon's Landy heads for around £150 but DIY is more appealing...

 

[Ragnarok]

If you're having new seats they'll need to be cut, valve guides knock out and don't need reaming , there is a special tool for fitting and removing them though, but it's a simple tool too make, basically a punch with a pin on the end the size of a valve stem and a shoulder to contact the guide, you just hit it

 

[graffian]

Google " valve inserts land rover ".
In 1966 to 1980 military vehicle engine specification / requirements used to be of a greater engineering quality than civi stuff and removable valve inserts were the norm as was being able to use them without cutting in the seats .

Is that just military motors?
I have never had perfectly concentric valve and seat
after changing guide or seats, have always had to get the
grinder out.