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graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
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Nice looking mill.
I have a really rough drive and I have machines plopped on scaffold that's run lenthways. I found it much easier to slide a machine along the scaffold, than trying to roll a tube on a rough surface and over the tree roots. I moved a 3.7 ton mill on my own like that, it was ok once I got the scaffold above the drive, it sunk in! In the garage I move stuff around on pairs of flat stock, oil or grease between them and the machines slides around without to much difficulty, my garage floor is a bit rough for skates.
Looks quite well built and I would be suprised if it was lighter than a Bridgport, still I am crap as guessing weights;-) There is a bloke with a landy that moves machines, he gave me a price on moving a Bridgeport interact from Derbyshire to Surrey, a few hundred if I remember right. You will find his advert on the homeworkshop.org adverts pages.
As for the Vat Scott it's as much an inconvenience, having to add VAT to the bid to see what it's costing you, for the people who can't get it back.
I have a really rough drive and I have machines plopped on scaffold that's run lenthways. I found it much easier to slide a machine along the scaffold, than trying to roll a tube on a rough surface and over the tree roots. I moved a 3.7 ton mill on my own like that, it was ok once I got the scaffold above the drive, it sunk in! In the garage I move stuff around on pairs of flat stock, oil or grease between them and the machines slides around without to much difficulty, my garage floor is a bit rough for skates.
Looks quite well built and I would be suprised if it was lighter than a Bridgport, still I am crap as guessing weights;-) There is a bloke with a landy that moves machines, he gave me a price on moving a Bridgeport interact from Derbyshire to Surrey, a few hundred if I remember right. You will find his advert on the homeworkshop.org adverts pages.
As for the Vat Scott it's as much an inconvenience, having to add VAT to the bid to see what it's costing you, for the people who can't get it back.
Shedendman
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Take a look at the answer to Q2,so whos in the wrong/right as regards to VAT? i only ask cos i got charged VAT once after the hammer fell
Questions and answers about this item
Q: Hi Is this single or three phase? Thanks
A: Hello, The machine requires a three phase supply. Regards, Andreas.
02 Sep, 2010
Q: Good morning I dont know if your aware, but ebay rules state that the final price must include VAT. Take a look at the other VAT registered dealers. Regards Edwasrd
A: Good morning, The final bid price is plus VAT. My instructions come from Customs & Excise & our accountants. Cast in stone!!! Don't agree = don't bid. Regards, Andreas.
02 Sep, 2010
Questions and answers about this item
Q: Hi Is this single or three phase? Thanks
A: Hello, The machine requires a three phase supply. Regards, Andreas.
02 Sep, 2010
Q: Good morning I dont know if your aware, but ebay rules state that the final price must include VAT. Take a look at the other VAT registered dealers. Regards Edwasrd
A: Good morning, The final bid price is plus VAT. My instructions come from Customs & Excise & our accountants. Cast in stone!!! Don't agree = don't bid. Regards, Andreas.
02 Sep, 2010
rtbcomp
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As long as they stated the auction price would have VAT added to it, the rate and VAT number were displayed they aren't acting illegally even though they may have contravened Ebays terms and conditions.
If Ebay's rules don't allow this then don't put it on Ebay.
If you don't agree to these terms don't bid.
Buy-it-now is different. The price must include VAT if the public is expected to buy the item. You can also use dual pricing (like Machine Mart do) or issue trade (VAT excluded) catalogues or retail (VAT inclusive catalogues) like Screwfix do.
In all cases a VAT registered trader must show his VAT number and the rate of VAT.
If Ebay's rules don't allow this then don't put it on Ebay.
If you don't agree to these terms don't bid.
Buy-it-now is different. The price must include VAT if the public is expected to buy the item. You can also use dual pricing (like Machine Mart do) or issue trade (VAT excluded) catalogues or retail (VAT inclusive catalogues) like Screwfix do.
In all cases a VAT registered trader must show his VAT number and the rate of VAT.
mike os
just a little insane.....
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report it to ebay.... & it ill cost them money.... the rules of the place of sale apply..... you do not buy stuff in morrisons and have vat added, or at currys... reason ? because they are retail, not trade, outlets and their terms clearly state that VAT is included in the price.
On ebay you basically take a 15% kick. or set a reserve.... or go somewhere else, there are other professional online auction houses but unlike ebay they usually charge around 15%=vat for the privelige rather than ebays 10?% ( and deal with vat seperately.
For delivery speak to someone rather than just take the price list at face value, most can accomodate but just need to be informed beforehand.
http://www2.ebay.com/aw/uk/200801301815062.html
from ebays buisiness sellers policy (http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/policies/business.html)
2) Do I have to charge VAT on the items I sell?
HMRC's guide to VAT will also help you to find out whether you need to charge VAT on the items you sell. You may also find Business Link's Duty and VAT liability calculation tool useful for working out your tax liability when selling internationally.
Remember that If you're VAT registered, and therefore must charge VAT on the items you sell, the prices visible to buyers in your listings must be inclusive of VAT.
Note: Falsification of information to evade payment of VAT may result in civil fines and criminal prosecution. eBay cooperates with the police and other law enforcement agencies in cases involving potential falsification of information to evade payment of VAT.
On ebay you basically take a 15% kick. or set a reserve.... or go somewhere else, there are other professional online auction houses but unlike ebay they usually charge around 15%=vat for the privelige rather than ebays 10?% ( and deal with vat seperately.
For delivery speak to someone rather than just take the price list at face value, most can accomodate but just need to be informed beforehand.
http://www2.ebay.com/aw/uk/200801301815062.html
from ebays buisiness sellers policy (http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/policies/business.html)
2) Do I have to charge VAT on the items I sell?
HMRC's guide to VAT will also help you to find out whether you need to charge VAT on the items you sell. You may also find Business Link's Duty and VAT liability calculation tool useful for working out your tax liability when selling internationally.
Remember that If you're VAT registered, and therefore must charge VAT on the items you sell, the prices visible to buyers in your listings must be inclusive of VAT.
Note: Falsification of information to evade payment of VAT may result in civil fines and criminal prosecution. eBay cooperates with the police and other law enforcement agencies in cases involving potential falsification of information to evade payment of VAT.
One thing that has not been mentioned is what spindle is in it.The pictures don`t show it clearly.I think it`s a bit overated for a mill,more like a glorified drill and may have ambitions to be a jig mill as it appears to be adapted for using a clock gauge and length standards for accurate positioning of the table.
I`ve noticed this seller and his attitude before,it`s clear by ebays rules that the bid price shown is inclusive of vat but he`s insisting he`s having vat on top of the final bid price.For the people here who don`t seem to understand it,if you divide the bid price by 117.5 and multiply by 100 you get the price less vat.
I`d also be wary of the condition of what this guy sells.In one breath he`s selling liquidation stock,in the next the outgoing MD has told him it works fine,in the next it was palletised before he got there so he would prefer you to come and see it before bidding.Doesn`t mean there`s anything wrong with it but given what he`s saying here and his attitude to the vat you will be very much on your own if it doesn`t work.
Mark.
I`ve noticed this seller and his attitude before,it`s clear by ebays rules that the bid price shown is inclusive of vat but he`s insisting he`s having vat on top of the final bid price.For the people here who don`t seem to understand it,if you divide the bid price by 117.5 and multiply by 100 you get the price less vat.
I`d also be wary of the condition of what this guy sells.In one breath he`s selling liquidation stock,in the next the outgoing MD has told him it works fine,in the next it was palletised before he got there so he would prefer you to come and see it before bidding.Doesn`t mean there`s anything wrong with it but given what he`s saying here and his attitude to the vat you will be very much on your own if it doesn`t work.
Mark.
Hey Matt, sure thats going to go under the garage door
Hate moving mills, methinks your gonna have some trouble. Thats about a tonne.
Skid it in as above but could use steel flat.
For my 3/4 tonne Harrison 10 year ago paid £100 to travel to a place 8 mile, load, drive 23 mile and unload with hiab then drive home around 15 mile.
Did give him a car as well to dispose of before prices dropped.
Same co that made lathes Scott?
Pete.
Member
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Says it uses Brown & Sharpe collets on the lathes site. You could always have it modified to accept more common tooling.
Ive moved my arno universal mill a few times myself in a old hightop renault master van and its well over a tonne. To get it through doorways etc into the old inner workshop I had to remove the X-Y table which was only just hand manipulable by two strong people itself. I rolled it in and out the van on steel ramps and a old hd pallet truck I have for the purpose. When I bought it I forgot the hd ramps so we made a ramp from some ply skinned with steel sheet the seller had, and supported it well by building up piles of blocks under it. Luckily the seller had a good idea about rigging too and had plenty of handy stuff to hand like the sheet steel.
For the ramp section itself I pull up and let down on a old chain winch I have which anchors into the van, or a tirfor style hand winch. I usually have two devices (electric winch is the fav for #2) so if something breaks it doesnt mean disaster occurs.
On rollers its fairly easy so long as you have enough spare to have some under the base while moving the last one from the back to the front while in progress and have a pinch bar to work it over the awkward bits, but if your drive is on a slope dont forget to put a brake chain on it to stop it running away, as they can do that and theres not a lot you can do to stop it once they get going.
I usually chain to the van tow point and then use the handbrake/clutch in gear to let the machine pull the van acting as a counterweight down the slope gently. I woudlnt try it on anything but the gentlest of slopes...
Also dont forget youve got to get it up on the rollers to start with somehow, either lift it or pinch bar it up some blocks making the blocks progressively larger...
The golden rules are a) to take it very easy and think about it, b) never put yourself anywhere that if it did topple you'd get squished or trapped by it, and c) if it starts to go over then dont make a grab for it.
Oh, and take a LOT of straps and chains to secure it in whatever transport you have. I had someone pull out on me when I had it loaded enroute the first load, and I had to jump all over the brakes. It shifted ever so slightly on the floor and I had to change underwear after. Now I take a load of 2x2's or heavier, and screw the damn things straight to the ply floor of my van boxing in the foot of the machines, then chain them at the top to stop toppling with some extra strapping low down just in case. Cant have too much just in case when your dealing with stuff this heavy...
One day Ill buy a proper set of machine skates. Or one day Ill stay somewhere longer than about 4 years and have to move it all again... I have to go get it in a few months yet again, but Ill just use the forks on the jcb to lift it this time
so we made a ramp from some ply skinned with steel sheet the seller had, and supported it well by building up piles of blocks under it. Luckily the seller had a good idea about rigging too and had plenty of handy stuff to hand like the sheet steel.For the ramp section itself I pull up and let down on a old chain winch I have which anchors into the van, or a tirfor style hand winch. I usually have two devices (electric winch is the fav for #2) so if something breaks it doesnt mean disaster occurs.
On rollers its fairly easy so long as you have enough spare to have some under the base while moving the last one from the back to the front while in progress and have a pinch bar to work it over the awkward bits, but if your drive is on a slope dont forget to put a brake chain on it to stop it running away, as they can do that and theres not a lot you can do to stop it once they get going.
I usually chain to the van tow point and then use the handbrake/clutch in gear to let the machine pull the van acting as a counterweight down the slope gently. I woudlnt try it on anything but the gentlest of slopes...
Also dont forget youve got to get it up on the rollers to start with somehow, either lift it or pinch bar it up some blocks making the blocks progressively larger...
The golden rules are a) to take it very easy and think about it, b) never put yourself anywhere that if it did topple you'd get squished or trapped by it, and c) if it starts to go over then dont make a grab for it.
Oh, and take a LOT of straps and chains to secure it in whatever transport you have. I had someone pull out on me when I had it loaded enroute the first load, and I had to jump all over the brakes. It shifted ever so slightly on the floor and I had to change underwear after. Now I take a load of 2x2's or heavier, and screw the damn things straight to the ply floor of my van boxing in the foot of the machines, then chain them at the top to stop toppling with some extra strapping low down just in case. Cant have too much just in case when your dealing with stuff this heavy...
One day Ill buy a proper set of machine skates. Or one day Ill stay somewhere longer than about 4 years and have to move it all again... I have to go get it in a few months yet again, but Ill just use the forks on the jcb to lift it this time
brightspark
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my brigie horizontal with vertical head weighs 75o.kg i brought it home with a small twin wheel plant trailer
If it was me I would see if you could use an engine hoist.
I bought the Warco Major Mill and had a nightmare of a time raising it onto the bench and that was 300kg. I'm too tight to pay out for additional things though.
Good luck, get as many hands as you possibly can. I only had a small 1 tone bottle jack and the father inlaw. We managed though.
I bought the Warco Major Mill and had a nightmare of a time raising it onto the bench and that was 300kg. I'm too tight to pay out for additional things though.
Good luck, get as many hands as you possibly can. I only had a small 1 tone bottle jack and the father inlaw. We managed though.
thanks for all the replies chaps
one of my good mates has come to the rescue as his parents have a farm so he's going to come with his plant trailor and we'll strap it down on that. Hes even said he might be able to bring their bobcat with pallet forks so hopfully geting it off the trailer should be easy with that (famous last words)
hareng you do raise a very good point!! i think it should #just# about fit!!! time will tell I've been to the scrap yard yesterday and picked up some scaffold bars but due to the possible height issue i think i'll go abck and get some smaller diamter solid bar as scot recommended though
looks like were going to pick it up next saturday so got a week to get our bits together
one of my good mates has come to the rescue as his parents have a farm so he's going to come with his plant trailor and we'll strap it down on that. Hes even said he might be able to bring their bobcat with pallet forks so hopfully geting it off the trailer should be easy with that (famous last words)
hareng you do raise a very good point!! i think it should #just# about fit!!! time will tell
I've been to the scrap yard yesterday and picked up some scaffold bars but due to the possible height issue i think i'll go abck and get some smaller diamter solid bar as scot recommended thoughlooks like were going to pick it up next saturday so got a week to get our bits together
My lathe i can move on my own around 3/4 tonne with three or four scaffold tubes and two beefy English crow bars.
Same on equivalent mill wont have it as its a small foot print. Even worse getting a crow bar under just makes opposite side dig in. You will have no concrete floor left if manouvering that way.
If you have to move it feet or yards you will find you are moving round bars every few inches or so. Larger foot print no problem.
Skates are available at a price.
Try some thinish sheet metal but make sure it dont move unless mill is over the top. Skids easy with two of you. Wish i had done mine this way even though only had to move it 7ft when mill dropped on to cast iron base.
When you go for it carefull how you pick it up placing no undue stress on beds. There may even be holes or eyes specifically placed to pick up from. Almost top heavy as well.
Same on equivalent mill wont have it as its a small foot print. Even worse getting a crow bar under just makes opposite side dig in. You will have no concrete floor left if manouvering that way.
If you have to move it feet or yards you will find you are moving round bars every few inches or so. Larger foot print no problem.
Skates are available at a price.
Try some thinish sheet metal but make sure it dont move unless mill is over the top. Skids easy with two of you. Wish i had done mine this way even though only had to move it 7ft when mill dropped on to cast iron base.
When you go for it carefull how you pick it up placing no undue stress on beds. There may even be holes or eyes specifically placed to pick up from. Almost top heavy as well.
well we managed to get it with no drama
although when we got there to pick it up it was from an old factory that had gone into administration and they were flogging all the bits out of it however the loading bay at the back of the building was a good 15/20 feet below the opening to the floor where the mill was. The chap with the forklift lifted it down though!! my heart was in my mouth watching him do it!!!!
Getting it off the other end took a while but it wasn't a major drama. We used several scaffold bars to roller it on and used some long ratchet straps as a winch system having one in tension whilst we loosened the other before loosening the tight one and letting the other one take the strain. It was fairly slow going but worked well once we got into a rhythm.
The mill #just# squeezed under the door lintel which was a bloody relief as i wasn't sure what the hell we were going to do if it didn't fit
thanks again for all the pointers
although when we got there to pick it up it was from an old factory that had gone into administration and they were flogging all the bits out of it however the loading bay at the back of the building was a good 15/20 feet below the opening to the floor where the mill was. The chap with the forklift lifted it down though!! my heart was in my mouth watching him do it!!!!
Getting it off the other end took a while but it wasn't a major drama. We used several scaffold bars to roller it on and used some long ratchet straps as a winch system having one in tension whilst we loosened the other before loosening the tight one and letting the other one take the strain. It was fairly slow going but worked well once we got into a rhythm.
The mill #just# squeezed under the door lintel which was a bloody relief as i wasn't sure what the hell we were going to do if it didn't fit
thanks again for all the pointers
right a bit of advice required please
I've been having a mini tinker with the mill trying to familiarise myself with the various controls and levers. The main thing i'm not sure on is one of the 2 levers on the main spindle thing that when spun adjust the height of the cutter. One of them quite clearly does something as it pushes part of the spindle in and feels like it engages with some gears and then the small handle on the right hand side of the head allows a finer adjustment of the height of the cutter, however the other one is quite floppy and doesn't appear to do anything and so i'm wondering if it is broke.
Theres also a small leaver with various positions and some writing on it saying -0.32 ,0 , 0.16, 0.32. It is unable to be moved whilst the mill isn't running so i'm not quite sure what it does
and one final thing, if i wind the cutter up to the top and then let go of the handle cutter wants to drop down till the spindle hits the stop, is this normal?
cheers
Video below have a click to watch
I've been having a mini tinker with the mill trying to familiarise myself with the various controls and levers. The main thing i'm not sure on is one of the 2 levers on the main spindle thing that when spun adjust the height of the cutter. One of them quite clearly does something as it pushes part of the spindle in and feels like it engages with some gears and then the small handle on the right hand side of the head allows a finer adjustment of the height of the cutter, however the other one is quite floppy and doesn't appear to do anything and so i'm wondering if it is broke.
Theres also a small leaver with various positions and some writing on it saying -0.32 ,0 , 0.16, 0.32. It is unable to be moved whilst the mill isn't running so i'm not quite sure what it does
and one final thing, if i wind the cutter up to the top and then let go of the handle cutter wants to drop down till the spindle hits the stop, is this normal?
cheers
Video below have a click to watch
wyn
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From the vid it looks like the loose lever should be operating the same as the other one....something will have come adrift inside...it looks straight forward to take that end cap off to have a look.
As you say it must be some sort of clutch for selecting the hand wheel.
As you say it must be some sort of clutch for selecting the hand wheel.
