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Gritineye
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The pedal never feels solid with silicone brake fluid in there, brakes work fine but feel spongy, unlikely to be your problem but you never know what's been done.
Sergei Slovenija
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I had a brake fluid boiling tester, and the measurements were always given to the client free of charge. If there was a thick black sediment at the bottom of the expansion tank, I never bled the brake system (filling in new brake fluid.), Without inspecting and cleaning the tank. And of course, pressing the caliper pistons when changing the brake pads, I pinched the rubber hose and poured the excess fluid into a jar.
Smallfry
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Why ? Had his Vauxhall been stolen ?
keithski122
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Used to be every two years for changing the fluid.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Gone right through the service history here. Brake fluid was last changed it seems in Sept 2015 by the Honda dealer i.e 3 years after registration. Every 3 years is the recommended interval it seems.
Thereafter they appear to have it regularly serviced by a local garage, annually. Only appears to have engine oil changes, oil, cabin and air filters along with brake components as in discs & pads.
What are the chances I wonder of a brake fluid change making all the difference and saving me £400?
Thereafter they appear to have it regularly serviced by a local garage, annually. Only appears to have engine oil changes, oil, cabin and air filters along with brake components as in discs & pads.
What are the chances I wonder of a brake fluid change making all the difference and saving me £400?
Being the tightest man in NATO I'd give it a try and find out.
Smallfry
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I agree, probably will not work, but will only cost a few litres of fluid and some time.
And besides, a complete flush through of the rest of the system will be a good thing.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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After much searching and ringing around factors and dealers I found what I've been repeatedly assured is a complete brake master cylinder. I queried the cheapness of the quote, physically went to the dealers and the guy showed me on screen the complete master cylinder assembly which is what I want and assured me that's what I'll be getting.
I paid just over £100. When I got home I noted on the invoice part Number H01462SDBA02 (or maybe it's HO1462SDBA02 with an "O" rather than a "0"). I reckon it's this and all I'll be getting is a seal kit. After a quick Google:
www.amayama.com
So today's task sometime is to ring him back and query it once again!
I paid just over £100. When I got home I noted on the invoice part Number H01462SDBA02 (or maybe it's HO1462SDBA02 with an "O" rather than a "0"). I reckon it's this and all I'll be getting is a seal kit. After a quick Google:
Honda 01462-SDB-A02 (01462SDBA02) SEAL AND GASKET KIT
Honda 01462-SDB-A02 (01462SDBA02) SEAL AND GASKET KIT. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.
www.amayama.com
So today's task sometime is to ring him back and query it once again!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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The dealer has, just as I thought, identified / quoted the wrong part. I would have been getting just a seal kit.
I rang them, they rang Honda and came back to tell me I was correct.
The correct price £388.00. They're giving me 15% off as a gesture and were very apologetic.
I rang them, they rang Honda and came back to tell me I was correct.
The correct price £388.00. They're giving me 15% off as a gesture and were very apologetic.
MetalMonkey
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Personally, I’d be eliminating everything else possible before condemning the master cylinder, especially at that price! If it was £50 for a new master cylinder, it would be different, but at Honda pricing it needs to be a last resort really.
Sounds like it hasn’t had a fluid change, which is often skipped on services. I’ve taken callipers off a “dealer maintained” car and found the pistons seized up to the point of needing 36” stilsons on them to get them to rotate.
Clamping off the hoses, as pete suggests, is a good idea to see if the pedal is still dropping.
I’d also flush some fresh fluid through before doing removing anything – even if you change or rebuild the master cylinder, its better to pump the fluid through now and get some fresh throughout the system.
If it is definitely the master cylinder, you can still inspect it and see if there is any noticeable damage to the seals before swapping the entire unit.
Don't forget you will have the ABS unit in play as well - again unlikely it has gone wrong, but there can be issues with them - so I'd recommend test everything before opening the wallet.
Sounds like it hasn’t had a fluid change, which is often skipped on services. I’ve taken callipers off a “dealer maintained” car and found the pistons seized up to the point of needing 36” stilsons on them to get them to rotate.
Clamping off the hoses, as pete suggests, is a good idea to see if the pedal is still dropping.
I’d also flush some fresh fluid through before doing removing anything – even if you change or rebuild the master cylinder, its better to pump the fluid through now and get some fresh throughout the system.
If it is definitely the master cylinder, you can still inspect it and see if there is any noticeable damage to the seals before swapping the entire unit.
Don't forget you will have the ABS unit in play as well - again unlikely it has gone wrong, but there can be issues with them - so I'd recommend test everything before opening the wallet.
Sergei Slovenija
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I did the pinching of 4 hoses not in order to check the master brake cylinder, but so that wear products accumulating in the calipers would not flow back into the more critical components of the hydraulic system located earlier.
I'm guessing that the master cylinder feeds direct to the ABS manifold and then branches off from there?
If thats the case the easy option would be to blank it off before the ABS manifold and then the only thing left in the system is the master cylinder? Easy way to confirm or eliminate that without pinching off pipes etc.
Or is that being over simplistic?
If thats the case the easy option would be to blank it off before the ABS manifold and then the only thing left in the system is the master cylinder? Easy way to confirm or eliminate that without pinching off pipes etc.
Or is that being over simplistic?
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Update:
The BiL (who said it needed the master cylinder done) took the car and did it.
First run it still wasn't quite right. He further bled it. Said he got a lot of crap out of the back brakes. He also had to put his diagnostic tablet on it to pulse the ABS.
Have to wonder if it really needed the cylinder as above.
Never mind, done now. Move on.
The BiL (who said it needed the master cylinder done) took the car and did it.
First run it still wasn't quite right. He further bled it. Said he got a lot of crap out of the back brakes. He also had to put his diagnostic tablet on it to pulse the ABS.
Have to wonder if it really needed the cylinder as above.
Never mind, done now. Move on.
