Buy my drill and indexing table. You know it makes sense. Google maps says 1hr 46mins.
- Thread starter Beanwood
- Start date
Agroshield
Member
- Messages
- 6,177
The holes in the stripper plate can be oversize so you do not need that as part of your sandwich when drilling. That has removed 6mm from your problem.
Counterbore the die plate oversize from the underside. That will remove another 5mm from your problem. The counterbore also allows the punched slugs a much easier exit path.
Use a stub drill (Presto, Dormer, etc) as it is much stiffer than a standard length jobber and thus much stiffer. Looks like a 3mm stub drill wil go to 16mm deep.
Left to right alignment on the drill press, you have no excuse. Put a 13mm bit in the chuck and use a square to align the table.
Front to back on cheap drills, they can sag a bit under gravity and more as the drilling pressure is applied. Rig up a piece of timber and some folding wedges and adjust until the square says it is correct.
Counterbore the die plate oversize from the underside. That will remove another 5mm from your problem. The counterbore also allows the punched slugs a much easier exit path.
Use a stub drill (Presto, Dormer, etc) as it is much stiffer than a standard length jobber and thus much stiffer. Looks like a 3mm stub drill wil go to 16mm deep.
Left to right alignment on the drill press, you have no excuse. Put a 13mm bit in the chuck and use a square to align the table.
Front to back on cheap drills, they can sag a bit under gravity and more as the drilling pressure is applied. Rig up a piece of timber and some folding wedges and adjust until the square says it is correct.
Thanks @Agroshield - Thinking about it overnight I'd come to the same conclusion on the die plate counterbore, and the stripper plate. I may even be able to rescue the current if I counterbore and go a tiny bit oversize with a stub drill - which is a great idea. I imagine that extra stiffness is what the engineer was getting at when he recommended the end cutter.
Unfortunately the table being out of level is exactly down to me - and I'm just annoyed at myself - I'd already levelled up a smaller drill left to right, to find the front to back was an issue...so I should have checked better on the larger drill
and DEFINITELY before I drilled all he holes in the Die.Agroshield
Member
- Messages
- 6,177
Another option is not to use the table of the drill press at all. Slide the head down the column or the base up the column. The shorter length of column will lead to less bending from that source. Check that the base is square to the quill in both directions from the factory.
pressbrake1
Member
- Messages
- 5,748
- Location
- Essex
There’s loads of styles of punch ends really dependant upon material thickness, material type and power source
I use silver steel as it’s so easy to harden.
I’ve probably missed the thread as there’s pictures of drill presses and rotary tables
I use silver steel as it’s so easy to harden.
I’ve probably missed the thread as there’s pictures of drill presses and rotary tables
Unfortunately this is a fixed head and fixed base - so I’d need a Reeeeeaaalllllly long drill bit
Thanks- yes trying to make my own punch and die (8 holes in a 25mm circle) without a mill - so using a drill press. I’m using silver steel as well- I can buy it in the right size, and so far haven’t needed to harden it.There’s loads of styles of punch ends really dependant upon material thickness, material type and power source
I use silver steel as it’s so easy to harden.
I’ve probably missed the thread as there’s pictures of drill presses and rotary tables
daedalusminos
Member
- Messages
- 2,368
- Location
- Norwich
The table not being 100% square shouldn't be a major issue - just don't rotate the work piece. I assume you're centre-punching then aligning the drill on that then clamping the vice down. I'd temporarily weld the material stack to ensure no movement and obviously drill the bearing pillar holes at the same time.
The pins need to be as short as possible to minimise misalignment due to bearing play and I'd include a sprung loaded stripper to act as spreader which may prevent a raised lip around the holes.
The pins need to be as short as possible to minimise misalignment due to bearing play and I'd include a sprung loaded stripper to act as spreader which may prevent a raised lip around the holes.
OK - it seems as if I have a reason even if not an excuse
Spent some time cussing as couldn't get it square for love nor money.
Then I twigged - and proved by 'spinning the table under the square' there's a high point on one part of the rotating table. Covers about 45 - 60degrees I suppose - so it's never going to be quite true using the square in one postion.
I don't have a straight edge or flat plate so I'm never going to get it flat... Oh - the joy.....
hotponyshoes
Member
- Messages
- 7,648
- Location
- Somerset. Uk
OK - it seems as if I have a reason even if not an excuse
Spent some time cussing as couldn't get it square for love nor money.
Then I twigged - and proved by 'spinning the table under the square' there's a high point on one part of the rotating table. Covers about 45 - 60degrees I suppose - so it's never going to be quite true using the square in one postion.
I don't have a straight edge or flat plate so I'm never going to get it flat... Oh - the joy.....
File it flat.
I've got some big farriers rasps that will make easy work of that job if you want one..
