Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
Rigidity probably plays a big part, also you can get a lot of pressure with the quill.
- Thread starter leadpig
- Start date
sod all experience with pillar drills, not used one since i was in school 30 years ago lol
any recommendations, was looking at the all singing bosch screwfix are selling but for that money i could nearly buy a mag drill
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,741
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
This is probably a good buy but pickup only by the looks of it.
Doesn't look much but it is an Arboga, table is a mess but that is often the case. Sadly it is only a 1 speed motor but still a fairly decent range of speeds. Also it will be 3 phase so that might be an issue.
Doesn't look much but it is an Arboga, table is a mess but that is often the case. Sadly it is only a 1 speed motor but still a fairly decent range of speeds. Also it will be 3 phase so that might be an issue.
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lol did you notice my locationThis is probably a good buy but pickup only by the looks of it.
Doesn't look much but it is an Arboga, table is a mess but that is often the case. Sadly it is only a 1 speed motor but still a fairly decent range of speeds. Also it will be 3 phase so that might be an issue.
INDUSTRIAL PILLAR DRILL Gear Driven Head Vintage Equipment | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for INDUSTRIAL PILLAR DRILL Gear Driven Head Vintage Equipment at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,741
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
I did but maybe you like travellinglol did you notice my location
outofthefire
Member
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- 2,881
I was taught to regrind drill bits a bit flatter for stainless
im only after a cheap one for the van m8, i dont have a workshop, spend 80% of my time welding/fabricating lead in van, but got a reputation for being able to fix things/having the gear to do itThis is probably a good buy but pickup only by the looks of it.
Doesn't look much but it is an Arboga, table is a mess but that is often the case. Sadly it is only a 1 speed motor but still a fairly decent range of speeds. Also it will be 3 phase so that might be an issue.
INDUSTRIAL PILLAR DRILL Gear Driven Head Vintage Equipment | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for INDUSTRIAL PILLAR DRILL Gear Driven Head Vintage Equipment at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,741
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Probably your best bet is to get one of the Chinese clones in that case, something like THIS they are not the best but do their turn and are cheap, also make sure whichever one you buy has at least a few speeds and that the slowest speeds are not too high, 2-300rpm should be good but some are 500rpm plus min.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,741
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Probably best avoiding that then
addjunkie
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I was taught a bit more pointy for stainless or better still grind up a masonry bit!
brightspark
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- yarm stockton on tees
i grind all my masonary bits up on a green stone that are impact to a proper cutting edge so they drill through metal and wood as well as masonry
Ross365
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Back in the 80's I worked for GEC and we had this stuff called Chloro-S cutting compound which was the difference between day and night when drilling stainless. Sadly, no longer sold (but I still have some 
), it convinced me of the value of cutting compounds. I think cobalt drills work well on stainless. But most strikingly, a couple of years ago I finally acquired a decent pillar drill (Tycho; made in the US and shipped in WW2). Compared with any hand drill, or my far-eastern pillar drill, my WWII pillar drill makes stainless seem easy.
), it convinced me of the value of cutting compounds. I think cobalt drills work well on stainless. But most strikingly, a couple of years ago I finally acquired a decent pillar drill (Tycho; made in the US and shipped in WW2). Compared with any hand drill, or my far-eastern pillar drill, my WWII pillar drill makes stainless seem easy.
brightspark
Member
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- yarm stockton on tees
i have a churchill half inch pillar drill ,bought it 50 years ago second hand think its from 19 40 ish for 75 quid and its still going strong all it has had is a new belt and a new chuck no wear in the bearings or quill its had a lot of use as wellBack in the 80's I worked for GEC and we had this stuff called Chloro-S cutting compound which was the difference between day and night when drilling stainless. Sadly, no longer sold (but I still have some
I had an lld Aldi workzone drill press I used for our RC trailer when we raced.
Not very strange but I need to mount a jig to hold some 30mm steel cage clamps. And I needed an extra drill to see me changed the jig..
Some 4.5 Cobalt drills from UK drills and I was amazed they lasted for hundreds of holes at a time.
I did change one or two during the time we had the job running but they seemed to cut no better when new. I was amazed at their longevity.
Using a dealt 18 volt better drill took probably 10 times longer to get through each hole.
I did use a wind up old style scissor jack under the table to stop it flexing but would not hesitate buying one again if i need a small pillar drill.
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Not very strange but I need to mount a jig to hold some 30mm steel cage clamps. And I needed an extra drill to see me changed the jig..
Some 4.5 Cobalt drills from UK drills and I was amazed they lasted for hundreds of holes at a time.
I did change one or two during the time we had the job running but they seemed to cut no better when new. I was amazed at their longevity.
Using a dealt 18 volt better drill took probably 10 times longer to get through each hole.
I did use a wind up old style scissor jack under the table to stop it flexing but would not hesitate buying one again if i need a small pillar drill.
.
julianthegypsy
Member
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When I was drilling a lot of holes in stainless on my old Capstan, I used 7.5mm cobalt drills with no pilot banged straight in and they worked fine.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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Slow speed, high pressure, good quality drill, and use lube.
Best lube for any drilling I've found is HMT aerosol foaming oil.
I've never been convinced by cobalt drills, i had a lot of bad luck with them years ago where they all just chipped edges. I use a quality HSS drill from dormer, presto or milwaukee. (milwaukee thunderweb especially cuts well on stainless, they're ground quite aggressively as standard)
The other week i used a reground dormer 10mm to put in 120+ holes in 3mm stainless on the mill, says it all really.
Best lube for any drilling I've found is HMT aerosol foaming oil.
I've never been convinced by cobalt drills, i had a lot of bad luck with them years ago where they all just chipped edges. I use a quality HSS drill from dormer, presto or milwaukee. (milwaukee thunderweb especially cuts well on stainless, they're ground quite aggressively as standard)
The other week i used a reground dormer 10mm to put in 120+ holes in 3mm stainless on the mill, says it all really.
Sergei Slovenija
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what does it look like?
