Lanoguard, waxoyl etc.

[chrismac]

A lot of the comments here are talking about longevity but I think with any of these products they need to be topped up perhaps yearly or even more depending on use

Totally agree, I have used waxoyl on my hilux, I thought one application that was it, spent the time wire brushing, rust converter then waxoyl, 12 months later some areas you would hardly think anything was sprayed on, I have re-coated with more waxoly, then following year dinotrol, I use lanoguard now but am ready for yearly applications as its needed to keep the rust at bay, its certainly an easy product to spray on.

 

[Robertthegreat]

Creosote the real stuff mixed with automatic gear oil that really soaks into the cracks.

 

[Trevorleach]

I've been using bilt hamber. It's supposed to soak into rust and stop further rust. But who knows.

I believed that so bought some, it is pretty much all coming off in sheets, looks bloody terrible.

 

[moleb]

I avoid Waxoyl and the like unless it's direct to a rust free surface. I would definitely avoid re-coating if rust is under there, watch this for the full horror of encapsulating rust under coatings:

This old cynic doesn't rate anything on existing rust other than media blasting followed by something you mix together...anything will do as long as it's 2K and non-porous. Having said that, I have a Mazda on life support that is still wandering around (just) on a diet of Dynax S50 once a year.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I believed that so bought some, it is pretty much all coming off in sheets, looks bloody terrible.

The underbody wax? Strange, got any photos?

 

[DennisCA]

First sandblasting and a thorough clean before drying. Then applying Dinitrol ML which creeps into crevices and stops rust.

Then after that has dried apply a layer of thicker bitumen based coating. If you apply just this and nothing else, you don't get the creeping and rust stopping protection of the Dinitrol and you might even lock in salt and rust under it if you skimp the cleaning.

Oil also used to be popular here, Tectyl is common to apply on modern /new cars.

Regular underbody maintenance is imperative in a salted area IMO, really works. One can see it in how many older cars are rolling around still working and not being eaten by rust.

Of course as time goes on, people care less about rust protecting their cars, it also seems car manufacturers peaked in that regard. A early 2000s Volvo V70 might have been the best car in that respect.

 

[Farside]

I avoid Waxoyl and the like unless it's direct to a rust free surface. I would definitely avoid re-coating if rust is under there, watch this for the full horror of encapsulating rust under coatings:

This old cynic doesn't rate anything on existing rust other than media blasting followed by something you mix together...anything will do as long as it's 2K and non-porous. Having said that, I have a Mazda on life support that is still wandering around (just) on a diet of Dynax S50 once a year.

I used to believe the Ziebart boolshyte, too.
I lost count of the number of brand new Hunters and Avengers that came through the workshop for their first service, still reeking of the stuff and it was all over everything underneath. From what I recall, none of those cars were ever taken for processing brand new, they would always have had a few miles on them, so plenty of chance for road muck and salts to contaminate the surfaces.
Many hundreds / thousands of customers paid dearly for that - of course, the first owners would have done it with the intention of hanging on to the cars for longer, but would have been sorely disappointed in the short lifespan.
The Ziebard boolshyte lived on for a long time after that - over the years I've seen many used car adverts touting that the car had been Zeed, as if it were a bonus point.

 

[keithski122]

Creosote the real stuff mixed with automatic gear oil that really soaks into the cracks.

My dad sprayed the bottom of his van with old engine oil. I've refused to work on it ever since.

 

[Gritineye]

I like Anchor wax, thicker than Waxoil and brushes on nicely. I used it everywhere under my 1928 Chevy over existing slight surface rust, no paint left on it. No box sections so no worry about internal areas, it would be hard to spay this stuff I reckon.

As it's got the 'barn find' look I used it all over the body too. The cotton reinforced rubberised fabric roof was dried out and had hundreds of cracks and a few protruding nail heads and it leaked bady.
On a hot day I had it outside and spread the wax on thick with a filling knife, it soaked in well and I did a few coats, repeated a few days later.

I then made a new headlining and it's not got a mark on it from water leaks after 8 yrs, so the wax has stayed soft.

 

[brightspark]

what is lanoguard just looks like shutz

 

[Rannsachair]

First sandblasting and a thorough clean before drying. Then applying Dinitrol ML which creeps into crevices and stops rust.

Then after that has dried apply a layer of thicker bitumen based coating. If you apply just this and nothing else, you don't get the creeping and rust stopping protection of the Dinitrol and you might even lock in salt and rust under it if you skimp the cleaning.

Oil also used to be popular here, Tectyl is common to apply on modern /new cars.

Regular underbody maintenance is imperative in a salted area IMO, really works. One can see it in how many older cars are rolling around still working and not being eaten by rust.

Of course as time goes on, people care less about rust protecting their cars, it also seems car manufacturers peaked in that regard. A early 2000s Volvo V70 might have been the best car in that respect.

I have been using Noxodol 700 and 900 for a few years now, seems quite good and good reviews. Another Scandinavian product.

 

[addjunkie]

My defender has dinitrol inside and out it needs doing again really….id say yearly……

 

[DennisCA]

Dinitrol has several products, the creeping ML stuff definitely needs yearly reapplications.

I gotta say there's something to be said for good ole oil though. It made the car real dirty for a while but it would last for years.

 

[chrismac]

what is lanoguard just looks like shutz

Its claimed to be a self healing product, like they all do, but its very thin and only a small amount is needed compared to other products, its a sort of green colour that cures enhancing the black paint if there is any paint left on the under carriage, I have been using it for a couple of years now. Seems okay better than waxoyl in my opinion.

 

[addjunkie]

My personal opinion is all these products are a bit “snake oil” non are perfect, but all better than nothing. The success is really down to how thoroughly they are applied

 

[GRW]

My memory is rubbish, but a member in here posted pics of a renovated ladder chassis he'd done in I believe Jotun 90 epoxy paint.
It looked fantastic, and like it'd survive decades.
The thing is, he'd taken the vehicle to bits and done a full proper resto job to better-than-new & protected it.
Us mere mortals don't have the tools & equipment (or wherewithal & talent - or willingness) to take their vehicle totally apart - so it's never going to have the same levels of prep (& access) to apply your treatment of choice onto.

It seems really a question of what's the best, relatively easy to apply, reasonably protective Goo that the average Joe can actually (& will actually) use?

 

[Gareth J]

I have used dinitrol on our little wind turbine. It's what the manufacturers recommended. It's 15m off the ground, ~5mi from the west coast, moving and always exposed. Not exactly an oil rig but a pretty tough location. There are always areas that need to be wire brushed and touched in annually.

To the point that now, I tend to just use whatever cheap waxoil type product (think the last lot was from carplan) mixed ~50:50 with bitumen and a bit of white spirit if needed to spray. It's cheaper, so I happily use more. That's not to say that a thick layer is necessarily better but, lots of little layers/sprays, from lots of different angles has a better chance of complete coverage. Being careful with an expensive product inevitably leave some areas poorly covered.

Use the same under vehicles now too.

For the visible bits of oily rag vehicles, I just periodically wipe with the clear waxoil equivalent.

 

[fizzy]

The biggest problem in the UK is the salt they put on our roads. There is a simple trick that can help a lot. Use a garden sprinkler under your vehicle. Or after offroading. The type that moves side to side. I used to do that under my 110 and it helped massively.
The RAF used to have nig water sprays to wash down aircraft after a low level maritime patrol. Stopped the airframes corroding. Shows how low they used to fly

 

[Smallfry]

I have cut up a few cars that had been treated with Waxoyl in the sills. Marketed as a rust "killer". It doesn't. Might be OK if used on new clean metal, but these cars had been injected when the were already 10 years old or more. The Waxoyl had just congealed over a carpet of flaky rust in the bottom of the sill, which just carried on rusting.
Nothing actually kills rust, it has to be removed, by sanding to bright metal, or acids. You are pi**ing into the wind with it really, unless you devote your life to treating the vehicle a couple of times a year, but who wants to crawl underneath in the winter with a jetwash and hairdryer ?
The absolute best stuff is Unicorn horn oil, but its hard to find around here. Second best is gear oil, or chainsaw bar oil, these are the closest you will get to "killing" rust, but are messy, smelly, unpleasant to use and environmentally unfriendly, and will do any rubber suspension bushes or hoses no good at all.
I have tried most things over many years, and have found Bilt Hamber products are probably the best all round. Have tried lanoshield, which seems OK but I dont know what it is like in then long term.
Rust converters do not last for long, none of them, including Bilt Hamber, Dinitrol, or Fertan do as they promise.
It is just something you have to keep on at, scraping flaking rust and paint and treating often. Trying to repaint underbody on a vehicle in use is a waste of time.

The thing with all these products is that they are great for the seller. They all make great claims, but NONE of them work in the long term really, and if they are challenged, they always play their "Get out of Jail free" card, by saying the product has not worked because of poor application techniques or preparation by the user.

 

[Gareth J]

Most vehicles rot through seams/dirt/water traps and from behind these areas anyway. The surface rust that's visible and treatable, even if left untreated, will probably outlast the aforementioned areas.