Cheap engine oil

[Kram]

I dont see the offer at the moment, but it was very common for Eurocarparts to sell their TripleQX oils at 50% off.. about £12.5. Last time I ordered 3 gallons for about £38.

 

[brightspark]

One of the receipts included with the ex's new car, was an old one for engine work, cleaning sludge out of the top end - with the recommendation to do more frequent oil changes, rather then using flushing oil for fear of the flushing oil doing too good a job and causing too much crap to come loose and block things that shouldn't be blocked.

Not sure how true that is - but it was a fear I had 20 plus years ago when I bought some and read the label, so I have to 20 yr old unopened flushing oil going . . .

i would never use flushing oil.if crap is just sat there doing no harm leave well alone and just regular oil changes powerflushing is big in america and wrecks engines, the car makers do not recommend it or will even give warranty if u have had it done

 

[Smallfry]

Flushing oil is no good for modern engines. Use at your peril.

For flushing use Diesel engine oil to grade CF4 even on a petrol engine. Viscosity not important.
Do not use on anything with a DPF.

 

[pedrobedro]

I always used to use Wynn's engine flush after a run then let it run for 20 minutes before changing the oil but I haven't used it on the Berlingo.

 

[RWD3M]

Do motor factors near you not do flushing oil?

Yeah, at £27 + VAT!

 

[RWD3M]

Go talk nicely to the guys in the workshop at somerfords. They might sort you out

I must confess, I hadn't thought of that, I should have given Ade a call

 

[RWD3M]

Flushing oil is no good for modern engines. Use at your peril.

For flushing use Diesel engine oil to grade CF4 even on a petrol engine. Viscosity not important.
Do not use on anything with a DPF.

Ah, what I failed to mention is that the engine I want to flush out is a 1930's Morris side valve motor that has recently had a minor coolant issue (coolant where it shouldn't be including all over the engine bay and very nicely emulsified in the oil. Sorry! But good advice!

I ended up getting a gallon of SAE 30 from my local (ish) agricultural supplier. Thie bonus being that I can also use it for top-ups as that is the correct oil for the engine.

Thanks to all that have replied, much appreciated.

 

[RichardM]

Does it have a sludge trap in the crank?

 

[steveo3002]

run some diesel in it

 

[RWD3M]

Does it have a sludge trap in the crank?

Nope, nor filter. It all just congregates in the low point of the sump. Which is why the sump is lying outside drying post-cleaning

 

[Shox Dr]

Ah, what I failed to mention is that the engine I want to flush out is a 1930's Morris side valve motor that has recently had a minor coolant issue (coolant where it shouldn't be including all over the engine bay and very nicely emulsified in the oil. Sorry! But good advice!

I ended up getting a gallon of SAE 30 from my local (ish) agricultural supplier. Thie bonus being that I can also use it for top-ups as that is the correct oil for the engine.

Thanks to all that have replied, much appreciated.

SAE is the viscosity
The API rating is the grade. Typically the age of motor would use SA grade. This is straight dino oil no additives at all. Later oils have ZDDP @900ppm and higher to better lubricate rockers etcs SF or SG would be a better choice

Oil Categories

The American Petroleum Institute (API) is the only national trade association that represents all aspects of America’s oil and natural gas industry. Our more than 600 corporate members, from the largest major oil company to the smallest of independents, come from all segments of the industry.

www.api.org

 

[RWD3M]

Screwfix SAE 30 seems to work well in the old stationary engines - link

Good shout!

 

[Smallfry]

Ah, what I failed to mention is that the engine I want to flush out is a 1930's Morris side valve motor that has recently had a minor coolant issue (coolant where it shouldn't be including all over the engine bay and very nicely emulsified in the oil. Sorry! But good advice!

I ended up getting a gallon of SAE 30 from my local (ish) agricultural supplier. Thie bonus being that I can also use it for top-ups as that is the correct oil for the engine.

Thanks to all that have replied, much appreciated.

I see, I would still NOT use flushing oil in the Morris, (an Eight ?) Modern oils, especially diesel, hold all the carp in suspension, so it is drained out during a change.

Back then, removing the sump and cleaning it out was part of the service regime. Not unusual to find an inch or two of sludge in the bottom. If you disturb it by using flushing oil, thats a big mistake. It would be carried round while the engine is running, and settle to the bottom when stopped. It would stay there too, except the bit around the oil pickup, until it got so bad it would block this. I have got a big 1960s Ford industrial diesel engine here that has been ruined by exactly this.

Oils have come on so much since then, and personally, I would have no qualms about using a modern detergent oil in it, one it is all cleaned up that is.

 

[Shox Dr]

I see, I would still NOT use flushing oil in the Morris, (an Eight ?) Modern oils, especially diesel, hold all the carp in suspension, so it is drained out during a change.

Back then, removing the sump and cleaning it out was part of the service regime. Not unusual to find an inch or two of sludge in the bottom. If you disturb it by using flushing oil, thats a big mistake. It would be carried round while the engine is running, and settle to the bottom when stopped. It would stay there too, except the bit around the oil pickup, until it got so bad it would block this. I have got a big 1960s Ford industrial diesel engine here that has been ruined by exactly this.

Oils have come on so much since then, and personally, I would have no qualms about using a modern detergent oil in it, one it is all cleaned up that is.

As you say modern oils hold the dirt in suspension for the oil filter to remove it. Older oils allowed the dirt to fallout of suspension settling on the floor of the oil pan, not requiring a filter.

My 1950 GMC motor has a bypass filter fitted as an option. Only filters around 25% but its down to 5mu. unlike a spin-on type that only filter to 30-40mu when new. (Its a common misconception filters clog up. They infact break down releasing the trapped dirt along with filter fibres to re-circulate the motor.)

 

[OJCar]

OJcar's engine (similar to RWD3M's Morris) had sat for so long a time ( ~1962 till 2003) that when the sump plug was taken out nothing much happened.
The sludge had formed a solid barrier to the oil and only let the oil out after being poked out of the way.
Over an inch of sludge in the sump but the oil was a clear gold colour where all the muck had settled out over the years.

 

[Smallfry]

Here is a couple of photos of my Ford engine.
Sump is supposed to be the same depth all the way through, Three to four inches of sludge in the part to the right. Other part is shallower because of the oil pickup which was blocked solid.
Con rod picture showing what was left of the big end shell, thats the frilly bit

 

[Shox Dr]

Here is a couple of photos of my Ford engine.
Sump is supposed to be the same depth all the way through, Three to four inches of sludge in the part to the right. Other part is shallower because of the oil pickup which was blocked solid.
Con rod picture showing what was left of the big end shell, thats the frilly bit
View attachment 398545View attachment 398546View attachment 398547

The misunderstanding that the latest oil is the best for you engine is not true. It killed many a motor in the late 70s and 80s, when they removed most of the ZDDP and added detergents. This cleaned all the gunk off the inside and sent it around the motor. One dead engine

 

[Trevorleach]

The misunderstanding that the latest oil is the best for you engine is not true. It killed many a motor in the late 70s and 80s, when they removed most of the ZDDP and added detergents. This cleaned all the gunk off the inside and sent it around the motor. One dead engine

I am always telling people that on the land rover forums, they are obsessed with semi or syn as an upgrade, slap some mineral in and it will run forever.

 

[premmington]

just changed the oil on wifeys car and my pug van . both use 0/30 big ££££ people say use 5/30 but no chance on newish vehicles the oil is thinner and better in winter specialy on a turbo . oil gets round quicker on start up

Oil is cheaper than engines.

I put allot of effort in stocking loads of differing oils - with the right spec for different makes and models.

I think at the last count we stock nine different grades of engine oil - Five types in drums and the odd ones in 20ltr cans.

----------

Not sure if - everybody else in the trade does - I reckon some places stick 5/30 C2 into everything. When they should be using C1 low ash oil on some cars cars with DPF's on them - C1 Low SAPS (0.5% ash) C2 Mid SAPS (0.8% ash).

 

[8ob]

A lot of the sludge problems in older car engines was caused by the short runs, also made worse by having no undertrays, big frontal areas, large cooling systems and having an engine driven fan pulling a hurricane through the engine bay. Ran for an hour or two at a time they were never a problem. Modern car engines with undertrays, a smaller frontal area, smaller cooling systems and leccy fans can cope better.

Bob