prepman
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It looks smaller than that (7") in pic. Yes the lathe I would guess a small one?
- Thread starter Joe 90
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prepman
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So look out for seismic action along the English/Welsh fault line.
"The 1984, magnitude 5.4, Menai Strait earthquake was the largest onshore UK event for over100 years. The epicentre was located in northern Llŷn, north Wales and the quake originated at a depth of approximately 22 km in the Earth's crust."
prepman
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You're just not trying hard enough.
Other Daniel
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Being level isn't that important. What is important is that there is no twist
or bend in the lathe bed. Obviously this is more easily checked when the
machine is set level to start with. But, in reality, the lathe would perform
exactly as required if it were sitting on a slope of 45°. As long as the ways
were co-planer.
The only real issue commanding that a lathe be level is that of the coolant
drain.
@Cheesie summed it up rather well.
or bend in the lathe bed. Obviously this is more easily checked when the
machine is set level to start with. But, in reality, the lathe would perform
exactly as required if it were sitting on a slope of 45°. As long as the ways
were co-planer.
The only real issue commanding that a lathe be level is that of the coolant
drain.
@Cheesie summed it up rather well.
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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my S7 and square top student are both free standing and on steel frames...
apart from needing a little extra hight I can now move em around with a pallet truck to clean the floor....
apart from needing a little extra hight I can now move em around with a pallet truck to clean the floor....
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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thinking about it both mills are the same....1's a bridgeport.....need extra care when moving that around.....lol...
addjunkie
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You want something a bit better quality than the lidl calliper, Used is fine if a quality brand, and the bits are all there. I only use a calliper for rough work, use micrometers for consistency.
My Harrison 140 has hollow jacking bolts on each corner, so i leveled it crossways at headstock end then put a wedge under the centreline at tailstock end , (three points dont twist) got it leveled longways then wound the hollow bolts down at tailstock end until they just touched down. Big dollop of Bodyfiller shoved under each corner & allowed to set hard. Didnt bother bolting it to the floor. Hasnt moved.
I can see why ships have them bolted down, they tend to roll about a bit!
I can see why ships have them bolted down, they tend to roll about a bit!
Is that 32 jack oil the correct oil for the lathe.
www.eurocarparts.com
Carlube Jack Oil (Is0 32) 500ml | Euro Car Parts
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MattF
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Correct oil in what regard? Which parts will you be lubricating with it?
Mine has never been bolted to the floor either.
not done it yet
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It depends entirely on the individual case.
Without knowing the details of the machine, cabinet and floor, no definitive answer can be provided.
My lathe is on a substantial, rigid cabinet which is 3mm folded sheet steel bolted to a vey heavy 1/2” thick cast iron/steel base 6” high (with a complete solid 1/2” floor - so weighs nearly as much as my lathe). On a flat concrete floor it does not need bolting down! Some installations can be top heavy and require holding down (or widening the base). Further, the lathe is only bolted tightly at the headstock end and supported (not tightly fixed) at the tailstock end. Other lathes have different requirements.
Permanent structures are better secured in position.. but the flooring must be appropriate, too.
Chippie
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No big bolts or adjustable feet here…
My SPG2129, which is similar looking machine to Warco’s WM290, weighs in at 200kg+….Not bolted to the floor, it stands on a sheet metal fab’d stand with cork sheeting under its feet/top of stand/suds tray, with bolts through securing the lathe/stand assembly…
The stand itself is sat on a plywood sheet, which in turn rests on the garage concrete floor…
My 626 mill is just the same….
Not had an issue in yrs of use…
My SPG2129, which is similar looking machine to Warco’s WM290, weighs in at 200kg+….Not bolted to the floor, it stands on a sheet metal fab’d stand with cork sheeting under its feet/top of stand/suds tray, with bolts through securing the lathe/stand assembly…
The stand itself is sat on a plywood sheet, which in turn rests on the garage concrete floor…
My 626 mill is just the same….
Not had an issue in yrs of use…
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not done it yet
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Second hand is more likely to lead to disappointment - unless you are certain of the item condition and know, for sure, it is not a counterfeit product. Same applies to new, regarding the counterfeit clones.
I have a cheap lidl digital caliper but find it hard to be consistent by keeping it square and reading it when the piece is in the machine. It's super 7.
For many instances, I use a left-handed digital caliper - easy to read when measuring, while machining close to finished size. Then a good micrometer (checked for accuracy with slip gauges). I don’t care whether metric or imperial (all my larger micrometers are imperial,’cos they were cheaper).
For precise measurements and ease of reading, I use my digi micrometers - but I remove the batteries when not in use. I’ve only got 0-25 and 25-50 mm digi’s. Again checked, with slip gauges, if being really fussy - which is not that often.
prepman
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Not if they're bolted to the harbour.
addjunkie
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Serious issue with ships lathes apart from they are more often than not abused, is brunelling of bearings due to vibration. Dont need to be that accurate anyway as most of us marine guys are rough as.Not if they're bolted to the harbour.
Best time to machine anything is either in drydock or whe; its aground, neither of which is very common!
prepman
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Yes a client shipped a large air compressor (5Khp) from China to Nigeria and didn't 'block' the white metal bearings for transit which started disintegrating on first run. Good thing is I only spent a week in Lagos. Bad thing was I had to commute between 2 jobs Oman and Nigeria repeatedly.
