- Thread starter Pete.
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Pete.
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Nice, did you find the bit that broke off?!!!!
Yeah it was in the glove box
Anyway, head rebuilt and ready to be fitted. Gotta swap out the cam chain, guides and pulley first but it might be next weekend now as the weather looks pretty bad.
Pete.
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Head is back on now. I got home Friday night and cleaned up the block, stripped out the old camchain and guides then fitted the head gasket and put the head in place.
I spent a lot of time looking for one of the hardened washers before giving up in the dark. I have a metal tote tray which I used to keep all of the bits in and I was sur eI had everything but in the end I went out in the workshop , turned a washer, ground both sides flat and used it without hardening.
Then yesterday after work I assembled the new cam chain and sprockets, went to fit the top engine mount and what do you think I found stuck to the underside? Yep, one hardened washer
Anyway, I deliberately put the one I made on the last bots for torquing just in case it did turn up so it was nothing to swap them over.
So today I'm going to button it all up and hopefully she'll be back to full steam ahead.
Oh yeah, apart from the tiny crack I found in the 4-branch that needs a spot of weld and the rotted exhaust mid-section that needs changing
I spent a lot of time looking for one of the hardened washers before giving up in the dark. I have a metal tote tray which I used to keep all of the bits in and I was sur eI had everything but in the end I went out in the workshop , turned a washer, ground both sides flat and used it without hardening.
Then yesterday after work I assembled the new cam chain and sprockets, went to fit the top engine mount and what do you think I found stuck to the underside? Yep, one hardened washer
Anyway, I deliberately put the one I made on the last bots for torquing just in case it did turn up so it was nothing to swap them over.
So today I'm going to button it all up and hopefully she'll be back to full steam ahead.
Oh yeah, apart from the tiny crack I found in the 4-branch that needs a spot of weld and the rotted exhaust mid-section that needs changing
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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Mislaid a 5/16 engine mounting bolt on a helicopter 10 hours later found it in side aa 25mm box section that made up the service frame we hung the turbines on, the box was horizontal and it was about 75mm inside it 
welded closers on all the ends after that
welded closers on all the ends after that
Pete.
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Well, today has been a marathon and no mistake.
I got the cams all timed and torqued yeterday afternoon after work, just leaving re-assembly of the manifolds and ancilliaries today which should have been an easy run.
Got it all put back together, cranked it over. I got a few half-hearted pops but nothing else just cranking.
I went through the various steps - check spark, check compression, pull the cover off and check cam timing. All three perfect. Pulled the injector rail and gave it a quick crank - all injectors firing as they should. Tried a few more times until the battery started running down a bit then put it on charge for a while.
Went back and same thing happened, just a few weak attempts to fire and nothing else. Decided to pull the injectors out again and check that they were continuing to fire as the cranking went on. Did this and the oddest thing happened. With the injectors firing into the free air behind the intake manifold, they engine was actually trying to run. Ok, so it's over-fuelling so much that it's running on the little vapour being drawn in the air intake/injector holes. I pulled off the throttle body to check the operation and it seemed to be working correctly. So then I thought, if it's overfuelling it should rev straight up with no throttle blade to restrict it so I put the injectors back in, left the throttle body off the intake but still plugged in. Cranked the engine and it started and idled (very roughly). Whilst it was running I grabbed the throttle body and held it onto the manifold and the idle settled right down.
I didn't understand any of this at all but I went ahead and fitted the throttle body, fixed the injectors into place, test-ran it and it fired up normally but idled rough (more on why below).
After this I re-assembled everything except the battery box and cold air intake. Ran the engine up again and it was a bit rough running. As it warmed up it was clear that it was not running on No1. Swapped out the coil for No2 and now No2 was not running, so we now have a dead coil which I'll replace tomorrow.
So, I'm at a complete loss to explain the above shenanigans, the over-fuelling and why/how it righted itself, but I'm pleased to say that the engine is up and running and once I fit the new coil I'm sure it will be back to it's good old reliable self.
I got the cams all timed and torqued yeterday afternoon after work, just leaving re-assembly of the manifolds and ancilliaries today which should have been an easy run.
Got it all put back together, cranked it over. I got a few half-hearted pops but nothing else just cranking.
I went through the various steps - check spark, check compression, pull the cover off and check cam timing. All three perfect. Pulled the injector rail and gave it a quick crank - all injectors firing as they should. Tried a few more times until the battery started running down a bit then put it on charge for a while.
Went back and same thing happened, just a few weak attempts to fire and nothing else. Decided to pull the injectors out again and check that they were continuing to fire as the cranking went on. Did this and the oddest thing happened. With the injectors firing into the free air behind the intake manifold, they engine was actually trying to run. Ok, so it's over-fuelling so much that it's running on the little vapour being drawn in the air intake/injector holes. I pulled off the throttle body to check the operation and it seemed to be working correctly. So then I thought, if it's overfuelling it should rev straight up with no throttle blade to restrict it so I put the injectors back in, left the throttle body off the intake but still plugged in. Cranked the engine and it started and idled (very roughly). Whilst it was running I grabbed the throttle body and held it onto the manifold and the idle settled right down.
I didn't understand any of this at all but I went ahead and fitted the throttle body, fixed the injectors into place, test-ran it and it fired up normally but idled rough (more on why below).
After this I re-assembled everything except the battery box and cold air intake. Ran the engine up again and it was a bit rough running. As it warmed up it was clear that it was not running on No1. Swapped out the coil for No2 and now No2 was not running, so we now have a dead coil which I'll replace tomorrow.
So, I'm at a complete loss to explain the above shenanigans, the over-fuelling and why/how it righted itself, but I'm pleased to say that the engine is up and running and once I fit the new coil I'm sure it will be back to it's good old reliable self.
Windy Miller
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This has been a proper mission for you Mate!
Pete.
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Was the duff coil on the same cylinder that had the munched valve? Maybe that caused a load of unburnt fuel to finally ignite and damage it with a massive missfire
No way to tell mate the coils went into a box when I removed them. It's an interesting thought but who the hell knows?
daedalusminos
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Airlock in the fuel line?
Plug top coils are pretty delicate things, so there is every chance removing them and refitting is enough to send them over the edge.
If this is the era of engine I think it is, it might need a MAF reset, otherwise it'll keep throwing MAF/O2 faults, but give it a run and see what happens.
If this is the era of engine I think it is, it might need a MAF reset, otherwise it'll keep throwing MAF/O2 faults, but give it a run and see what happens.
Wallace
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Looks likely part of the valve might have bounced in the chamber before going out into the exhaust and the bits are sitting on the Cat honeycomb. It's a great filter system for catching grenaded parts!Nice, did you find the bit that broke off?!!!!
Our Golf mk4 came to us as a non runner with burnt exhaust valves and low compression. The coil packs had been failing melting the Cat internals (glowing in the dark) burning the valves.
Pete.
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Perhaps the failing coil on this one is what did the same thing.
Anyway, I have now removed the exhaust and welded it up. Not easy to weld those bellows sections and not pretty either but I have to get her back on the road and the MOT is due in a few days.
premmington
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Pete.
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Nice - but this is an original system from 2008 so in much rougher shape. I welded up the bellows on her previous car in a similar way but this one I had to cut out the first two ribs as they were badly moth-eaten, and welded a sleeve from the fixing point to the crest of the third rib. It's only a stop-gap measure as being an original system she has to get both mid section and tail box which is another couple of hundred quid on top of the £300 this has already cost.
Onoff
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Only just read this.....
At the time you posted I had Peugeot Planet 2000 here. Posted it back Friday just gone!
For future reference I have a compression tester here, also a pressure tester/gauge to go on the expansion bottle for head gasket diagnostics etc.
SWMBO's got a 1.4i petrol 206, I know it intimately. Year 2000 it's now like Trigger's Broom.
Tbh I'd buy another early, pre plex one like this tomorrow.
The last fun fest was a duff (although brand new
) injector leading to a misfire on one cylinder. The wasted spark system makes it difficult to diagnose as 1 & 4 fire together as do 3 & 4 via the coil pack. Even PP2000 only got me so far.
In the end sussed with an IR thermometer.
At the time you posted I had Peugeot Planet 2000 here. Posted it back Friday just gone!
For future reference I have a compression tester here, also a pressure tester/gauge to go on the expansion bottle for head gasket diagnostics etc.
SWMBO's got a 1.4i petrol 206, I know it intimately. Year 2000 it's now like Trigger's Broom.
Tbh I'd buy another early, pre plex one like this tomorrow.
The last fun fest was a duff (although brand new
) injector leading to a misfire on one cylinder. The wasted spark system makes it difficult to diagnose as 1 & 4 fire together as do 3 & 4 via the coil pack. Even PP2000 only got me so far. In the end sussed with an IR thermometer.
Pete.
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- Kent, UK
I wish I knew you had Planet I could definitely have used that. Never mind it's all back together now with the new coil fitted and ready for the road again. Hopefully my exhaust repair will pass the MOT it's not 100% fully sealing (new collar on a rusty pipe).
I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to the thread it really helped me along.
Cheers
Pete.
I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to the thread it really helped me along.
Cheers
Pete.
Pete.
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Still battling with this motor. After re-fitting the head and getting it run up I had a low oil pressure fault come up when it got to full working temperature. Now, she had reported this some time before and I took a look at it and found oil leaking from the oil pressure switch. Because the motor sounded fine I told her not to worry about it, I would order a new switch and ft it when I got a minute if she could bring the car over.
When I rebuilt the head I also fitted the new switch and as I say the fault appeared along with inlet cam timing error. I put a gauge on the engine and it was reading 2.5bar when cold but falling off to 0.5bar when up to temp. Thinking it might be the pump, I removed that and stripped it down. There was some tiny amount of scoring but not what I'd call bad for a 75k mile engine.
Nevertheless I bought a new pump for nearly 200 quid but that didn't solve the problem. It improved things slightly so the oil warning only came on at idle when fully up to temp. The engine still sounded sweet just this oil pressure was low.
Then I suspected the camshaft dephaser sprockets might be worn and letting oil by. The sprockets are fed oil pressure via a solenoid to adjust the cam timing on these VVT engines. So I bought 2 new sprockets (£95) but by this time I had got hold of the service software and looking through the repair procedure there are 2 oil rings on each camshaft that send oil to the cam to feed the sprockets, and the original sprung metal seals are replaced by more modern teflon ones. The procedure calls for those seals to be replaced. This means removing the cams which is no trivial task (well, replacing them isn't). I looked around and could only find two seals for sale anywhere. I ordered those on Wednesday evening and paid for express delivery, but they have not yet turned up.
Today I pulled the cams out and found one of those metal oil control rings to be broken:
So that's where I'm at. 4 weekends and several evenings (not to mention several hundred in parts) and I'm still trying to get her back on the road.
When I rebuilt the head I also fitted the new switch and as I say the fault appeared along with inlet cam timing error. I put a gauge on the engine and it was reading 2.5bar when cold but falling off to 0.5bar when up to temp. Thinking it might be the pump, I removed that and stripped it down. There was some tiny amount of scoring but not what I'd call bad for a 75k mile engine.
Nevertheless I bought a new pump for nearly 200 quid but that didn't solve the problem. It improved things slightly so the oil warning only came on at idle when fully up to temp. The engine still sounded sweet just this oil pressure was low.
Then I suspected the camshaft dephaser sprockets might be worn and letting oil by. The sprockets are fed oil pressure via a solenoid to adjust the cam timing on these VVT engines. So I bought 2 new sprockets (£95) but by this time I had got hold of the service software and looking through the repair procedure there are 2 oil rings on each camshaft that send oil to the cam to feed the sprockets, and the original sprung metal seals are replaced by more modern teflon ones. The procedure calls for those seals to be replaced. This means removing the cams which is no trivial task (well, replacing them isn't). I looked around and could only find two seals for sale anywhere. I ordered those on Wednesday evening and paid for express delivery, but they have not yet turned up.
Today I pulled the cams out and found one of those metal oil control rings to be broken:
So that's where I'm at. 4 weekends and several evenings (not to mention several hundred in parts) and I'm still trying to get her back on the road.
