tap that fit into a drill.

[johnakay]

is there such a thing as tap specialy made to fit into a hand drill chuck?
I'm looking for a 8mm x 1.25 pitch.

 

[JayRS4]

Not that i`ve heard of, but I often put normal taps in a pillar drill to ensure there upright (or more upright than in a tap wrench) then just turn the chuck by hand, easy enough if it`s a decent and sharp tap.

 

[madkayaker]

you can get tap and drill combined drills

 

[Mikey D]

I use ordinary taps in my cordless drill all the time , either grip them with the 4 flats or on the round shank ..

saves possible breakages gripping on the round shank ie more likly to slip in the chuck

cheers mike

 

[madkayaker]

Hitch has said in past put a tack on the side to stop them slipping. have tapped many holes with the tap in the dewalt

 

[JimM]

Not sure if this is what you are getting at but if you want to tap under 'power' then I think you're supposed to use a spiral flute tap like this one

http://************/39bf45l

HTH

Jim

 

[Garreth]

Search on the web for hexagon drive taps

I use one of these for site work (usually on thinnish steel)

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/...d=searchProducts&searchTerm=248-5560&x=20&y=8

Garreth

 

[hareng]

I wouldnt bother John, M8 X 1.25 is a course metric pitch and available in abundance.
I would assume the tap is turning this is a problem with worn and ****** chucks. For beefy stuff in the lathe i use a revolving centre and spanner.
Hand drills, powered handheld drills done 100's of holes, bench drills and millers i just use a decent chuck with coolant or cutting compound on slowest revs- ploughs through where by hand you would really be struggling feeling the tap flex.
There are collets with rubber dampers available much like ER milling types but never use.

If slipping could be taps worn out.
Red band taps are for motorised threading, they work superb and have only just started buying them.
Carbon taps are cheaper but dont last like HSS. In saying that they cut better than HSS in aluminium but no where near as good as the red band.

 

[johnakay]

the drill that I use is a metabo it cost me £140/£150 so its no cheap shyt!
the chuck is key less. I'm not sure if this is a good thing.
it has a forward/reverse switch on either side and variable speed
I use rocol cutting grease or something like that, I got it from work years ago it was used specially for tapping.
tap is HSS I only use good quality taps.
putting a blob of weld should do the trip,we used to do this, my memory is slipping.its been almost 15/20 years since I work in a proper workshop.
thanks for the replies.

 

[brightspark]

rocol is the best cutting compound the metabo keyles chucks are the buisness as well .the same as all metabo power tools . i have 4 of there drills and a diamond chaser they give years of good service

 

[hareng]

Metabo chucks are very good i have two keyless, a big Jacobs, 2 Rohm and rarely experience drills and taps twisting. The second Metabo does a bit though and in better nick than the first bought in 92.
For the bigger taps i use a large 3/4" Jacobs keyed.

The Dewalt uses a Rohm as well and i cant get that to slip, its on a ratchet and spindle lock, shame about the batteries.
Low revs plenty of torque.

Have a look on the taps that spin, most likely you will see one or two rings rather than the jaw spread. That would suggest the jaws are not clamping parallel.

 

[Pete.]

is there such a thing as tap specialy made to fit into a hand drill chuck?
I'm looking for a 8mm x 1.25 pitch.

Try a spiral point or spiral flute tap - they are made for power-tapping because they reduce the effect of the chips clogging the flutes.

 

[Pete.]

Or you can get these things for thinner material (up to 3mm)

 

[""kb]

If you intend to use a tap in a hand held drill this can be a little tricky from 8mm upwards, and also use a machine tap as opposed to a hand tap and dont use a spiral flute tap as your more the likely to break using a hand drill, the spiral flute tap is made for use in blind holes so that the swarf lifts upwards out of the hole, and if the chuck on your drill is a keyed chuck more the better and as mentioned use a cutting compound which makes it easier for you and the tap and produces a better thread.

 

[brightspark]

why would a keyed chuck be better than a keyless one ?? i use both .mainly keyless at work and hardly had a drill slip yet

 

[Hitch]

Hand held mains drills are a bit dodgey for taping, i prefer to use a cordless.
As Mk mentioned, to stop spinning, a small tack just below the square eliminates spinning.

 

[""kb]

why would a keyed chuck be better than a keyless one ?? i use both .mainly keyless at work and hardly had a drill slip yet

I presume your keyless chuck you use at work is not a hand held drill is it ?
I also use both at work for tapping yes mainly the keyless chuck but anything over 1/2" 12mm I use the keyed chuck as it gives a stronger grip.

 

[brightspark]

most hand held drills have the half inch chucks fitted mine are 650 w. as said i have both . keyed and keyless ive never found any diffrence between the 2 any bigger than half inch i use sds chucks

 

[""kb]

most hand held drills have the half inch chucks fitted mine are 650 w. as said i have both . keyed and keyless ive never found any diffrence between the 2 any bigger than half inch i use sds chucks

I must say I am no expert on hand held drills but the two I have at home are both 3/8" chucks and yes one keyed and one keyless and would never try to tap a hole with them not even small holes as it is far easier just to use a tap wrench. I would love to see anyone try to tap a 1/2" hole full flute length with a hand held pistol drill even in aluminium.

 

[brightspark]

I must say I am no expert on hand held drills but the two I have at home are both 3/8" chucks and yes one keyed and one keyless and would never try to tap a hole with them not even small holes as it is far easier just to use a tap wrench. I would love to see anyone try to tap a 1/2" hole full flute length with a hand held pistol drill even in aluminium.

quite frankly why would u want to anyhow ? cutting forward they will be no swarf clearance. back off