Starter battery for Lister 3 cyl diesel stand by gennie.

[wristpin]

Need a new starter battery for the old Lister stand by gennie. Yonks since I’ve bought a battery and
I’m a bit out of touch with terminology etc. Advice appreciated.

 

[armalites]

Need a new starter battery for the old Lister stand by gennie. Yonks since I’ve bought a battery and
I’m a bit out of touch with terminology etc. Advice appreciated.

If you have the old battery just search the numbers on that.

Tayna are very good in my experience but don't automatically pick the one they recommend because often you can get a better brand/warranty/spec if you look at their full list of same size batteries

 

[merryman]

If the old battery is missing or numbers gone, the physical size, voltage and which way round the terminal posts need to be will tell the supplier what to give you. Capacities can vary for the same size battery, you need as big as possible for a diesel. Stand by stuff is better with exotic batteries that can be left flat, but the cost is usually prohibitive

 

[frank horton]

get the biggest battery that will fit in the tray....
I would never use anything below 100amp hours for that sorta job.....bigger is def better.......
smaller batteries will do the job but not for as long PLUS those batteries dont have an easy life....
I always buy Yuasa when poss....
pls compare the cost of Gel as well as Lead Acid.......

 

[GRW]

3 cyl air-cooled? 1500rpm? Probably an S or a T series lump (S has domed rocker covers, T's are flat). The model will be part of the serial number (in the middle there'll be 2 letters followed by a 3, indication how many cyl).
So SR3, ST3, TS3, TR3, TL3 or similar.
Note a lot of S-series started thru windings, not a starter motor - and these were 24v, not 12v. If its got a conventional starter motor it's 12v.

Anyway - at 600cc per pot, and lots of compression they take some turning-over. Probably a type 644 or 664, 100AH battery needed (typical "tractor" battery).
(Some T-Series were fitted with a smaller 75ah battery, but a 75ah isn't really man enough).

G.

 

[qwakers]

not always 24v, i have used a 3 cylinder lister with field winding start generator on it and it was definitely 12v...

 

[moose]

A lot of boats use the air cooled Lister and most would be 12v, our boat has the Lister LPW3 which is the water cooled version and that is 12v, I think our battery is 100amp battery.

 

[8ob]

If its manually started and the decompressors are used it wouldn't need much of a battery.

Bob

 

[GRW]

A lot of boats use the air cooled Lister and most would be 12v, our boat has the Lister LPW3 which is the water cooled version and that is 12v, I think our battery is 100amp battery.

All the Alpha Series engines (LPA's & LPW's) use conventional starters and are all 12v. They are a newer design and lighter than the old S & T Series lumps, and available in 3000rpm variants as well as 1500rpm. Also they are hydraulic tappet engines.

 

[wristpin]

Thanks guys. A new Yuasa 3031 sorted the issue
Is leaving it permanently connected to a conditioner such as an Aldi XS good or bad? Or perhaps a day a month ?

 

[armalites]

Thanks guys. A new Yuasa 3031 sorted the issue
Is leaving it permanently connected to a conditioner such as an Aldi XS good or bad? Or perhaps a day a month ?

I'm never convinced leaving them connected does them any good. I think connected on a timer is a good idea so the battery does get some cycling.

I had my ride one mower on a conditioner and the battery didn't last.

 

[addjunkie]

Thanks guys. A new Yuasa 3031 sorted the issue
Is leaving it permanently connected to a conditioner such as an Aldi XS good or bad? Or perhaps a day a month ?

I keep both my bike, and generator on optimate battery charger conditioners. Bike batteries seem to last well, 2nd in 20 years. Generator origional lasted about 2 years, replacement 6 so far. I do run both reasonably regularly too.

who knows its always a gamble with batteries.

 

[GRW]

not always 24v, i have used a 3 cylinder lister with field winding start generator on it and it was definitely 12v...

I've seen a lot of the old start-thru-winding (generally Brush mfr unit) alternators as assembled by Lister-Petter & HSPP - but I've never yet seen one designed for 12v.

I have seen a couple where it was a 24v unit, but someone had put just a single 12v battery on it though .

 

[qwakers]

I checked carefully, it really is 12v.

 

[8ob]

I checked carefully, it really is 12v.

Not sure about the bigger sets, the startomatic single cylinder lister I had was 12v. It was never that lively spinning over on the decompressor, I would have thought anything bigger would probably need to be 24v

Bob

 

[Blobber]

Thanks guys. A new Yuasa 3031 sorted the issue
Is leaving it permanently connected to a conditioner such as an Aldi XS good or bad? Or perhaps a day a month ?

Im not a big fan of leaving any battery on charge especially overnight, seen too many fires so mine only get charged during the day when im about

 

[GRW]

Not sure about the bigger sets, the startomatic single cylinder lister I had was 12v. It was never that lively spinning over on the decompressor, I would have thought anything bigger would probably need to be 24v

Bob

It was generally twins and triples with winding start I came across. The SR1 / ST1 only being good for about 3kva, so the twin at 6-ish (3-cyl at 10-ish) were more popular.
Maybe with a 1-pot they (as you say) might be ok with 12v.
(The last of the S' and all of the T's had conventional 12v starter motors. Could well be some 24v versions of those out there too though, as Military used to insist on 24v in their specs).