- Thread starter fizzy
- Start date
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,242
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
thats up a height . it wants all the damp plaster removing and tank the wall you can get a kit from wickes . a bucket of the tanking slurry and a can of sbr bonding agent it gives the instructions on the pasting it on . then it wants backing coat plaster use hardwall plaster its salt free then skim with multifinish. thats how sovereign do it
8ob
Member
- Messages
- 14,371
- Location
- Nescient in the vale
Gutter has now been fixed and new windows .feels dry so maybe the original problem has gone away.
Find where the water is coming from.
My brother had similar issues with his old flat he now rents, and the leasing agent got a specialist in who's recommended 'solution' was to seal the stone wall at a quite substantial cost.
Thankfully he knew a good stone mason who had a quick look, and pointed out that the upstairs water pipe was an old iron pipe, and going by the rust marks, it had probably corroded through within the stone work and the water was just seeping all the way down through the stonework.
He said replace the pipe, and it would probably take the wall a few months to dry out.
My brother had similar issues with his old flat he now rents, and the leasing agent got a specialist in who's recommended 'solution' was to seal the stone wall at a quite substantial cost.
Thankfully he knew a good stone mason who had a quick look, and pointed out that the upstairs water pipe was an old iron pipe, and going by the rust marks, it had probably corroded through within the stone work and the water was just seeping all the way down through the stonework.
He said replace the pipe, and it would probably take the wall a few months to dry out.
Cheers.
Won't be me doing it the mess and finish would be horrendous
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,242
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
still needs the plaster removing and sealing otherwise all the salts will still come back and ruin the decorations
- Messages
- 14,665
- Location
- UK
Treat the ingress problem before trying to patch up the damage or you'll just be weeing in the wind.
My pal tried for years to deal with similar. He relented in the end and got a company in to deal with it. Peter Cox i think. They identified and fixed it straight away for a modest sum.
Patching is the easy bit - hack it out back to bare brick/block/whatever then replaster. Filler just falls off and the salts constantly leach through the paint
Gaz will be along in a bit to tell you the house needs knocking down and rebuilding (joke, obvs)
My pal tried for years to deal with similar. He relented in the end and got a company in to deal with it. Peter Cox i think. They identified and fixed it straight away for a modest sum.
Patching is the easy bit - hack it out back to bare brick/block/whatever then replaster. Filler just falls off and the salts constantly leach through the paint
Gaz will be along in a bit to tell you the house needs knocking down and rebuilding (joke, obvs)
My neighbours recently asked if anyone had a good surveyor that could help with intractible damp. One did. He advised that they open windows and ventilate if they were not going to heat the whole house. Whilst that looks very damp, we have a nasty habit of putting double glazing and draughtproofing in and forgetting old houses were draughty "for a reason". Fortunately when I refurbed my house I put a whole house MVHR system in while there was a lack of floors/ceilings etc, so no more damp for me. Maybe a positive pressure ventilation fan would help with some of that damp?????
winchman
Member
- Messages
- 6,212
- Location
- Merseyside
Before you do anything look ate Peter Wards Damp videos https://www.youtube.com/user/stibnite11/videos
Morrisman
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 8,933
- Location
- Staffordshire, England
My dads 1930's house had damp in several places on outer walls when they bought it 30 years ago. Recommendations from the surveyor were for various drilling and injecting solutions etc.
My dad had a look and simply removed all the soil that had been piled above the damp course in the flower bed outside.... damp went away and never came back.
My dad had a look and simply removed all the soil that had been piled above the damp course in the flower bed outside.... damp went away and never came back.
gaz1
Member
- Messages
- 20,141
- Location
- westyorkshire
thats actually the wrong solution for the problem
the issue starts is many of us have old houses the worst being the ones with soiled filled cavaties
even malcolm suffers from dampTreat the ingress problem before trying to patch up the damage or you'll just be weeing in the wind.
My pal tried for years to deal with similar. He relented in the end and got a company in to deal with it. Peter Cox i think. They identified and fixed it straight away for a modest sum.
Patching is the easy bit - hack it out back to bare brick/block/whatever then replaster. Filler just falls off and the salts constantly leach through the paint
Gaz will be along in a bit to tell you the house needs knocking down and rebuilding (joke, obvs)
many of the old houses dont have a water barrier and there are mostly filled with soil between the walls
the new way is the issue as the walls no longer breath and let the water thats rising in them out and into the atmosphere
badly pointed bricks or stone damage caused by earthquakes or heavy traffic can and will crack the pointing on propertys
plaster does seal water in
its either go back to bare walls or swap to lime plastered walls
the alternative is a petition with internal french drain
water damages brick and really damages stone however scotish granite i suspect it wont as its alot harder than the yorkshire stone
Last edited:
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,242
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
mines 150 year old and ive cured all the damp problems and salt migrating 
i did it all 30 years ago and not a mark on the walls since and as for porous bricks ive repointed the house sand blasted it and its had 2 coats of silicone sealer
i did it all 30 years ago and not a mark on the walls since and as for porous bricks ive repointed the house sand blasted it and its had 2 coats of silicone sealer
gaz1
Member
- Messages
- 20,141
- Location
- westyorkshire
your issue is high in possibly old built no cavity walls
the main cause of those issues is windows above the room below and also the guttering roof area
bad roof slates pooring water inbetween the walls of soiled filed walls will over saturate the soil inside of them causing your issue
windows above also cause this issue as the water gets in via poorly sealed windows and gets into soiled filled cavity area like what you are seeing
generaly found with old school stone guttering where the seal has been broken can cause the soiled filled walls to become saturated with water
the more rain you get the worse it becomes
Wildefalcon
Member
- Messages
- 2,524
- Location
- Gloucestershire, England
As Gaz suggests, remove the gypsum based materials, and replace with lime. It needs to breathe, and gypsum stops that.
