Advice please! N00b

[Gizmo.Y]

BIG thanks to the tutorial on here to begin with, its what i used to learn from, i read the tutorial and but it into physical practice to some success!

Just a few questions...

Heres a couple of my welds..

Showing the peice of 0.8mm sheet ive cut and shaping it to the hole

Closeup

Started to grind down

Ran out of time so applied to etch primer.

Now the problems...

My welder seems a bit tempremental, its a "Sureweld Monomig 150".

It has 6 Amp settings, Wirespeed, Timing adjustment, and a 4th knob (Which i think is a Burnback option?)

i understand its best to weld on the lowest amps possible when welding thin metal. however, the welder will not, i repeat, will not weld at all on settings 1-3, 4 doesnt work, and 5-6 are about the only settings i can get it to penetrate on.

the problem being im scared of blowing holes in the fresh metal, and therefore adapting a very quick, butt weld method literally welding in no more, than 1 second pulses.

im getting mixed results, either getting to much pentration (blow through), Perfect or non at all (Surface build up), this is using the same settings.

im using just normal "pub gas" got from a local gas firm, set at 60psi out the cylinder.

Ive been welding for no more than a total of 4hrs (from first learning to current state 4 months down the line)

if someone is close to PE25, to come and give me a crash course in welding and to have a look at my welder to see if its set up correctly, much appreciated, will pay beer tokens/ petrol monies

 

[Gizmo.Y]

Just to add.

I think im using 0.8 wire, welding 0.8mm Honda Steel, and welding in fresh 0.8mm Mild steel

 

[zzr1200]

Hi Gismo, tis a pity you didn't post last weekend I was staying over at Ingoldmells....I could have done with a reason to escape for an hour or two....

Anyway back to your problem, have you replaced the liner/mig tip in the torch as the welder appears visually to have done more than 4 hours work?

If the wire speed is changing as you move the torch around it could be a worn/dirty/damaged liner, or incorrectly adjusted wire feeder roller pressure.

For all car bodywork welding you'd be better of investing in roll of 0.6 mm wire.

Finally how close are you holding he torch to the weld joint, I've never used Co2 for welding, only a gas mix but some of your welds seem to have a lack of gas shielding in places?

 

[Gizmo.Y]

hi there! tis a shame!

the welder is quite old, i know my dads had this for more than 3 years.

when i said 4 hours, i mean the total time ive been welding is 4 hrs.

I have no idea what condition the liner is, or what cost/ how to replace it (as its not my welder)

A couple of welds have no sheilding, again, a fault with the welder, its showing 60psi on the guage, but when the torch is pressed, nothing comes out, its a bit tempremental, it did it 2 or 3 times whilst welding that peice (Hense the welds that look un sheilded)

Im holding the torch between 5-10mm away from the surface

 

[zzr1200]

If a roll of wire has ever had surface rust on it and then the welder is used the rust is transfered to the liner (usually nylon) and increases the friction which can stop the wire feeding depending on the tightness of bends in the torch.

As we bend/move/twist the torch lead (with a dirty liner) the wire slows down, stops and jumps, hence the wire feed/welding becomes erratic.

Torch liners aren't expensive and easy-ish to fit, if I were you I would contact "Weldequip's Shop" (at the top of the page) tell him which welder/model you have and take his advice as to what you need to replace, the difference will be worth the cost/wait. Do a search for "liner replacement" there should be loads of info and the results.

As for the gas flow, if the torch lead includes the gas valve I'd consider replacing the lead as a complete unit or changing the lead unit and fitting a gas valve but this depends on cost. Again Weldequip's advice is without doubt the best here, depending on how much you/your father are willing to spend on the welder.

 

[Gizmo.Y]

Well my dads just imformed me hes "Fecked" the welder this morning, no details on whats what!

i was hoping to pick up my own little welder for under £100 that will do the job just nicely, but not a clue were to start/ what to buy!

 

[zzr1200]

Well my dads just imformed me hes "Fecked" the welder this morning, no details on whats what!

Arr, shame you could always try to repair it, peeps here would probably advise/help.

i was hoping to pick up my own little welder for under £100 that will do the job just nicely, but not a clue were to start/ what to buy!

A usable mig will cost a lot more, unless your lucky and someone here has a cheap s/hand unit.

 

[rich74310]

Thats a bummer about the welder.

What i always do before i weld thinish metal is make a mock up piece away from the vehicle.This is to set the power settings correctly which will hopefully save blowing to many holes in the car body work.I know its hard with car bodies as some places differ in thickness but it does help.

Let us all know how you get on

Good luck

Rich

 

[Gizmo.Y]

Right, so hes not ******ed the welder at all.

What hes done is.

He was welding when all of a sudden the tip on the end of the gun fell off (the small thing that screws on and off).

It seems to have snapped off leaving the threaded part of the tip still in the gun, im going to try and get it out tomorrow and get some new tips from halfords.

Ive managed to borrow my mates Clarke Mig100 for now

 

[candygt]

If hes snapped the shroud off you might need a new swan neck.. my cheapo SIP mig was glued and the glue just broke off leaving nothing to attach the shroud to.

 

[Gizmo.Y]

My dads a knob!

story is, he was unscrewing the shroud as it was getting in his way, as he screwed it off, it undid this fitting slightly...

As he started welding again, it fell off. he tried to put it back on, but wouldnt screw on (Hense he though it had snapped off on the threads)

I got to screw it on, then realise its a reverse thread!

So, welder is now working again.