- Thread starter scottmk1
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brightspark
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luceco from screwfix arent to bad
Agroshield
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Whatever you buy, open the box before you leave the shop. A lot of floodlights now have a dangling tail of cable that requires you to buy a waterproof junction box. You cannot open the light to wire the cable direct.
Blobber
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They come with the cable attached to get over part P i believe for the home DIYer
MetalMonkey
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I always find it is the PIR module that fails well before the rest of the light. My preference now is a separate PIR sensor and light. The PIR sensors from Timeguard seem to last
jack-daniels
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Ledvance (Osram) are quite decent.
Never had any luck with LAP products.
Never had any luck with LAP products.
brightspark
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better off getting a separate pir to fitting. cheaper if one goes wrong to replace
I have LED floodlights controlled by a single photocell controller.
The non-replaceable COB LED failed in one unit after a number of years. I replaced the non-replaceable part at a cost of about £0.50 and it's still working years later.
sparkysy
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I've been fitting JCC LED floods for a couple of years with 1 failure, it was under a heavily leaking gutter to be fair!
Not from Citys I pay about half that!
Sy
Not from Citys I pay about half that!
Sy
jack-daniels
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Don't forget about colour temperature
"2000K-3000K: This temperature range produces a nice and cozy warm white light. It helps create a calming and intimate atmosphere, perfect for outdoor living rooms, outdoor kitchens, and decorative outdoor lighting.
3100K-4500K: This temperature range creates a gorgeous cool white light. This temperature range is bright and vibrant, helping to chase away shadows and give individuals a clear view of their surroundings. This is perfect lighting for areas surrounding stairs, sheds, or outdoor workshops because this color keeps the light focused and encourages individuals to stay alert and attentive.
4600-6500K: This temperature range imitates natural daylight/moonlight. It is crisp and clear, helping to bring attention to detail and drawing one’s eye to a central focus point. This is why this temperature range is used for security lighting, to light areas around a garage, or to help show off gorgeous water features such as a fountain or a pond."
I prefer a warm white on outside lights.
And also wattage, roughly 50 watt led to replace a 500 watt Halogen.
"2000K-3000K: This temperature range produces a nice and cozy warm white light. It helps create a calming and intimate atmosphere, perfect for outdoor living rooms, outdoor kitchens, and decorative outdoor lighting.
3100K-4500K: This temperature range creates a gorgeous cool white light. This temperature range is bright and vibrant, helping to chase away shadows and give individuals a clear view of their surroundings. This is perfect lighting for areas surrounding stairs, sheds, or outdoor workshops because this color keeps the light focused and encourages individuals to stay alert and attentive.
4600-6500K: This temperature range imitates natural daylight/moonlight. It is crisp and clear, helping to bring attention to detail and drawing one’s eye to a central focus point. This is why this temperature range is used for security lighting, to light areas around a garage, or to help show off gorgeous water features such as a fountain or a pond."
I prefer a warm white on outside lights.
And also wattage, roughly 50 watt led to replace a 500 watt Halogen.
Dave-sparks
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It makes no difference to part P whether it has a cable pre-fittes or not.
The pre-fittes cable prevents a lot of warranty claims for lights which have let in water when the installer damages the seals/puts too many cables in there etc etc.
brightspark
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better with the flex fitted. can be wired in to a pir jointbox or a photocell .something less to make off
Blobber
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If your not part P then you cant carry out any external works? with a pre-flexed flood a DIYer can scew the fitting to the wall, dill a hole through the wall, fit a 13a plug job done, if the DIYer has to start fitting flexes/cables to the fitting isnt that classed as external work?
brightspark
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none of it makes any odds if its your own property. if your pretty competent just get on with it.rewire your own house if you like .if u ever go to sell in a few years just get a periodic report done and test cert issued probably about 150 plus vat
LEDVANCE are really nice units, good warranty too. I have had a PIR one fail but it was replaced by the wholesaler with no issues. The electrical supplies place use stocks a lot of Ansell lighting but for floods they stock LEDVANCE even though Ansell do floods
sparkysy
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Part P is a scam unfortunately! It only applies to very specific areas of electrical installation work in domestic premises. Assuming the floodlight is already wired in an existing circuit anyone can change it, the same with any other existing accessory.
It only really applies to consumer unit changes and new circuits installed in increased risk locations e.g. kitchen, bathroom or garden or shed/garage.
If worst comes to worst either have an EICR done as @brightspark says or get an indemnity insurance for the electrics!
I've used the LEDVANCE before with no complaints, they seem a very robust fitting!
Sy
It only really applies to consumer unit changes and new circuits installed in increased risk locations e.g. kitchen, bathroom or garden or shed/garage.
If worst comes to worst either have an EICR done as @brightspark says or get an indemnity insurance for the electrics!
I've used the LEDVANCE before with no complaints, they seem a very robust fitting!
Sy
