- Thread starter Redsailor
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brightspark
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cant beat a bit of improvisation 
not doing the blade any favors by cutting dry though
not doing the blade any favors by cutting dry though9" grinder would be quicker
Morrisman
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I remember the scrap steel shop I used quite a lot in the Philippines, they'd get old hydraulic ram arms in, 2 or 3" diameter hard chromed carbon steel. One old fella would sit there all day with a hacksaw, cutting them into 12" lengths to sell. Poor old chap must have been 70 at least.
One day I suggested he drip some oil on his worn old blade, him and the other guys all laughed, until he tried it.
Next time I went in he was there, sawing away, no oil in sight. You can't teach them a thing, they always revert to the old ways.
One day I suggested he drip some oil on his worn old blade, him and the other guys all laughed, until he tried it.
Next time I went in he was there, sawing away, no oil in sight. You can't teach them a thing, they always revert to the old ways.
brightspark
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i use a dab of rocol on hacksaw blades and drill bits.cuts faster less friction makes blades last longer and less strain on electric motorsI remember the scrap steel shop I used quite a lot in the Philippines, they'd get old hydraulic ram arms in, 2 or 3" diameter hard chromed carbon steel. One old fella would sit there all day with a hacksaw, cutting them into 12" lengths to sell. Poor old chap must have been 70 at least.
One day I suggested he drip some oil on his worn old blade, him and the other guys all laughed, until he tried it.
Next time I went in he was there, sawing away, no oil in sight. You can't teach them a thing, they always revert to the old ways.
rtcosic
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If you lubricate the blade of a bandsaw how do you prevent the driving wheel slipping?
I tried a few drops of cutting oil on my newly acquired Lidl one and had to disassemble and clean it to get it to cut again!
I can understand using lubrication on a hacksaw or 'donkey' saw but a bandsaw??
I tried a few drops of cutting oil on my newly acquired Lidl one and had to disassemble and clean it to get it to cut again!
I can understand using lubrication on a hacksaw or 'donkey' saw but a bandsaw??
brightspark
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not a problem if they have steel wheels some of the cheap ones may suffer and not suitable
mike 109444
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Just to follow up on this post whilst reading the link I posted seen the below at post #17
"A word of caution if you are going to use AC power use AC Carbon Arc Rods, DC Rods will not function correctly on AC.
i found that out the hard way......
You can use the TCA in DC but you will need a large DC rod and a small DC rod, because the rods in DC do not get used up at the same rate.
For AC you can use the same size rods as they are consumed at the same rate.
i hope the info helps out!!
mike)"
"A word of caution if you are going to use AC power use AC Carbon Arc Rods, DC Rods will not function correctly on AC.
i found that out the hard way......
You can use the TCA in DC but you will need a large DC rod and a small DC rod, because the rods in DC do not get used up at the same rate.
For AC you can use the same size rods as they are consumed at the same rate.
i hope the info helps out!!
mike
)"
Windy Miller
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I did just the same on my 6” bandsaw. 1” thick and about 10” square. I cut halfway from either side…
rtcosic
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My little Lidl one has 'rubber' tyres on the wheels so that may explain it.not a problem if they have steel wheels some of the cheap ones may suffer and not suitable
Morrisman
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Yes, I've done it for years, but my knowledge and experience counted for nothing when I try to offer advice to some local native who probably never did more than five years at school.
I was once told to rub chalk into a file to reduce clogging. On aluminium I think. It made no difference.
The amount of times I've been drilling steel and someone will be watching and they say " why do you keep stopping and putting that oil on there it would be much quicker to go straight through" I always answer " because iam an idiot "Yes, I've done it for years, but my knowledge and experience counted for nothing when I try to offer advice to some local native who probably never did more than five years at school.
Dcal
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I bought a 6 inch bandsaw years ago.
It wouldn't cut straight and kept throwing blades.
After getting advice on here I stopped using any oil and cleaned up the rubber on the wheels and it hasn't missed a beat since.
Last blades I bought were M42s from "Mr Bandsaw" and they have lasted far longer that the M42s I used to buy from "Tuff Saw"
The difference is in the quality of the joint, the Tuff Saw ones always strip teeth from the joint, the Mr Band Saw ones wear out.
Both are able to cut rail track with ease.
I'm sure both flavours would last longer with oil, but since I can't use oil, I can live with the reduction in performance.
When I tried a tiny bit of paste cutting compound or a drop of oil it will eventually throw a blade and stuff it, so it's a false economy for me.
It wouldn't cut straight and kept throwing blades.
After getting advice on here I stopped using any oil and cleaned up the rubber on the wheels and it hasn't missed a beat since.
Last blades I bought were M42s from "Mr Bandsaw" and they have lasted far longer that the M42s I used to buy from "Tuff Saw"
The difference is in the quality of the joint, the Tuff Saw ones always strip teeth from the joint, the Mr Band Saw ones wear out.
Both are able to cut rail track with ease.
I'm sure both flavours would last longer with oil, but since I can't use oil, I can live with the reduction in performance.
When I tried a tiny bit of paste cutting compound or a drop of oil it will eventually throw a blade and stuff it, so it's a false economy for me.
I’m thinking about a small compressor and nozzle on the cut - to blow the swarf away and cool the blade?
My Startrite has one - called a chip blower I think. More for clearing the debris away than cooling.
Belt keeps coming off the pulley for it though so never gets used!
