Aluminium Corrosion and coating.

[Keithmac]

What's best course of action for aluminium engine bay parts and corrosion?.

I've got a load of aluminium engine parts that have powder corrosion on top.

Don't mind spending the time scotch-briting etc to remove it but what's best long term protection solution?.

I've seen paint fail a few years down the line on OEM parts so painting or laquering doesn't seem long term enough really.

I have a litre of ACF-50 but didn't really get on with it in testing.

Any other options?, something to spritz over the parts a few times a year, I'm not detailed by any means!.

 

[Brad93]

Cerakote or Anodising

 

[Wildefalcon]

Good question, I've a similar problem. Rocker covers. My plan is to media blast them and coat with 2k zinc phosphate, followed by epoxy mastic and a decorative coat. No idea if it will work.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Cerakote or Anodising

What's cerakote?

 

[Dcal]

What's cerakote?

Ceramic coating.
They also do a clear for alloy.

@. has done some lovely work using it.

BMW E30 325i nut and bolt restoration

Finished my first full diff rebuild for a customer and got some new tools for the job to ensure everything perfectly to spec

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[brightspark]

beadblasting

 

[Ross365]

Just to keep it at bay, and improve the appearance, I routinely use....WD40 . Don't care what anyone else says! For painting aluminium where the final appearance will tolerate brush stokes, I've been using Hammerite Speciality Metals Primer for ~30 years.

It's now the only thing I still use from Hammerite and it works very well, bonds very well even on to Al which has been badly corroded, but hard to get the brush strokes out (maybe something to do with being water-based). Seems happy to take a top coat of an Halford car aerosol.

 

[Dcal]

beadblasting

Bead blasting (and vapour blasting) works well because it close the surface but to last in a corrosive environment, you need to then seal with something and ceramic seems to be just about the best.

 

[bricol]

Using it - I stop using a car for a while and anything aluminium corrodes. For the 15 yrs of constant use before, no obvious aluminium corrosion. The damp from standing and never getting hot to drive it off caused white oxide all over.

 

[Kram]

For cleaning, a good dip in caustic will get it a nice uniform surface. Rinse off well. Remove everything else from the part before hand.

Anodising is great for small parts but very difficult on big stuff, also depends on the grade. Most cast alloys will not anodise nicely and instead turn to a black mess, same with some weld fillers. Generally anything small and machined is likely to anodise well.

 

[MetalMonkey]

For things like inlet manifolds, I've actually had quite good luck blasting them and just using a clear engine lacquer.

 

[Keithmac]

This looks interesting for the cleaning side, or maybe just snake oil?.

May end up ACF-50 afterwards for time being?.

Cerakote does look the Bees Knees mind.

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[redlig]

Just to keep it at bay, and improve the appearance, I routinely use....WD40 . Don't care what anyone else says! For painting aluminium where the final appearance will tolerate brush stokes, I've been using Hammerite Speciality Metals Primer for ~30 years.

It's now the only thing I still use from Hammerite and it works very well, bonds very well even on to Al which has been badly corroded, but hard to get the brush strokes out (maybe something to do with being water-based). Seems happy to take a top coat of an Halford car aerosol.

+1 for WD 40 A good squirt with the leaky hand sprayer. I can never understand why dealers don't do that to 2nd hand stock. Not exhibition standards but better than white snow effect. Not that most punters would notice .

 

[tom2207]

Surprised , I use ACF50 on alloy and have no bother with it at all ,,,

then again ,,, I do like the smell of ACF50 in the morning.

 

[brightspark]

bead blasting the parts will pein the surface and make smooth then use acf 50 every so often

 

[Keithmac]

What's best way to apply the acf, the spray bottle is a bit naff!.

Maybe a light brush coat?.

 

[Ross365]

I'm not familiar with ACF50, but when ever I have an aerosol can of WD40 which is out of gas, I make a hole in the side and pour it in to can. WD40 actually consists of 2 liquids which separate out on standing, which is why you need to shake it well before use. I often use a brush with the stuff in the can and paint that on to surfaces. Just as with paint, a brush delivers the equivalent of a lot of spray.

 

[moleb]

bead blasting the parts will pein the surface and make smooth then use acf 50 every so often

Yes, my preferred approach for alloy is a first blast with 30-60 garnet followed by a medium glass bead to seal the surface. All paints and coatings lift eventually in my experience. Not sure about ACF for me but WD goes on fork stanchions before winter and keeps the pits down.
Garnet + bead here still looks good 4 years later and multiple heat cycles:

 

[Keithmac]

Yes, my preferred approach for alloy is a first blast with 30-60 garnet followed by a medium glass bead to seal the surface. All paints and coatings lift eventually in my experience. Not sure about ACF for me but WD goes on fork stanchions before winter and keeps the pits down.
Garnet + bead here still looks good 4 years later and multiple heat cycles:

View attachment 378785

Looks a nice job!.

KR1-S?, worked in a fair few of those over the years.

 

[moleb]

Looks a nice job!.

KR1-S?, worked in a fair few of those over the years.

Yes, from a basket case I paid £500 for.