Garage / workshop conversion

[roofman]

I know its your reference so what would you suggest for the boundary seal on the boundary wall

cut into the felt both sides along the boundary and do a proper tar seal down the joints of both mainly to stop that run back and to seal both sides off from each other

When we do a shared double garage i always fully bond a 350mm strip directly onto the board down the party line, then set my loose layer right up to it on the working side...then 1st layer of 2mm bonded over the strip and 100mm on to next door, then the cap sheet of 4mm over again 100mm further so we have 200mm of staggered and fully bonded felt onto next door which totally stops any water from there side tracking over onto and under the customers new roof works.

 

[Spanthefestaman]

I popped into Wickes today after work. There boarding is actually a reasonable price but the insulation seems a little excessive. I'm waiting for a quote from my local builders merchants as the prices they show online are not what you pay as a cash account holder.

Caber floor feels really heavy so I think that is a no.
Osb was actually quite a good finish and a good price.
There plywood was a good price but the finish face was very thin and I've had it before that when you try and paint it it can bubble up.
I looked at facia upvc facia panelling but worked out really expensive and would need a decent frame to hold it up.

My compressor is only a little compressor a Tiger 8/40 I think. I rarely use it and I do keep an eye on it and drain it all the time. I fancied the idea of putting it in a cupboard so i could insulate around it to deaden the sound. I would leave space around it and give it air to cool it as well as checking it to make sure it wasn't overheating.

I am intending on using some insulation to block out next doors garage. The dividing wall is only singe brick. and most of there garage is boarded out.

 

[gaz1]

if you want to insulate the place out there is a cheap way to do it

but where you need strength for wall cupboards it would be best to swap back to 3x2s or 4x2s the rest can be done cheaply

soffit facia is held up by your 5x2s only the edges would need a latte at the ends as they would be screwed up to the ceiling

but price for price you best work it out what coverage in plyboard or osb board then paint on top vs sofit board and screws

this is per length different price in other areas

300mm Hollow Soffit Board - Plastics Hub

Buy 300mm Hollow Soffit from Plastics Hub at affordable prices. Hollow Soffit Boards are a more cost-effective solution to having a flat soffit board.

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remember its only there to hold up the insulation

 

[Spanthefestaman]

Thats quite a good idea. Works out cheap even if you buy the trim and is very light. Will have to go and have an accurate measure up tomorrow night.

I also like this although more expensive it would work out quite well;

9mm Flat Soffit Board - Plastics Hub

Find Anthracite Grey Fascia and Soffit at plasticshub.com. 9mm Flat Soffit Board is used in the exterior of the building, mainly residentially, and forms part of the roofline.

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I will look into this tomorrow if I get time.

 

[gaz1]

10 lengths is roughly 3m you need 2.7m so its 9 lengths less the slot in roughly

if your fitting an insulation wall your fine with 9 lengths + the last bit of the 7m as the lengths are 5m it would be 1 length cut into 2 as you need 9 of them another 5 lengths is needed

total 14 lengths

use plastic topped screws poly top nails are really annoying to nail upwards or you can use the white tek screws and remove the washer and rubber from them

 

[Wedg1e]

My garage-cum-workshop (30' x 9') had open joists when I moved in... the ends were open above the side walls as well so it was colder than a penguin's pendulum in there. Used to get birds in as well.
I just threw up plasterboard to cut the draughts/birds down, no insulation as I was a bit skint back then.
Probably just as well as the felted chipboard top has leaked a few times over the last 20 years. The unpainted plasterboard looks the worse for wear but it's still up there. At least if I ever replace it, it'll be cheaper than plywood.
About every 18 months I have to go up and monkey a bit more roofing felt on as the bitumen gives up the ghost, so unless/until I get the top sorted there's not much point fannying about making the inside look nice. Ideally I'd go for fibreglass over new boards but it looks expensive and no way am I letting any pikey 'contractors' look at the job. One for retirement, maybe

 

[Morrisman]

dont stick compressor in a cupboard either stick it outside or leave it open air flow around it

a cupboard is not a good thing with a compressor if it fails it will fling that cupboard all around the garage and they do fail

weve posted enough info with failed compressors on here even with just an open plan it can still cause alot of damage

Why do I have this visual of a cupboard leaping about the garage with a 'failed' compressor inside.

I can't even imagine what a 'failed' compressor would be doing.

 

[MetalMonkey]

Caber floor feels really heavy so I think that is a no.

Works really well for walls though - my workshop is done this way - handy as you can screw anything directly to the wall without worrying too much about studs, unless it is really heavy.

 

[Spanthefestaman]

I will measure up tonight and get a rough idea of pricing, it seems to work out much cheaper. I cant believe you can get a 5 metre length for £10.50. I can afford to get a thicker insulation at that kind of price.

I wont be doing the walls yet as much as I would love to. I simply dont have the budget or time. The house we brought is in a lovely village but was owned by an older couple and has had no money spent on it for ages so needs dormer insulating and ironical changing to upvc, maybe best to order some extra lengths haha.

Caber for walls is brilliant. My old workshop was mainly done like this, very strong easy to paint and like you say you can screw straight into it. OSB for walls not so good when painting cars as dust hangs very easily on the little bits so needs to get a really good clean.

Off to work will measure up later and compare prices

 

[prepman]

Why do I have this visual of a cupboard leaping about the garage with a 'failed' compressor inside.

I can't even imagine what a 'failed' compressor would be doing.

I've done a search on forum for 'failed compressors' without any catastrophic results?
I'm presuming it's receiver failure? Or a cylinder detachment?
DIY receivers aren't routinely inspected, like factory equivalents. Often have niggles about mine being pressure cycled from intermittent use.
Can someone elucidate?

 

[Newlands]

I've done a search on forum for 'failed compressors' without any catastrophic results?
I'm presuming it's receiver failure? Or a cylinder detachment?
DIY receivers aren't routinely inspected, like factory equivalents. Often have niggles about mine being pressure cycled from intermittent use.
Can someone elucidate?

I wonder about mine as well - it’s ex-school and used to be inspected annually by an insurance assessor, but of course that doesn’t happen now. I bought a cheap endoscope camera thing off eBay some time ago but it’s worse than useless, and definitely no use to look inside a receiver. I make sure I drain it after every use but that’s the extent of my maintenance.

 

[Dilkris]

I'm not really sure if this is the section for this or if there even is a section so please delete if not appropriate.

I have a larger than normal traditional single garage at my house. Its about 2.75m wide and 7.30m long. I have recently had the asbestos ceiling removed and now I'm aiming to replace it and start making the space into a workshop space for my tinkering.

My question is has anyone on here especially a builder done any fit out on there garage who knows the do's and don'ts? The garage is a single brick construction with a flat roof consisting of joists and planks with a felt top. It is also connected to the neighbours garage.

What I would like to do is replace the ceiling with plywood and possibly add a small amount of insulation whilst at the same time try to blank off the void where my ceiling goes into next doors ceiling. This is because I would like to do a little spraying from time to time, mainly small smart repairs and wheels

My thoughts are that the underside of the roof may need to breath so it doesn't get damp? Although saying this there are no vents in the facia's and there appears to be no breeze in the roof space. I was thinking to yacht varnish the top of the plywood to hopefully water proof it (in-case a leak starts to develop) and paint the workshop side white for reflecting the light.

So if anyone has any ideas or help that would be great. I am looking to use 9mm ply for the ceiling and a 40 or 50mm insulation but not sure what type at the moment.

Thank you in advance

Not too sure if this is allowed (Moderator please remove if not with my apologies) but www.Buildhub.org.uk has been recommended before on this forum and is building focused in all areas.

 

[gaz1]

Why do I have this visual of a cupboard leaping about the garage with a 'failed' compressor inside.

I can't even imagine what a 'failed' compressor would be doing.

I've done a search on forum for 'failed compressors' without any catastrophic results?
I'm presuming it's receiver failure? Or a cylinder detachment?
DIY receivers aren't routinely inspected, like factory equivalents. Often have niggles about mine being pressure cycled from intermittent use.
Can someone elucidate?

I wonder about mine as well - it’s ex-school and used to be inspected annually by an insurance assessor, but of course that doesn’t happen now. I bought a cheap endoscope camera thing off eBay some time ago but it’s worse than useless, and definitely no use to look inside a receiver. I make sure I drain it after every use but that’s the extent of my maintenance.

50 litre craftman air compressor

 

[prepman]

50 litre craftman air compressor

Might use my shufti scope in end of tank. Although maybe only 15yrs old...unlike Mr Pete's

 

[James1979]

I wonder about mine as well - it’s ex-school and used to be inspected annually by an insurance assessor, but of course that doesn’t happen now. I bought a cheap endoscope camera thing off eBay some time ago but it’s worse than useless, and definitely no use to look inside a receiver. I make sure I drain it after every use but that’s the extent of my maintenance.

Might use my shufti scope in end of tank. Although maybe only 15yrs old...unlike Mr Pete's

Just browsing the forum cos I is bored and found this thread. Seems to be well and truly drifted

Anyway. I thought I’d comment as my compressor had its annual inspection last week in the workshop. Tank was inspected via boroscope, and also some ultrasound thicknesser thingy.

Point of the post is that my PRV had seized and wouldn’t blow. He took it well over and it still didn’t pop. He fitted a new one and issued a cert.

I am not a compressor inspectionist, merely a bloke on the internet, but anecdotally from the inspector these are the usual cause of failure on test. May be worth testing them too?

 

[gaz1]

like i said there is a cheap way to insulate instead of buying 4x2s you can use plywood or osb

reference bed slatts

dont forget you only need 4 slatts per 4ft as there 8ft high

if you want something more to screw too use the wood i beam reference

the reference is used in beams with board screwed to them at the top whilst ionsulated between them in our case we use the felt at the rear of them

lets calculate the boards needed 3 boards cut into 4" at 8ft (240mm ) gives 9 x 4" slatts per board 27 slatts
2 boards cut at 4" at 4ft ( 120mm ) 34 slatts

so you have 9, 8ft x 4ft light weight insulation units as you need 4 slatts of each to make up one insulation frame unit

8fts allow you to fasten them to your beams

yes they are a bit of work but you will cover 27ft of insulated space cheaply work that out with 4x2s

plus breathable felt, insulation and a front board

 

[MetalMonkey]

like i said there is a cheap way to insulate instead of buying 4x2s you can use plywood or osb

Price of plywood is what, £65 a sheet, OSB is £40, plus a whole heap of effort.
You can get quite a bit of CLS studwork for that.

If only a lightweight "false ceiling" type framework is required to hold up some insulation, roofing battens might work out pretty cost effective - a lattice suspended from the existing rafters.

 

[Morrisman]

50 litre craftman air compressor

So really you don't want a compressor in the workshop, or anywhere near people in general, if you think it might explode?

 

[Morrisman]

Price of plywood is what, £65 a sheet, OSB is £40, plus a whole heap of effort.
You can get quite a bit of CLS studwork for that.

If only a lightweight "false ceiling" type framework is required to hold up some insulation, roofing battens might work out pretty cost effective - a lattice suspended from the existing rafters.

I bought a sheet of 18mm OSB from B&Q yesterday, £30

 

[Wedg1e]

A mate of mine does periodic tests on SCUBA cylinders, as part of which he ogles their internals using a borescope. Whether corroded or not, it's the hydraulic pressure test that more fail on - more than a small percentage of stretch and it gets a big hole drilled in it.
That's assuming the neck thread hasn't failed first.

I keep meaning to get an ultrasonic thickness gauge on my compressor; I know for a fact it hasn't been drained religiously and if the 100L receiver went pop I'd be needing a new car and probably a new garage as well (the compressor sits between the car and the single-leaf side wall).