Polishing(?) Stainless steel worktops

[bigegg]

I'm revamping my kitchen.
So I've bought half a dozen 2nd hand commercial kitchen prep tables with the plan of removing the frames, and just using the tops as worktops.

The ones I got have the odd scratch and paint.


plus a patch with some remnants of UV resin on. (it was my 3d printer bench).



I want to try and bring the entire worktops up to something resembling "clean" (if not new), but without obvious patches that have been "polished".

I have a polisher. An (12) angle grinder(s). A katsu "surface preparation tool" (uses 4" drums in various grades). Random orbit sander with up to ??? grit abrasive?


I'm also a complete newbie at surface "finishing".

Best/easiest way?
Doesn't have to be perfect, just "better"

 

[Onoff]

Try Barkeepers Friend powder.

 

[Shox Dr]

You need a tool and pad/wheel that creates straight grain. Not Circular.
80 grit will do it.
You've A LOT of work there fella.

@Paul. Has far more experience than myself

 

[bigegg]

You need a tool and pad/wheel that creates straight grain. Not Circular.
80 grit will do it.
You've A LOT of work there fella.

@Paul. Has far more experience than myself

The katsu drum polisher is probably my best bet then, out of the tools I have?

 

[brightspark]

what you looking at brushed finish or shiny polished finish good luck if polished

 

[Shox Dr]

The katsu drum polisher is probably my best bet then, out of the tools I have?
View attachment 375859

That will certainly do the job. If you clamp a batton to the top and use it as a guide it will keep your grain lines sraight

 

[bigegg]

what you looking at brushed finish or shiny polished finish good luck if polished

"Used" is ok.
I'd tolerate "not scrap".
"Lightly used" would be perfect

Beyond that, I'm not that bothered.
It's a working kitchen, not a show home

 

[Shox Dr]

"Used" is ok.
I'd tolerate "not scrap".
"Lightly used" would be perfect

Beyond that, I'm not that bothered.
It's a working kitchen, not a show home

It wont take long for the heads to loose their bite, so change them regularly, or the grain will look uneven

 

[Agroshield]

Katsu also seem to do brushing wheels for that machine:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KATSU-Burnishing-Polishing-Replacement-SP10009333/dp/B09P68K68Y

To me, the maroon scotchbrite on the one in the picture you show seems too fine (I think maroon is generally reckoned as 320 grit) for the initial pass and the 80 grit suggested above too coarse.

This looks like it gives good advice, particularly for options in hard-to-reach places:

How To Finish Stainless Steel: Types & Tips from the Pros

Finishing stainless steel can be a challenge, but following these steps and using the right products can help get an exceptional finish for a brilliant outward appearance.

www.abrasiveboss.com

 

[Shox Dr]

Katsu also seem to do brushing wheels for that machine:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KATSU-Burnishing-Polishing-Replacement-SP10009333/dp/B09P68K68Y

To me, the maroon scotchbrite on the one in the picture you show seems too fine (I think maroon is generally reckoned as 320 grit) for the initial pass and the 80 grit suggested above too coarse.

This looks like it gives good advice, particularly for options in hard-to-reach places:

How To Finish Stainless Steel: Types & Tips from the Pros

Finishing stainless steel can be a challenge, but following these steps and using the right products can help get an exceptional finish for a brilliant outward appearance.

www.abrasiveboss.com

Combined scotchbrite and emery are the type to use. 80 grit is what is generally used building commercial extraction systems. ie where the weld on corner has to be buffed out. Lost count how many hours Ive spent linishing them in.

 

[Turbo]

Is this for a semi commercial kitchen? I hope you are aware how hard s/s is to keep clean & shiny. My sister was a chef in a busy hotel & she would not have any s/s surfaces in a working kitchen, too hard to keep looking nice. A wipe with baby oil is the best way to protect it.

 

[mtt.tr]

Is this for a semi commercial kitchen? I hope you are aware how hard s/s is to keep clean & shiny. My sister was a chef in a busy hotel & she would not have any s/s surfaces in a working kitchen, too hard to keep looking nice. A wipe with baby oil is the best way to protect it.

Squeegee works really really well.

 

[bigegg]

Squeegee works really really well.

???
To apply baby oil?

I've found that a "magic sponge" and elbow grease has removed most of the marks

 

[MattF]

???
To apply baby oil?

I've found that a "magic sponge" and elbow grease has removed most of the marks

Actual elbow grease, or the stuff in a bottle?

 

[Hitch]

Use a copper scraper to remove any resin or paint residue...copper doesn't scratch stainless.

If the scratches are just superficial, the brown scotchbrite roller might well be enough, but if you can feel them with a fingernail, you'll need something more aggressive.
Flap wheel 'drums' are available, to go in tools like your katsu polisher there.
Depending on depth of the scratches, I'd be looking at a going over with an 80g if deep, then a 120g, then the scotchy drum, then a final hand scotchy. Remember to keep moving to avoid digging.
If you have knew mops/drums, knock the sharpness off the corner on a bit of scrap stainless or cleanish concrete.

Couple of things to look out for, heat input, if it's only thin...easy to blue thin sheet. Keep the grain straight as possible, and if you go through grits, always get an even finish and any previous polishing marks out before moving up a grit.

 

[Turbo]

Normal practice if going through grades of abrasive is to use each grade at 90 degrees to the last. That way you'll know when you remove the scratches from the previous coarser grade.

 

[Hitch]

Normal practice if going through grades of abrasive is to use each grade at 90 degrees to the last. That way you'll know when you remove the scratches from the previous coarser grade.

I wouldn't be doing that on grained sheet though.

 

[Turbo]

I wouldn't be doing that on grained sheet though.

Would it not be ok as long as you used the finest grade in the direction you want the graining?

 

[Hitch]

With a grain, the 120g will only have to take off the high spots left by the 80g... leaving a faint bit of the 'troughs' they almost become part of the 120g grain.

 

[bigegg]

Actual elbow grease, or the stuff in a bottle?

Hard work...