Trailer lashing points

[chrisg3103]

It has recently been brought to my attention that what I thought (and been using for about 7 years) were lashing points are in fact rope hooks

So bought some of these recessed type ones to fit to the inside

But is the big washer plate thing supposed to hang loose.

Or be welded the the trailer as a stiffener?

Not sure why the threads are so long either

 

[8ob]

Not sure why the threads are so long either

They only need to be long enough so when pulled up you can get a lashing or strap on them, I would run the nuts to the stop and trim off the excess.

Bob

 

[Agroshield]

...run the nuts to the stop and trim off the excess.

Looking at the lower picture, the threads seem to die out a good way before the shoulder, more so on the RH one. Would it need washers or something adding or the nuts will only be holding on by the nylon (they can't come off, but something does not seem correct).

Picture here of the standard method of installation (clever as they cope with loads less than the bed width and equal to the bed width):

BCP14600 SWL 3.0 T* Recessed TT Dropside Lashing Ring

{Description} Bloxwich Standard Patent Design: SWL 3.0 T Recessed TT Dropside Lashing Ring Supplied in: Zinc plated forged steel lashing ring and mild steel back plate. Complete with 2 x M10 zinc plated nyloc nuts. Use: Designed to fit into standard steel and aluminium V groove side raves. Can...

www.bloxwichdoorgear.com

 

[tom2207]

spring hanger bolts would work just as well ,,,

 

[500e]

Thought they were a no no know, will try and find what I was reading

 

[Pete.]

They only need to be long enough so when pulled up you can get a lashing or strap on them, I would run the nuts to the stop and trim off the excess.

Bob

So would I. Those horrid thread relief grooves look like a great stress riser waiting to snap off.

 

[chrisg3103]

Picture here of the standard method of installation (clever as they cope with loads less than the bed width and equal to the bed width):

BCP14600 SWL 3.0 T* Recessed TT Dropside Lashing Ring

{Description} Bloxwich Standard Patent Design: SWL 3.0 T Recessed TT Dropside Lashing Ring Supplied in: Zinc plated forged steel lashing ring and mild steel back plate. Complete with 2 x M10 zinc plated nyloc nuts. Use: Designed to fit into standard steel and aluminium V groove side raves. Can...

www.bloxwichdoorgear.com

Seems the plate is left dangling then, be a bit rattly..

 

[brightspark]

they look crap

 

[Onthespotwelding]

Not sure why the threads are so long either

Aren’t they for a HGV trailer?

I Would of thought domestic/ light commercial would be significantly smaller.

 

[Old Dog]

They're designed for the thick floors on HGV's and I would fix the bottom plate to the trailer. But to be honest most loading is now done with rachet straps on the side rave of the trailer. I think I would use the recessed "D" type lashing points for a smaller trailer.

 

[500e]

Know 2 drivers were stopped to check if all palet were strapped and hooks on raves

 

[colnerov]

Hi, Is it just me or are they upside down?

Colin

 

[maroon]

Hi, Is it just me or are they upside down?

Colin thaug

No they're definitely upside down. Nuts up top, bar and washer thing (although that pertrudes ) on the underside to hook a ratchet strap on. I would think

 

[W.olly]

I have used these for many years in a good few curtain side 3.5 tonners and flat decks. They came as is from the body manufacturers. They look fine as is but maybe tighten the nut up a little more, just s the got enough room to get the ratchet/tie around the top bar and cut off excess bolt if there is a lot. I found the quit good real;y . Oh and the plate is left loose on all vehicles i driven. I have ad as many as five down each side and rattle wasnt noticable.

Just remebered i fittid four more to there works van a few months back.

 

[8ob]

I think I can see what @chrisg3103 has done, he has drilled two holes in his floor and dropped the lashing gadget into them, that will be using the floor ply as the tensioning point., not a good idea. The type he has bought are made/designed to straddle a cross member or box section under the trailer deck and drop down flush when not in use.

Bob

 

[chrisg3103]

Just to clarify they are drilled through the outer frame of the trailer, 6mm angle iron with 2mm of plate on top from the side that are folded over I think. 8mm of steel and about 5mm of spreader plate would of been ok I thought? Only a 1500kg trailer, max payload is only 1120kg.
They don't drop below the floor like they probably should but not be in the way as they are in a dead space due to the shape of the sides, and are cranked so pop out enough to get a hook on


Nuts are loose in the picture by the way, they will be run up to the end

 

[fixedfixer]

Very slightly off topic, on my boat trailer I have some heavy duty D rings bolted to chassis. To these I attach ratchet straps with hooks. Am I doing right or should the strap be attached to the D ring in some other way? My little boat is only 300kg but I’m using 5 ton rated straps and D rings. Maybe that hook is a weak link?

 

[Mick Annick]

Very slightly off topic, on my boat trailer I have some heavy duty D rings bolted to chassis. To these I attach ratchet straps with hooks. Am I doing right or should the strap be attached to the D ring in some other way? My little boat is only 300kg but I’m using 5 ton rated straps and D rings. Maybe that hook is a weak link?

How heavy is the boat? Hooks through D rings should be fine, that’s all I’ve ever used at home and professionally.

 

[Old Dog]

Just to clarify they are drilled through the outer frame of the trailer, 6mm angle iron with 2mm of plate on top from the side that are folded over I think. 8mm of steel and about 5mm of spreader plate would of been ok I thought? Only a 1500kg trailer, max payload is only 1120kg.
They don't drop below the floor like they probably should but not be in the way as they are in a dead space due to the shape of the sides, and are cranked so pop out enough to get a hook on
View attachment 366325
View attachment 366326
Nuts are loose in the picture by the way, they will be run up to the end

No problem with that fitment but as you said I would tighten the nuts a bit. Those type fixings are also good for ropes if you can tie correct knots! I would at least fix the bottom plate to the frame with a pop rivet just to stop them rattling around and wearing through the threads.

 

[PhillipM]

I've seen those fitted with battery post springs before to sort that issue and stop them rattling.