Anvil

[Screwdriver]

That's mad, as long as you've got some decent edge and some flat face then an anvil is fine. My two are both 200+yrs old

It is tongue in cheek of course but as a confirmed hobbyist myself, good enough isn't what I'd be looking for. A decent anvil such as the one in the OP is ALWAYS going to cost a phenomenal amount to produce, just ask @pressbrake1 . Therefore if you want a good one, it is always going to be worth a lot of money and its real value will accurately track inflation like any non perishable commodity. Good as gold you might say.

Whether or not that is relevant to either the sale or purchase of an anvil for a specific task (i.e. to use for its intended purpose) is a moot point. An anvil shaped object may suffice, a beat up old used anvil is probably "better" value but for a minty looking proper old school anvil in that size range, you're competing with people (like me!) for whom an anvil is a desirable item for the authenticity it brings into your workshop.

I got "lucky" with mine but there is no way my limited skills "deserve" or even require such a magnificent item. Tell you what though, it is a constant source of pleasure to own one...

 

[hotponyshoes]

No offence but you'd be the last person I'd want to buy a used anvil from. My ideal owner would be "one lady owner" or a hobbyist who wouldn't know what to stick in his pritchel hole. Not a professional who is "passing it on" either a. to buy a better one or b. because this one is, in your own words, 2/3 ****ed!

No no no..
2/3 of it was fine!!

It was not one of my old ones anyway
The one I use daily was bought by me new 20+ years ago. It was conditioned properly and has been used properly.
If it wasn't for the couple of "emergency" jobs (nothing to do with my normal work) that have left a chip in one edge and a small cut from an angle grinder disk I would say that one is still 95% as good as new.
I'm pretty sure my elbows will be worn beyond usable before that anvil!

 

[Parm]

I’m gonna be a forumite and say I got one like that for 50 notes

Then I’ll have to be honest and say it’s gonna me strong money

 

[pressbrake1]

It is tongue in cheek of course but as a confirmed hobbyist myself, good enough isn't what I'd be looking for. A decent anvil such as the one in the OP is ALWAYS going to cost a phenomenal amount to produce, just ask @pressbrake1 . Therefore if you want a good one, it is always going to be worth a lot of money and its real value will accurately track inflation like any non perishable commodity. Good as gold you might say.

Whether or not that is relevant to either the sale or purchase of an anvil for a specific task (i.e. to use for its intended purpose) is a moot point. An anvil shaped object may suffice, a beat up old used anvil is probably "better" value but for a minty looking proper old school anvil in that size range, you're competing with people (like me!) for whom an anvil is a desirable item for the authenticity it brings into your workshop.

I got "lucky" with mine but there is no way my limited skills "deserve" or even require such a magnificent item. Tell you what though, it is a constant source of pleasure to own one...

With the price of tool steels totally unviable
The one I made last year would be three figures now

 

[Parm]

Last night I was watching you tube knife maki g

The anvil was a 6” diameter bar in the ground

I have 3 anvils, all very very well used, they were all free

I’m of the opinion that a brand new perfect specimen won’t improve my skill

 

[roofman]

My local scrap yard charges £200 for anvils big or small

 

[tom2207]

Its nice ,,, but the whole tv knife making thing seems to have driven prices to silly levels , Im guessing about 1100 quid , but would I pay that ,,, lol no way.

 

[Parm]

My local scrap yard charges £200 for anvils big or small

You should set up a sideline

I can provide you all the authenticity required.........

 

[roofman]

You should set up a sideline

I can provide you all the authenticity required.........

There was 2 large ones in the yard a week ago

 

[Parm]

There was 2 large ones in the yard a week ago

How many “authenticity” certs do you want ?

 

[roofman]

How many “authenticity” certs do you want ?

I will take 2 of them and 3 MOT,s please Parm...Normal payment arrangements, 2 large bags of green next to the park bench do you?

 

[Parm]

I will take 2 of them and 3 MOT,s please Parm...Normal payment arrangements, 2 large bags of green next to the park bench do you?

All good

Do you want paper or electronic mot?

What about tax?

 

[Barking Mat]

I'll take two MOT's too, as long as they look pass a visual.

Exchange against, well, whatever.

 

[Parm]

I'll take two MOT's too, as long as they look pass a visual.

Exchange against, well, whatever.

For you dear sir the exchange is gonna be expensive, then I have to arrange cross border manipulation

Top end stuff

 

[rtcosic]

... It was conditioned properly and has been used properly....

Can you educate an anvil ignoramus, please?

What does 'conditioning' an anvil mean?

I understand conditioning some things of organic origin*, but anvils look like large simple lumps of inorganic 'stuff' to me.

*Cast iron frying pans excepted!

Edit: Found this site and it goes some way to explaining what you meant, but it is behind a paywall.

Google keeps taking me to some Gym Bunny sites.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

There was 2 large ones in the yard a week ago

I found a large one in a scrap yard many moons ago. The owner said "if you can move it you can have it". Needless to say even three of us couldn't move it a mm

 

[Screwdriver]

What does 'conditioning' an anvil mean?

I noob like me is delighted to find an anvil with clean sharp edges, a blacksmith will probably knock those edges off with a grinder before going near it. It's a question of choice and a bone of contention but a lot of professional users will want to at least soften (some of) the edges to prevent chipping them off or putting hard lines into the workpiece.

 

[h-dom]

I noob like me is delighted to find an anvil with clean sharp edges, a blacksmith will probably knock those edges off with a grinder before going near it. It's a question of choice and a bone of contention but a lot of professional users will want to at least soften (some of) the edges to prevent chipping them off or putting hard lines into the workpiece.

In my limited experience, a crisp edge, although it looks nice creates harsh lines exactly as you describe, cold shuts etc whereas a soft edge can be used for all sorts, setting down, drawing out etc etc. if you need a sharper edge (as occasionally I do) then a hardy block is perfectly adequate.

In fact I use a chip on the edge of one of my anvils to help me draw taper to a point when making nails.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Well I bid up to £320 Inc fees, there was only one other bidder who got it for £330.

 

[julianthegypsy]

He got a bargain!