Fair comment,it’s very early,learning days,see how they progress.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I have six AC1 Hozelock water clock timers for using with all of our veg & flower gardens micro water misting as well as 18 mtrs of small potted up Bonsai trees belonging to both Alison & I. Every year they get taken off before the first frost arrives and stored with both C cell batteries removed & recycled .
Once mid April has passed it's time to put new batteries in them , give them a 24 running test and if all is OK put them on the water lines .
To put the batteries in entails removing a special sealing back panel that has four stainless screws to hold it on , between the bottom of the screw heads and the plastic body panel are neoprene sealing " O "ring of some 6 mm OD and 2.8 mm ID .
All to often these sealer " O" rings squeeze out the recessed screw hole in a loop as you tighten the last bit of the screw down or rip apart or get so compressed they tear apart when the screws are removed to take out the batteries .
On four or more occasions over the last 16years I'd found failed clocks had a fair bit of water in them that has caused the battery terminals to corrode through or flood into the electronic timer side, thus ruining the clock for ever because a spider or bug has crept in the electrical side making an egg cocoon in the drain hole or dying in the hole blocking it well & truly .
Eventually after months of searching , buying and testing I've found a better , thicker diameter of " O" rings , but the squidgeing out still happened .
I've turned down a 10 mm brass rod so it just fits the recessed screw hole , center bored it so you can just get one of the stainless screws in it and parted it off in 3 mm thick washers after grinding my parting knife so it is able to cut the washer off clean as well as putting a clean face on the remaining stub .
Now The " O " rings are much better seated and compressed beneath the screws. I've also finally also sealed up a clip over water resistant seam at the front of the timer too , because I'm not too keen of paying £ 26 or so a pop to replace the dead ones . This year will see if I've sorted it out .
Here are two pictur4es to accompany my description.
The big thicker " O " ring is the new replacement type & the fuzzy brass bit under the RH screw is the turned up brass washer .
Once mid April has passed it's time to put new batteries in them , give them a 24 running test and if all is OK put them on the water lines .
To put the batteries in entails removing a special sealing back panel that has four stainless screws to hold it on , between the bottom of the screw heads and the plastic body panel are neoprene sealing " O "ring of some 6 mm OD and 2.8 mm ID .
All to often these sealer " O" rings squeeze out the recessed screw hole in a loop as you tighten the last bit of the screw down or rip apart or get so compressed they tear apart when the screws are removed to take out the batteries .
On four or more occasions over the last 16years I'd found failed clocks had a fair bit of water in them that has caused the battery terminals to corrode through or flood into the electronic timer side, thus ruining the clock for ever because a spider or bug has crept in the electrical side making an egg cocoon in the drain hole or dying in the hole blocking it well & truly .
Eventually after months of searching , buying and testing I've found a better , thicker diameter of " O" rings , but the squidgeing out still happened .
I've turned down a 10 mm brass rod so it just fits the recessed screw hole , center bored it so you can just get one of the stainless screws in it and parted it off in 3 mm thick washers after grinding my parting knife so it is able to cut the washer off clean as well as putting a clean face on the remaining stub .
Now The " O " rings are much better seated and compressed beneath the screws. I've also finally also sealed up a clip over water resistant seam at the front of the timer too , because I'm not too keen of paying £ 26 or so a pop to replace the dead ones . This year will see if I've sorted it out .
Here are two pictur4es to accompany my description.
The big thicker " O " ring is the new replacement type & the fuzzy brass bit under the RH screw is the turned up brass washer .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Instead of building it like the forth bridge , could you purposely build in a weak spot by hinging it near to where it normally pivots and hold it in place by the hinge with a welded flange and low strength bolts going though the flange ?
Then when the arm gets too much pressure on it it should slide apart at the hinge rather than break / twist etc. A firmer grip between the arm & the flange could be easily obtained by slipping in a full sheet rubber gasket .
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,467
- Location
- New Zealand
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,957
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
A bit of heat maybe to straighten it out?
God mode restorations
Member
- Messages
- 8,149
- Location
- uk colchester
A part of the lorry I have got to make is a new set up for the tipper ram to body . This piece of box is totally shot and way to small in my opinion. It's got to come out and a replacement made. A painful job it's going to be
anto44
Member
- Messages
- 1,924
- Location
- ireland
A place I worked had a machine with this set up but the 3 m8 bolts kept shearing off so they drilled them out to m12 and promptly found out the price of the next weakest part of the machine.
Turns out a €700 bearing block was weaker than the m12 bolts.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I've had a conundrum to solve for several months before I got the replacement motor for my lathe .
Having given a bit of thought as to how I can use a precision 3/4 " length of drill rod to slide inside 3/4 ID precision sealed bearing as i'm getting too old and decrepit in body & mind to have to remember to fill up the phozzy bronze bearings Git oilers every time I want to fire up the lathe .
So I'm going to replace the precision 3/4 inch dia cross shaft worn ( getting hot ) phosphor bronze bearing on my ancient 1943 Sphere lathe with two pairs of precision 3/4 Id bearing a pair on each end of the cross shaft that fit into an outer steel mounting sleeve .
The problem is the new 3/4 precision drill rod is not an easy sliding fit inside the precision bearing . . To sort that out I decided to carefully turn a length of the drill rod between centers and take off 0.5 .... 1 to 1.5 thou depending on n which fitted easily .
The drill rod is only 14 inches long & feeds through the quill shaft to the chuck easily , I put an inch or so protruding through the the chuck and gently centre point drilled it at 750 rpm through a turned up end face. did the other end the same and then set things up to turn between centres . Both the pointed mandrill in the cross tube and the live center in the tail stock appear to have had plenty of " toe " room in the drill rod , no evidence of bottoming out or slip markings . The tailstock ram was under a bit of pressure to remove any play + 1/6 of a turn of the hand wheel .
It did not go well at 0.5 thou cut , as 3/4 of the drill rod was marked as cut/touched , there is a clean untouched 1/4 inch wide continuous strip way along the bar . Did the other end and it's much the same . What irks is that the difference between the cut and uncut rod where I've stopped cutting is barely detectable under the finger nail test .
I've tried to emery cloth & wet , wet & dry the area at 900 rpm . After half an hour on one end it's getting to an almost mirror polish but the sodding thing still won't easily slide into the 3/4" bearing as freely as I require for when I reassemble the lathe .
I suspect that the tail stock lateral along the ways alignment is out a less than a thou once the thing is tightened down . I can't detect it using a new quality roller bearing in a yolk held in the tool post & pressed up against the rod .
The tailstock it not an easy slide inside the ways , so am not sure how much more I can expand the gib to tailstock slide to take up any unwanted side ways movement .
Does any one know how I can get a better alignment .
If all fails I'm hoping that someone is on the site with a bigger lathe & precision chuck who will do a small job ( paying ) for me by taking off enough rod for four inches at each end so the bearing is a very fine sliding fit . Bearing & drill rod supplied as this center point drilling may not be the best solution using my own lathe .
Having given a bit of thought as to how I can use a precision 3/4 " length of drill rod to slide inside 3/4 ID precision sealed bearing as i'm getting too old and decrepit in body & mind to have to remember to fill up the phozzy bronze bearings Git oilers every time I want to fire up the lathe .
So I'm going to replace the precision 3/4 inch dia cross shaft worn ( getting hot ) phosphor bronze bearing on my ancient 1943 Sphere lathe with two pairs of precision 3/4 Id bearing a pair on each end of the cross shaft that fit into an outer steel mounting sleeve .
The problem is the new 3/4 precision drill rod is not an easy sliding fit inside the precision bearing . . To sort that out I decided to carefully turn a length of the drill rod between centers and take off 0.5 .... 1 to 1.5 thou depending on n which fitted easily .
The drill rod is only 14 inches long & feeds through the quill shaft to the chuck easily , I put an inch or so protruding through the the chuck and gently centre point drilled it at 750 rpm through a turned up end face. did the other end the same and then set things up to turn between centres . Both the pointed mandrill in the cross tube and the live center in the tail stock appear to have had plenty of " toe " room in the drill rod , no evidence of bottoming out or slip markings . The tailstock ram was under a bit of pressure to remove any play + 1/6 of a turn of the hand wheel .
It did not go well at 0.5 thou cut , as 3/4 of the drill rod was marked as cut/touched , there is a clean untouched 1/4 inch wide continuous strip way along the bar . Did the other end and it's much the same . What irks is that the difference between the cut and uncut rod where I've stopped cutting is barely detectable under the finger nail test .
I've tried to emery cloth & wet , wet & dry the area at 900 rpm . After half an hour on one end it's getting to an almost mirror polish but the sodding thing still won't easily slide into the 3/4" bearing as freely as I require for when I reassemble the lathe .
I suspect that the tail stock lateral along the ways alignment is out a less than a thou once the thing is tightened down . I can't detect it using a new quality roller bearing in a yolk held in the tool post & pressed up against the rod .
The tailstock it not an easy slide inside the ways , so am not sure how much more I can expand the gib to tailstock slide to take up any unwanted side ways movement .
Does any one know how I can get a better alignment .
If all fails I'm hoping that someone is on the site with a bigger lathe & precision chuck who will do a small job ( paying ) for me by taking off enough rod for four inches at each end so the bearing is a very fine sliding fit . Bearing & drill rod supplied as this center point drilling may not be the best solution using my own lathe .
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,467
- Location
- New Zealand
More on the KFC painting ftame
I was about to say take a shot everytime you read precision but most would die of alcohol poisoning to quickly
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Leading by example is a very worthwhile thing to do ... In 1969 aged 9 I could not read or write & was totally perplexed by sums .
In Easter 1970 our new head master who arrived at our school had an old Mayflower as well as a big Vauxhall Cresta.
Well before the summer he'd shown us on nth old mayflower how the brakes worked & incorporated the hydraulic side into our maths & general science . Just before the summer holidays he'd run though the suck , squeeze , bang , fart theory and was showing us how to set the tappets . Several of us kids set them after he'd turned the engine over to the right position with engine cold plugs out as well as with th engine running later in the week . After the summer holidays he took us into the camshaft & valve timing and paired cylinder method of locating fully closed valves . Is is any wonder I migrated to Denis Scott the local garage owner & former RAF Lancaster bomber engines man in the village & learning like a dry sponge in a bowl of water whilst keeping the place tidy for the next three years till we moved with dads job . 18 months later I joined REME as a trainee radar technician .
prepman
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,762
- Location
- Gwynedd UK
Only 62 now...so just a sprog.
dyno-tron
Member
- Messages
- 507
- Location
- Near Chester, UK
The cutaway engine is the final piece of the “project” (I should have started a dedicated thread for it).
The engine is difficult to dismantle/reassemble without a press & oven so not very classroom friendly. The children aren’t learning how to do a rebuild, they are being coaxed into spanner’s, hand tools etc with a real thing to work on and take apart. So “can you do something to the engines to allow dismantle/reassemble with basic hand tools?” was the question.
Multiple boxes of scrap engines were handed over.
Crank journals machined on lathe, engine casings milled, pistons reamed, everything vapoblasted then reassembled with new bolts.
Some time later eight complete engines were made classroom ready.
The engine is difficult to dismantle/reassemble without a press & oven so not very classroom friendly. The children aren’t learning how to do a rebuild, they are being coaxed into spanner’s, hand tools etc with a real thing to work on and take apart. So “can you do something to the engines to allow dismantle/reassemble with basic hand tools?” was the question.
Multiple boxes of scrap engines were handed over.
Crank journals machined on lathe, engine casings milled, pistons reamed, everything vapoblasted then reassembled with new bolts.
Some time later eight complete engines were made classroom ready.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,491
- Location
- Manchester UK
Wood bothering today. Set to and made the gap between the garage and the shed useful, nit of "decking" a door and it involved welding as I had to make a staple for the hasp:
I couldn't believe the cost of the timber A Hundred and fifty quid! Nearly fainted.
I couldn't believe the cost of the timber A Hundred and fifty quid! Nearly fainted.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,775
- Location
- UK
I finished off putting the sliders in the base for the new drawers. I still need to make 5 more bins. But this meant I could put the drawer carcasses in position. They are screwed to the partion behind which is bolted to a hefty bench on the other side.
I just needed to put all the drawers back.
Done
Loads of sorting and labelling to do now.
I just needed to put all the drawers back.
Done
Loads of sorting and labelling to do now.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,568
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
My old shooting board was the first one I ever made and, while it worked well for a while, it has been used a lot and is starting to show issues. The fence isn't very secure and I don't think there's much I can do about it given that it's made out of MDF.
I've put up with it for a while, but I decided to have a go at making something better. I've always struggled a bit with having my right hand pushing the plane down, left and forward while having my left hand nudging the work piece gradually to the right. I often found I was letting the plane shift out to the right and away from the workpiece, which could result in a non-square edge.
This morning's effort was an attempt to fix that problem as well as adding a more easily adjustable fence:
Side view:
The fence is a gert big lump of oak with some 8 mm holes drilled through and chamfers on the bottom corner and the corner where the plane exits. There are M6 × 25 threaded inserts in the base: the M6 screws are loose in the 8 mm holes to allow for some adjustment.
This bit is what I think is the most unusual thing on my shooting board:
The top piece of plywood has a rebate cut in its underside and there's a support on the right of the track (again adjustable, this time with M5 screws). Four surfaces are covered in UHMW-PE tape (which is very slippery): the base surface, the side of the right-hand side support and both faces that make up the rebate. One end of the side support thing is slightly chamfered for ease of access.
These 3D printed inserts are a fairly snug but free running fit in that slot:
The inserts are a close fit on the side of the planes and, in combination with the side support, stop the plane from trying to move to the right while shooting.
I've only tried it once (on a 150 mm wide bit of beech), but it worked beautifully so far (much better than the old shooting board).
I need to decide how I'm going to add box- and frame- mitre attachments to it, but for now I'm very pleased with how it has turned out (especially given it only took a few hours to make, excluding 3D printing time).
I've put up with it for a while, but I decided to have a go at making something better. I've always struggled a bit with having my right hand pushing the plane down, left and forward while having my left hand nudging the work piece gradually to the right. I often found I was letting the plane shift out to the right and away from the workpiece, which could result in a non-square edge.
This morning's effort was an attempt to fix that problem as well as adding a more easily adjustable fence:
Side view:
The fence is a gert big lump of oak with some 8 mm holes drilled through and chamfers on the bottom corner and the corner where the plane exits. There are M6 × 25 threaded inserts in the base: the M6 screws are loose in the 8 mm holes to allow for some adjustment.
This bit is what I think is the most unusual thing on my shooting board:
The top piece of plywood has a rebate cut in its underside and there's a support on the right of the track (again adjustable, this time with M5 screws). Four surfaces are covered in UHMW-PE tape (which is very slippery): the base surface, the side of the right-hand side support and both faces that make up the rebate. One end of the side support thing is slightly chamfered for ease of access.
These 3D printed inserts are a fairly snug but free running fit in that slot:
The inserts are a close fit on the side of the planes and, in combination with the side support, stop the plane from trying to move to the right while shooting.
I've only tried it once (on a 150 mm wide bit of beech), but it worked beautifully so far (much better than the old shooting board).
I need to decide how I'm going to add box- and frame- mitre attachments to it, but for now I'm very pleased with how it has turned out (especially given it only took a few hours to make, excluding 3D printing time).
