Another Harrison M250

[George Erasmus]

A few years ago I bought a Myford ML10 specifically to make spacers for my motorcycle but it wasn't long before I wanted to try and make additional components but my little lathe was just not big enough.
I have been staring at the short bed M300 but I just did not have the space so I have to look for a short bed M250 these tend to go for a pretty penny smallish lathe that packs a punch
This item popped up on Fleebay and I knew that I had to act quickly so I made a silly offer which the seller countered which was in my budget considering I would probably have to have it transported.
Checked a few teams offering transport and Steve from Landylift came up with the best quote. Paid the seller and waited almost two weeks for Steve to pick it up and deliver. The seller said the lathe was fully functional when they turned it on to test as it stood for a few years. But whilst Steve was offloading I noticed that there is a cable inside the steel copex that was badly damaged and the copex was torn open badly so guess it was when they loaded it any way that means I will have to dig into the wiring, to fix it.

 

[George Erasmus]

I did consider moving the workbench down 200mm to fit the short bed M300 but considered it a bit futile as it will look a bit odd hence going for the short bed M250

Butt resistance is futile

When the rear cover is on it stops the garage door closings, so the table has to move, a job for another day, right now a bigger shuffle is waiting I need to make space for my workbench or dump it, a tough decision as it is a nice heavy bench time to do do some thinking and planning.

 

[George Erasmus]

Today some cleaning and checking things out in the cabinet I found a few things that I did not recognise and could not figure out what it would be used for.
Also, the saddle looked a bit odd it is a bit gunky so, I had no clue what it was but after looking at the lathe accessories I realized that it was a Taper turning Attachment
A really good guide on how to assemble it here Chris compiled a pdf guide https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=126631 you can download it

But ut is missing a few parts

Fully assembled it looks like this I did find a taper project in one of the drawers so it must have been complete at some point

I hope 600 group will have part 312.023 unless someone has the part and can share some pictures and measurements it does not look too difficult to make and I will have to make a list of parts so that I can remove the attachment

 

[Agroshield]

Is it an up-and-over door? Is it the door itself that hits or part of the mechanism? Consider moving the door to the outer face of the brickwork, replacing with a roller shutter type, re-engineering the mechanism, or an Impreza bonnet bulge in the door itself. If the machine was lower to the ground, would that help? Maybe re-engineer the castors to achieve that or remove altogether if it does not need to be mobile.

The clamping mechanism on the TT attachment you show is slightly different to your own. Yours is split for a pinch bolt. The other photo has a screw (hopefully with brass pad) bearing on the rod itself.

 

[George Erasmus]

Is it an up-and-over door? Is it the door itself that hits or part of the mechanism? Consider moving the door to the outer face of the brickwork, replacing with a roller shutter type, re-engineering the mechanism, or an Impreza bonnet bulge in the door itself. If the machine was lower to the ground, would that help? Maybe re-engineer the castors to achieve that or remove altogether if it does not need to be mobile.

The clamping mechanism on the TT attachment you show is slightly different to your own. Yours is split for a pinch bolt. The other photo has a screw (hopefully with brass pad) bearing on the rod itself.

It is an up and over door
Moving the frame forward is not an option it is already pretty close to the front edge so this may compromise brickwork
I have considered the Roller door but that is reserved for Ladders and steps and weed eater

It is a bit loaded in there Sacrifices will have to be made

 

[Seadog]

A bench will have to go. You still need to make room for the milling machine

 

[addjunkie]

There is a very simple solution……

Move to a house with a shed/ garage large enough for your needs. All you needin a house is a kitchenand bedroom, the rest is wasted space.

 

[George Erasmus]

I also have accessory 911/45 but it is missing D220H0001 anyone have a picture of one fitted I can't work out at the moment how this is meant to be fitted
I am considering converting it into a 911/48 if anyone has any details on parts 911033 and 911035

 

[addjunkie]

600 group are helpful and may give you drawings if they can supply the parts

 

[George Erasmus]

A bench will have to go. You still need to make room for the milling machine

There is a small mill but I have considered Aciera F4, Shaublin 13, Harrison 600, or a Boxford VM30

There is a very simple solution……

Move to a house with a shed/ garage large enough for your needs. All you needin a house is a kitchenand bedroom, the rest is wasted space.

Not an option No one will give me a new mortgage at my age I struggled to get a remortgage a couple of years ago

 

[George Erasmus]

On a further note, I have considered the options and think I will replace the motor with a single-phase motor £162 falls in the same bracket as a Quality Inverter

Pardon our interruption...

They do a Single Phase 4 pole with B3 Foot and D80 Frame 1500 RPM 19mm shaft just need to make sure it is a reversible motor the suds pump I will look at later

 

[Agroshield]

Personally, I would never replace a working three phase motor with a single phase one. I would always spend money on the inverter as it offers so much more functionality. One very useful feature of a VFD is to run at less than 50Hz., giving you a really slow bottom speed. That can be useful for spring winding and spiral fluting (with a toolpost-mounted spindle).

The accessory is a 5-position cross-slide stop. It goes at the rear of the saddle. DB31H3001 bolts to the cross slide and the rod through it is the coarse position-setting. 911045 on the back of the saddle. Teh red arrow you have drawn is on top of the rear way of the lathe, on the tailstock side of the saddle.

The D220 part does seem mysterious but it is not needed for the stop to work. Wild guess here: it threads into the back of the saddle and acts as a bumper to prevent the tailstock crashing into the stop.

The only possible difference between part numbers 911035 and D120H1014 is the length of the threaded portion. They go into the same part, the five-station block so the counterbore and unthreaded shoulder have to be the same. The D120 reference looks like a standard part number (i.e. off the shelf or common to more than one model), so you might find it in an M300 manual.

911 033 should be easy to make: the saddle is drilled and threaded for the two capscrews that go into the counterbores so you have those dimensions. The five dimples for indexing need to match 911045 that you already have. The female thread will need to match the existing shoulder bolt that you already have.

Edit: you can see the stop fitted to the green machine here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/bantam/page3.html

 

[Seadog]

a 3-phase motor is mechanically a lot smoother too.

 

[Eric the chicken]

There is a very simple solution……

Move to a house with a shed/ garage large enough for your needs. All you needin a house is a kitchenand bedroom, the rest is wasted space.

Doesn't work, you just get more stuff to fill the available space

 

[indy4x]

I have the taper turning bits for an M300, same design, not sure if the bar is the same dimensions as the M250 though

Can do a drawing later with some dimensions

 

[George Erasmus]

Personally, I would never replace a working three phase motor with a single phase one. I would always spend money on the inverter as it offers so much more functionality. One very useful feature of a VFD is to run at less than 50Hz., giving you a really slow bottom speed. That can be useful for spring winding and spiral fluting (with a toolpost-mounted spindle).

The accessory is a 5-position cross-slide stop. It goes at the rear of the saddle. DB31H3001 bolts to the cross slide and the rod through it is the coarse position-setting. 911045 on the back of the saddle. Teh red arrow you have drawn is on top of the rear way of the lathe, on the tailstock side of the saddle.

The D220 part does seem mysterious but it is not needed for the stop to work. Wild guess here: it threads into the back of the saddle and acts as a bumper to prevent the tailstock crashing into the stop.

The only possible difference between part numbers 911035 and D120H1014 is the length of the threaded portion. They go into the same part, the five-station block so the counterbore and unthreaded shoulder have to be the same. The D120 reference looks like a standard part number (i.e. off the shelf or common to more than one model), so you might find it in an M300 manual.

911 033 should be easy to make: the saddle is drilled and threaded for the two capscrews that go into the counterbores so you have those dimensions. The five dimples for indexing need to match 911045 that you already have. The female thread will need to match the existing shoulder bolt that you already have.

Edit: you can see the stop fitted to the green machine here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/bantam/page3.html

Thanks that really helped a lot

 

[George Erasmus]

I have the taper turning bits for an M300, same design, not sure if the bar is the same dimensions as the M250 though

Can do a drawing later with some dimensions

Thanks, I was going to get some round cold-rolled steel it is the length that interests me and any more details you can share

 

[RichardM]

I replaced my up and over with hinged doors. If you "flip" your layout to the other side will the garage door clear the tailstock when it closes? You may / will have to reduce bench height to allow access to change gears.

 

[George Erasmus]

a 3-phase motor is mechanically a lot smoother too.

Personally, I would never replace a working three phase motor with a single phase one. I would always spend money on the inverter as it offers so much more functionality. One very useful feature of a VFD is to run at less than 50Hz., giving you a really slow bottom speed. That can be useful for spring winding and spiral fluting (with a toolpost-mounted spindle).

I realize that the 3pase motor is more flexible but thought it was easier to deal with single-phase motors but what you say makes sense I am going to have a word with Newton Tesla and go from there.

 

[Milkybars]

@indy4x are these M300 parts surplus ?