Bl**dy chaisaws

[sako243]

With my strimmer I've found it's far easier to tip out the fuel and run the car dry when left for long periods.

Trying out Aspen 2 in the new 562XP, more expensive but as it'll get infrequent use if it doesn't cause major issues then might be worth it. Although I miss the smell of the 2 stroke...

 

[Migmac]

Some good answers and thoughts - thanks. I managed to find an hour today to strip and clean the walbro carb on the screwfix (mountfield actually) saw. Had to make a tool to remove the mixture screws. It started an I got it running quite well. Need to sharpen it so I can get some load on it to set the high range mixture. Maybe then it will be ok...
The Stihl I've left for another day.

You don’t need to be cutting anything whilst setting the carbs up

 

[James1979]

You don’t need to be cutting anything whilst setting the carbs up

+1

That’s about the worst thing to do. Normal chain tension is fine.

 

[pedrobedro]

You don’t need to be cutting anything whilst setting the carbs up

You need it to stop 4 stroking when it's in the cut under load.

 

[minimutly]

+1

That’s about the worst thing to do. Normal chain tension is fine.

You need it to stop 4 stroking when it's in the cut under load.

Now, does this mean open throttle no load to set the high end mix is fine or not? My simple mind tells me to load it up to at least try it is best?
What's all this 4 stroking stuff - surely at big throttle openings it will be a 2 stroke?
Explain please?

 

[premmington]

I’ll third how good Silky saws are. Mine get used fairly often, brashing, felling trees and cutting up windblow. They stay sharp for ages.

First time I used a Silky saw - it dawned on me what a well designed thing they are.

Narrow blade - teeth that cut on the pull stroke - hooks either end of the blade to stop them coming out the cut.

2" 3" limbs are a doddle when you get the hang of it.

I do regret the purchase at all - I am on the second blade in mine - I have used it that much...

 

[8ob]

Silky saws need treating with the same caution as a chainsaw, I have seen some nasty cuts from Silky’s, if not in use leave them in the sheath.

Bob

 

[northwest]

My neighbour asked me to look at a chain saw he bought in an auction, which looks almost new, to see if I could get it started – he has never tried.

Fresh Petrol mix in.
Couple of pulls then switched it on as it was trying to start. First pull looked like it was going to go. Second pull ripped the starter cord out of my hand and the handle bounced down my left arm smacking my thumb dead centre – ouch. Foot on bottom of handle, left hand holding bar brake and front handle, right hand pulling starter rope, as per the manual.

Sooo, I need suggestions why it might have back-fired like a 4 stroke? Never had that before.

 

[8ob]

Sooo, I need suggestions why it might have back-fired like a 4 stroke? Never had that before.

Depends on the saw.You can drop start most small saws,the bigger ones tend to need a bit more commitment and are best started on the floor. Get a really firm grip on pull handle, gently engage starter pawls, take it just over tdc and go for it. Watching lads snatch starting saws makes me cringe.

Bob

 

[ukracer]

Another vote for Aspen can be left months and stihl (lol) starts every time

Where can you buy it from?

 

[pedrobedro]

Depends on the saw. You can drop start most small saws, the bigger ones tend to need a bit more commitment and are best started on the floor. Get a really firm grip on pull handle, gently engage starter pawls, take it just over tdc and go for it. Watching lads snatch starting saws makes me cringe.

Bob

I start any saw on the floor from cold no matter how small

What's all this 4 stroking stuff - surely at big throttle openings it will be a 2 stroke?

Open the H screw up to enrich the mixture and you will hear the saw go flat at high revs like trying to run on part choke, screw it back in and the saw will scream but if you leave it in and run it weak you will seize the saw. Turn the screw out till it flattens off then cut wood and it will pull and stop sounding flat. Really you need a rev counter on it to see what it's running at but for firewood you shouldn't be too worried about it. As long as you are not running it weak you should be ok.

 

[pcwizme]

Where can you buy it from?

Most smaller outdoor equipment shops will sell it, my local mower repair stores sell it

 

[Migmac]

First time I used a Silky saw - it dawned on me what a well designed thing they are.

Narrow blade - teeth that cut on the pull stroke - hooks either end of the blade to stop them coming out the cut.

2" 3" limbs are a doddle when you get the hang of it.

I do regret the purchase at all - I am on the second blade in mine - I have used it that much...

I’m on my second blade too. There’s a picture on here of windblow I’ve cut up with my Silky

 

[minimutly]

I start any saw on the floor from cold no matter how small


Open the H screw up to enrich the mixture and you will hear the saw go flat at high revs like trying to run on part choke, screw it back in and the saw will scream but if you leave it in and run it weak you will seize the saw. Turn the screw out till it flattens off then cut wood and it will pull and stop sounding flat. Really you need a rev counter on it to see what it's running at but for firewood you shouldn't be too worried about it. As long as you are not running it weak you should be ok.

Thanks!

 

[Migmac]

When you do a saw users course. Yo yo starting is a big no no. On the floor for cold starts, between the knees is allowed for warm starts. Anyone who is unsure with saws, start it on the floor, easier and safer.

 

[Lazurus]

Where can you buy it from?

Most Arb stores or agricultural dealers or look on Aspen web site for local dealers to you

 

[pedrobedro]

I've run my saws on Aspen2 for a few years now and it was a 20 mile round trip to get it but now the garden repair shop here has started stocking it.

 

[northwest]

In Manchester I get it from these guys: http://www.ctmpro.com/