crimp or solder?

[smashweld]

looking for some advice...

need to lengthen the 24v input cables on this split charger... https://simplysplitcharge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=673

2 options I can see is 2 of these with a short bolt? (already have these...albeit without the proper crimp tool) to connect the 2

Copper Tube Terminals

Copper Tube Terminals

www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

or butt connectors https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.c...ectors/p-560-butt-connector-crimp-solder-type, or https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-97-terminals-connectors/p-561-butt-connector-screw-type

what would be the best/recommended method?

 

[James1979]

Can you take the back off and fit longer cables to the board? No join that way for water etc to get inside

 

[prepman]

looking for some advice...

need to lengthen the 24v input cables on this split charger... https://simplysplitcharge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=673

2 options I can see is 2 of these with a short bolt? (already have these...albeit without the proper crimp tool) to connect the 2

Copper Tube Terminals

Copper Tube Terminals

www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

or butt connectors https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.c...ectors/p-560-butt-connector-crimp-solder-type, or https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-97-terminals-connectors/p-561-butt-connector-screw-type

what would be the best/recommended method?

Solder and adhesive heatshrink is what I'd use and do. On my tractor solar setup.

 

[ChrisBailey]

If your cable is thick, you will struggle trying to solder it. Youd need a blow torch to get enough heat in which would wreck the insulation and the solder would wick far uo the cable making it nolonger flexible.
I would go with copper butt splice connectors. The cheap hydraulic crimping tools (20 squid) do a good job. Put some adhesive heat shrink on it too, no problems with water ingress then.

 

[prepman]

If your cable is thick, you will struggle trying to solder it. Youd need a blow torch to get enough heat in which would wreck the insulation and the solder would wick far uo the cable making it nolonger flexible.
I would go with copper butt splice connectors. The cheap hydraulic crimping tools (20 squid) do a good job. Put some adhesive heat shrink on it too, no problems with water ingress then.

It depends on how big the soldering iron is and how long you flow the solder. Crimps aren't flexible either.
My irons range from micro for pcb to big for tin plate work. Easy to improvise by tinning up a chunk of copper or brass and heating with torch. I do have hydraulic crimper (bought for yacht rigging), but as this is a charger and not an invertor, I would imagine cable is fairly light. I could be wrong, often am.

 

[m_c]

looking for some advice...

need to lengthen the 24v input cables on this split charger... https://simplysplitcharge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=673

I'm hoping that's just a typo, as that's a 12V in 24V out charger.

Regardless, even the input will only be a bit above 20A (possibly 25A) for a 10A output.
Both cable sizes are well within the realms of a standard crimp.

I'd just use heatshrink butt connectors.

 

[Robotstar5]

I'd use this type of butt connector, choose the colour to suit cable size (CSA)

 

[prepman]

I'd use this type of butt connector, choose the colour to suit cable size (CSA)

So so far he hasn't mention the cross section of cables. I've used thousand of crimps over the years in industrial panels and miles of screened cables. Not an exageration. All the styles there are, insulate, non-insulated, shrink etc. But when it's for myself I would run solder in afterwards on end terminations. In-line insulated it isn't possible. If it's possible to solder it's best method bar none (except fusion). If not then crimps are a compromise. As by line...Tap-ins are only good in extremely dry conditions.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

It depends on how big the soldering iron is and how long you flow the solder. Crimps aren't flexible either.
My irons range from micro for pcb to big for tin plate work. Easy to improvise by tinning up a chunk of copper or brass and heating with torch. I do have hydraulic crimper (bought for yacht rigging), but as this is a charger and not an invertor, I would imagine cable is fairly light. I could be wrong, often am.

I've got an ex electricity board soldering iron - it is massive and tackles starter / welding cable without any problems

 

[DAPPH]

For several things on my caravan & in the mancupboard I've used the heavy duty only fit one way push on pull off wiped terminal blocks so I can insert different things in the wiring . You can get water poof ones from a chandlers or such place.

Fanuse 4 Pcs 6-8 Gauge 50A Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect, Jumper Cable Plug Connector Kit for Towing Systems(Red): Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Fanuse 4 Pcs 6-8 Gauge 50A Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect, Jumper Cable Plug Connector Kit for Towing Systems(Red): Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

www.amazon.co.uk

I used an old 24 ounce copper blow lamp soldering iron to solder the wires in the pins to make up two 6 mtr in between extensions so I can pump up the tyres on the caravan whilst it's still connected to our big Turisimo The back of the cable entries have been filled up with Araldite resin to ensure there won't be any shorts .

 

[premmington]

Solder joins and crimp end terminals.

 

[Hood]

For battery cables on boats I have found crimping to be much better than soldering. Also when extending the battery cables on outboards I crimp on tube terminals and bolt together and the whole lot is covered with glue filled heatshrink. Never had one fail yet but used to get the soldered ones failing occasionally. Having said that a fishing boat is quite a harsh environment for such things, salt water and plenty of movement/vibration etc.

 

[smashweld]

Thanks all...the cable for the 24v side is 8AWG, would 8mm2 cable and butt connectors be the equivalent?

Also want to shorten the 12v cable, it is 10AWG, is 6mm2 the equivalent for that?

I'm hoping that's just a typo, as that's a 12V in 24V out charger.

Regardless, even the input will only be a bit above 20A (possibly 25A) for a 10A output.
Both cable sizes are well within the realms of a standard crimp.

I'd just use heatshrink butt connectors.

Oops, I've linked to the wrong model...mines is def 24 in 12 out

Yellow butt connectors are ok for the smaller 12v cables but too small for the 24v

 

[Hood]

According to Google.

 

[smashweld]

Yeah I've had a few different results trying to Google awg to mm2 sizes!

 

[prepman]

For battery cables on boats I have found crimping to be much better than soldering. Also when extending the battery cables on outboards I crimp on tube terminals and bolt together and the whole lot is covered with glue filled heatshrink. Never had one fail yet but used to get the soldered ones failing occasionally. Having said that a fishing boat is quite a harsh environment for such things, salt water and plenty of movement/vibration etc.

In my boat (saltwater) I only used tinned copper wire and there were many places where soldering was impossible. But where possible I'd solder especially the nav lights at the top of the mast.

 

[Hood]

In my boat (saltwater) I only used tinned copper wire and there were many places where soldering was impossible. But where possible I'd solder especially the nav lights at the top of the mast.

All wiring on new build fishing boats has to be tinned, has been the rules for a good while now
Regarding solder, yes small wires such as nave etc I do by soldering then adhesive heat shrink tube. I think they do fine because they don't have the mass to cause issues with vibration and flexing but for the heavy power cables I have found the crimped tube lugs to be the best.

 

[8ob]

Am I the only one thinking Anderson couplings

800 × 600

 

[James1979]

Am I the only one thinking Anderson couplings

800 × 600

But do you crimp or solder the terminals?

 

[minimutly]

The crimp/solder is an age old argument. But the answer isn't simple. If you can reduce the solder creep to minimum, stop any movement, seal it up (glued heatshrink is good I think), then solder would seem to be better. If any of the above is missing then I would crimp. And then silicon grease the interface and heatshrink.
Just my two pennoth.